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My Towbar Torment

67K views 158 replies 39 participants last post by  Andy Touareg  
#1 ·
This is my first post, so I thought I should make it a good one. I took delivery of a MY13 Touareg TDI in February of this year. Like many people on this forum, my preference was for a Hayman Reese towbar rather than the VW OEM.

I know the towbar job involved removing the bumper from the car and internal trim, so I was reluctant to hand the vehicle over to just anyone. A few people I know had problems with local installers. One in particular damaged paintwork on the bumper and didn’t refit it properly.

To cut a long story short, I thought I would bite the bullet and do the job myself.

What a job turned out to be. The towbar job on the Touareg turned out to be a marathon.

The first job was to remove the bumper bar. This was relatively straight forward, but I cringed when pulling off the wheel arch trims.

When I was ready, my wife helped me remove the bumper and we rested it on a blanket. I removed the existing cross bar and bolted the new towbar on.

Now the hard part. To fit the lighting “ECU” module required the removal of the trim from the back of the car. The instructions from Hayman Reese were difficult to make out, so I had to take the job slowly. Removing the C panel covers was the hardest job of all. As with all panel removal, a lot of force is required, but there is always the chance that something will break. I used special plastic panel removal tools and my fingers.

It took me quite a while, but I finally had the panels on the left side removed.

I found the wire for the left indicator and connected it to the Hayman Reese harness using and ezy-tap.

I removed the RHS trim and found the wires I was looking for. Because I was also fitting a brake controller and 12V “hot wire”, I had the added complication of adding a 6mm cable for the earth and running a 6mm 12v positive cable as well as a 6mm brake control cable. The extra thick wires, made wiring the plug a bit of a challenge. I probably should have gone for a 12 pin flat plug, rather than the 7.

I spent the afternoon making the cut out in the bumper for the towbar and refitting it, as well as refitting the interior trim on the LHS. I had particular trouble with a “scrivet” and I had to remove the panel a number of times to retrieve a tool or the scrivet itself that had been accidentally dropped.

I then set about fitting the brake controller, which was time consuming, but with the trim already removed, a relatively easy job.

I tested the function of all of the lights with a multi meter and all checked out well.

I was disappointed that after refitting the trim that C pillar trims don’t seem to fit as well. I will ask the dealer to replace the metal spring clips when I take the car in for a service.

I backed the Touareg down the drive and plugged the boat trailer in. A neighbour was over by this stage and he confirmed that everything was working.

I fitted the towbar ball and hooked the boat up and towed it out. The towbar was at the perfect height , with the car in “normal” suspension height.

The car looked great with the boat attached. Nice and level. I was also very happy to find that the tail gate opened and cleared the bow of the boat. (just!)

I took the car for a drive. It pulled the boat brilliantly, which I was excited about, but my excitement was soon tempered when the brake controller (Tekonsha P3) started playing up. The display voltage was all over the place.

I had a look at the patch cable that joins the car to the trailer.

All seemed OK, but when I plugged it back in, the controller worked properly.

This is when the fun really begins!

I took the boat out the following weekend for another test drive. Each time I connect the trailer, everything is OK for about 2 minutes but then a problem arises. When I put my foot on the brake, the brake lights start flickering. When I fitted the brake controller, I took the brake signal required by the controller from the brake wire that goes to the 7 pin socket. (i.e. it's from the module, not from the car). After towing the boat for 2 minutes or so, the electric brakes go on and off with the brake lamp signal.

At one stage I pulled over and I had the left indicator on. I noticed the left indicator too was flickering.

I have done a heap of things to get to the bottom of this problem. I had to remove the interior trim again and replaced all of the ezy taps with soldered connections. I have supplied 12V to the module directly from the fuse panel. The earth of the module goes to an earth stud in the vehicle.

The boat trailer has LED lamps. I have heard that LEDs can be a problem, so I ran a test with normal incandescent lamps. That made no difference and the problem still existed.

I thought the Hayman Reese 4834 module itself may be faulty and All Vehicle Accessories, Campbellfield were fantastic and offered me a change-over. I thought that had solved the problem, but sure enough after driving for a couple of minutes, the problem re-appeared.

To make things a bit easier to diagnose, I fitted a relay under the dash that comes on when the brake pedal is pressed. It takes its signal from the red brake wire coming out of the module. (The same signal used for the brake controller). I can hear a "click" every time I put my foot on the brake.

So with nothing connected to the car, I can drive for 1 minute or so and each time I put my foot on the brake I hear a click. After a 2 and a half minutes, instead of hearing a single click, I hear several, as the brake signal continually goes on and off. At this stage, I remove the module in case I am risking damage to the car's electrics, or the module itself.

Given that everything is fine for the first couple of minutes, I was thinking that it may be something to do with the car's software

To understand a bit more about exactly what was going on I connected the Touareg to the boat trailer without the engine running. All lamps work as you would expect.

If I start the engine of the car, and put a brick on the brake pedal and leave the hazard lights on, the brake lamps and both indicators will start flickering after 2 and a half minutes.

I measured the voltage from the brake/tail lamp wire from the car. The one that goes into the module. It too started to fluctuate.

For whatever reason, the car decides to send some sort of signal through the wiring after it has been running for 2 minutes. It would appear that the Hayman Reese module can't cope with this signal.

It’s interesting to note, that if I didn’t have a brake controller with a display, I would not know this problem existed, because everything works fine when you first connect the trailer and check that everything works.

At this stage I concluded that the problem couldn’t be related to anything I had done and I contacted Hayman Reese technical support.

Hayman Reese were very good and were keen to look at the vehicle in case the 2013 model was in some way different to the '11 and '12. I had a technical guy visit today and he changed the module from the 4834 to the 4838. The problem seems to be fixed! (I still need to try out the brake controller though)
I would recommend that if you own a 2013 Touareg with Hayman Reese module that you connect your trailer, start the engine, put a brick on the brake pedal and turn the hazard lamps on. You may find that the trailer lamps flicker after 3 minutes or so. If this is the case, it would appear that a different module is required.
So if I had my time again, I would never have attempted the job myself. Too stressful!!
 
#2 ·
assuming it is not the module...... and not anything to do with L.E.D lights

a electrical issue 'over time' seems to be a heat related problem with a connection, that is a connection (earth?) somewhere fails due to a poor connection or load issue (or both)
 
#4 ·
No not possible...........
 
#5 ·
Sorry to say, but this seems to just reinforce the fact that you can be " penny wise, and pound foolish" if you try to scrimp on these cars by installing aftermarket tow packages, instead of the properly designed and integrated factory units,. All these headaches, the potential for damaging your vehicle, and you loose the two rated recovery points at the rear. Ouch....
 
#6 ·
It's not a matter of penny pinching. The choice of the aftermarket bar in Australia is usually driven by the fact that the VW offering has a brain dead vertical receiver that is not compatible with standard towing accessories.

The loss of the recovery points is not a big issue for most people. There is only one recovery eye in the car's kit anyway.

Actually, it would be interesting if someone with an OZ VW OEM bar could confirm that the recovery points are actually on it.
 
#9 ·
It's not a matter of penny pinching. The choice of the aftermarket bar in Australia is usually driven by the fact that the VW offering has a brain dead vertical receiver that is not compatible with standard towing accessories.
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+1 - Why on earth release a car with a 3.5ton towing capacity with such a stupid (European, vertical) design?
They have upgraded the specifications for the Aus model (although I am a bit dubious how they have done that - all I see is a simple doubling of the ball weight limit from the UK/Europe 140kg to 280kg) and here we are 2.5yrs down the track since it's release and still no decent tow bar suitable for local accessories…

VW have told me there will be a revised tow-bar with horizontal hitch (probably the same HR unit most of us have had fitted) sometime this year but they have no idea when it will be available… :(
 
#7 ·
I guess thats why people using H/R tow bars are using VW electronics its all plug and play the right hand side interior trim dosent need to be removed you only need to remove the plastic panel in the centre of the trim itself your brake wire for the brake unit needs to come off the brake light or the trailer plug the abs system plays havoc with the electric brake controllers
Colin
Mine has its recovery points but mine is the 2010 bar with horizontal hitch
 
#8 ·
First up I have to say I admire you for taking on such a complex job yourself! Sheesh…
BUT, sadly you have found out the hard way just how complex these bloody cars are and why most of us will just go with the VW rip-off price for peace of mind etc.
I had a HR bar fitted by a (recommended by VW due to there crummy official tow bar offering here) pro and then got VW to do the wiring and integration. After that I had to take it to a local caravan expert to get the 2 hot-wires and 12 pin plug fitted to tow my particular caravan!
So all up three different shops have had my Treg pulled apart and I have to say that each time I felt very wary of leaving it and what would they manage to screw up and damage… :(
Lucky for me they all seemed to know what they were doing - everything *seems* to work and no damage done or badly fitted panels etc - phew! BUT! total cost well over $2000! Approx $2200 all up… :(

Back to your problem - I *think* it is related to the way the on-board computer keeps it's eye on the cars (and trailers) lights - every lamp that is monitored is fed with a strange kind of high frequency pulse on top of the normal 12v that lights the lamp - somehow the CPU can detect a blown lamp this way. My guess is that this high frequency signal is applied a few mins after the car starts up (after all has settled down!) and the LEDS are giving a false sort of signal back to the CPU which is then confusing things in general…

Have you tried using the in-line load module that you can get from VW ($110) to use with trailers that have LED lamps? That *might* be worth a try…

Good luck to you - you deserve a bit of success. I must say I feel some concern for you though as VW Australia made it very clear to me that any unauthorised messing with the car's wiring would invalidate the warranty if it directly caused any damage etc etc.

Not much you can do now but hope and pray that non of the VW modules have been hit...
 
#10 ·
Because I was also fitting a brake controller and 12V “hot wire”, I had the added complication of adding a 6mm cable for the earth and running a 6mm 12v positive cable as well as a 6mm brake control cable. The extra thick wires, made wiring the plug a bit of a challenge. I probably should have gone for a 12 pin flat plug, rather than the 7.
This is another 'potential' problem (oops a bit of a pun there! :) )
Running a 6mm cable and then terminating it into an Aus standard 7 pin plug will not work very well (it won't be causing your flickering problem though) - those pins will not be capable of carrying the current required for your brakes and fridge - you need to use the heavier duty pins on the 12 pin plug or better still fit an Andersen plug...
 
#13 ·
Thanks Angry of Mayfair. I did manage to fit the cables to the socket, but I know that there is no way the the socket and plug can handle a high current. I don't tow anything currently (there's that pun again), that pulls a high load, but I ran the cables in case I do. I think I will fit an Anderson plug if that situation arises. At least the cables are already there.
 
#11 ·
Another thought - have you had VW adjust the numerous and necessary codes in the car's computer to tell it that it now has a tow-bar fitted?
It needs to be plugged in and connected to the VW mainframe in Germany to be properly programmed...
 
#12 ·
Thanks for all of your input. I know my post was way too long, but some of you missed the important point at the bottom where I explained that the problem has actually been resolved. Hayman Reese have developed a new module that has fixed the problem. They experienced the same issues with a current model Passat. They believe that the "pulse width modulation" of the signals going through the wires is different with this car.
One of the points that I was trying to get across was that I expect that there are 2013 model Touaregs out there with Hayman Reese modules that have this problem, but unless they have electric brakes it is unlikely they would be aware of the problem. After all, who checks their trailer lights after the engine has been running for 3 minutes?
As c4ar says, the purchase of the Hayman Reese towbar was nothing to do with penny pinching. I would have gladly ordered the car with a VW towbar if the receiver was horizontal. The VW bar was way too low for my requirements. I have had a number of new cars over the years and have always ordered the original equipment towbar. Having said all of that, the towbar, module and brake controller install cost me $900, so I am ahead!
I did enquire about having the VW module fitted at a dealer but I genuinely struggled to find anyone who knew what they were talking about.
So to finish up, I have a neat towbar installation and the electronics now work. My issue was the pain it took to get to this stage.
 
#15 ·
As c4ar says, the purchase of the Hayman Reese towbar was nothing to do with penny pinching. I would have gladly ordered the car with a VW towbar if the receiver was horizontal. The VW bar was way too low for my requirements. I have had a number of new cars over the years and have always ordered the original equipment towbar. Having said all of that, the towbar, module and brake controller install cost me $900, so I am ahead!
The problem that we who have HR tow bars fitted is that the tow-ball is now a good deal higher than the original specifications printed in the manual.
This (in general) suits us for what we tow BUT I wonder if we have now violated the vehicle towing specifications in the case of warranty claims etc?
(Then again, WV Aust actually advised me to see HR for fitting a horizontal hitch)
To be honest if I had known what a nightmare all this ridiculous situation is regarding VW Aus tow-bars I would have avoided this brand all together and gone for something far simpler from Toyota or similar...
 
#14 ·
Sorry for the earlier comment, I didn't realize that VW in Aus apparently will not provide the factory Westphalia horizontal hitch, nor the appropriate towing modules to its customers.
 
#17 ·
Thanks for the reply, agree in general.
When I mentioned VW honouring warranty claims I didn't mean direct problems with the HR towbar, more along the lines of damage to the rest of the car chassis/mounting points etc due to the out of spec height - a worst possible scenario being a caravan becoming detached and causing an accident - could VW or the insurance company say there is no cover/warranty repair due to HR towbar not being exactly within VW specifications?
Or am I just being paranoid? It's just that VW and insurance companies seem to be so focussed on all work being done within specifications - I hate dealing with both… :(
 
#18 ·
I'm sure that VW or an insurance company would explore every avenue possible to get out of paying a claim. I don't think you're being paranoid there.

Regarding the likelyhood of chassis damage or a caravan becoming detached from the car during normal use, I think the risk of that happening is low.

I see you have a 2011 model. If your manual is the same as mine, it will have a maximum ball weight of 140 kg specified. This was revised to 280 kg in later manuals. After 3 attempts I haven't been able to get a letter or addendum for my manual to correct this. So if I tow with a ball weight over 140 kg I'm operating out of specifications. There are other statements in the manual that make it virtually impossible to be compliant, like "do not tow a trailer with LED tail lights, it may damage the car's sensitive electronics". It's hard to take a document like this seriously.
 
#19 ·
I see you have a 2011 model. If your manual is the same as mine, it will have a maximum ball weight of 140 kg specified. This was revised to 280 kg in later manuals. After 3 attempts I haven't been able to get a letter or addendum for my manual to correct this.
My manual (Europe edition 05.2011) quotes the Australian 'Drawbar Load' as 280kg, exactly double the UK/European specs of 140kg - makes you wonder how they arrived at that figure and what they did to the body to make it cope with double the European ball-weight eh….

Let me know if you would like a scan of the relevant page
 
#23 ·
Man this forum is great. I just had to mention it and minutes later I had a hard copy in my hand :p
:) Perhaps VW Aus are watching us all - the recent word from HO was to be more customer focussed - where better to find disgruntled VW owners… :)

That reminds me - do we down under have anything similar to a Touareg direct/premium support help line like they have in the US?
 
#24 ·
:smile: Perhaps VW Aus are watching us all - the recent word from HO was to be more customer focussed - where better to find disgruntled VW owners… :smile:
Wish it were true. Actually the page was delivered by another forum member.

That reminds me - do we down under have anything similar to a Touareg direct/premium support help line like they have in the US?
If they do they're keeping it quiet.
The customer support line I rang about the issue with my manual just wanted to send out a tow truck. I declined the offer. :-s
 
#26 ·
ok so after reading this and other thread on installing a hitch to a non-trailer package truck. everyone is thinking they are saving money and beating the system, but are you really?... are you fitting new springs, shocks, as well as breaks and coolers for trans and engine? this is part of the vw factory hitch...
So from VW.com: Maximum 7,700 lbs. (braked weight) towing capacity requires optional factory-installed towing package. Maximum towing capacity of 1,650 lbs. (unbraked weight) without factory-installed towing package. See owner’s manual for details.
IMO as far as warinty is concerned if you have a non tow package treg and you install your own hitch and tow beyond your NON-towpackage specs they could void your warinty and insurance company (other drivers) could come after you for negligence and over loading your vehicle if you crash...
 
#27 ·
.
So from VW.com: Maximum 7,700 lbs. (braked weight) towing capacity requires optional factory-installed towing package. Maximum towing capacity of 1,650 lbs. (unbraked weight) without factory-installed towing package. See owner’s manual for details.
It says nothing of the sort in my owner's manual...
 
#29 · (Edited)
FYI, My 2007 T2 has a factory hitch (Westphalia?) with a horizontal 50mm square receiver. Rear tow points are not affected. The car was prewired for a brake controller and I fitted a Tekonsha Prodigy P2 myself. Like the HR, these also get confused by the test signal in the red wire. I masked the test signal from the controller with a simple relay. (The test signal doesn't t close the relay and the P2 sees either zero or 12V). Not withstanding the cost of a new controller after I reversed the polarity and fried my first unit (why is the negative wire white?), it was cheaper than an auto electrician. The VW resistor pack that I needed to overcome the LED trailer lights was about $220 and this is mounted on the trailer, not the T'reg.
 
#31 ·
That's great to hear. I actually asked ARB for a quote when I was shopping around and they weren't interested. You must have gone to a different location.
Have you tested the trailer lights with the engine running with a brick on the brake pedal for 3 minutes? If it passes that test, then you should will be OK.:D
 
#32 ·
Finally got to try ours out for 6 days on the east coast we went from Merimbula to cann river and back this part of the highway is the hilliest around here and had no problems maintaining 90/100 Kph and averaged 13 Lts per 100 Kms i am stunned at how good these things are our van is 22 Ft long and around 3000 Kgs it was no effort for the Tregg at all hopefully we get some more time soon we got the 2010 VW horizontal hitch fitted to ours thinking we would need WDH but the front of the car raised about 5/10 Mm so no WDH required all handelled great.
Colin
 
#33 ·
Great Colin, nice to see you're enjoying the Treg.

They make a sensational towing package.

BTW, where did you take the pic?
 
#34 ·
Hello Colin,
I am about to receive my 4 X Motion, and very interested in your setup. Like you I also tow a caravan and always used a WDH. I was going to use a Hayman Reece bar, but they don't have a proper trailer connection and with the VW TOUAREG only the genuine loom will do the job. So I am faced with having the factory bar. Maybe you can let me know your setup. Like.. Your model, year, airbags? Maybe some photos of the hitch connection. PS, I think the photo was taken at Eden.
 
#35 ·
Thanks Stevie the Photo is at quarantine bay eden

Johannes Mine is a 4motion no air bags as stated i have the 2010 vw bar fitted with current model vw electronics installed with an adjustable H/R hitch several people here have had a hayman reece fitted and then had vw electronics installed i dont like the H/R bar because you have to cutout the rear panel on the car but thats my personel opinion. i will try and post some photos of the hitch tonight
Colin
 
#36 ·
Thanks Stevie the Photo is at quarantine bay eden

Johannes Mine is a 4motion no air bags as stated i have the 2010 vw bar fitted with current model vw electronics installed with an adjustable H/R hitch several people here have had a hayman reece fitted and then had vw electronics installed i dont like the H/R bar because you have to cutout the rear panel on the car but thats my personel opinion. i will try and post some photos of the hitch tonight
Colin
2010 VW Tow bar
Adjustable H/R Hitch
 
#37 ·
Thanks Colin, for the fotos just the thing I want to do. Can't do that with the genuine bar on the MY 13.5, luckily found a VW Dealer that will fit a Hayman Reece bar and genuine VW electrics. I have to stress the importance of fitting genuine electrics as they communicate with the vehicle, once the trailer /caravan is attached and actually makes adjustments via the CPU to the engine, ride height, transmission and a host of other things. So anyone fitting a tow bar, be aware don't let anyone convince you that there module do the job
 
#43 ·
Hi Johannes. It would seem that your contact at Hayman Reece doesn't have the full picture. I am now successfully towing with an HR towbar and electrics with a MY13 model Touareg. It's important to note though that you need a different HR module to previous years. The module required for the MY13 is a 4838.