Thanks for that, it was a ripper read and good to know that you're doing all the right things and keeping it going.

Interested to hear further from you about the DPF plan if they become problematic.

Regards Pete.

 

Yep great to see from someone who intends to run the Treg Looong term as i intend to ... i hope 😕

 

I love the fact that you're keeping it going, and it's definitely not something that you see often, but it is costing you a lot and not many of us would "invest" that kind of coin to keep a unicorn alive..... I would strongly suggest doing all the wrenching yourself going forward to cut back on all those costs.

 

It was good to read that you hadn't yet done the camshaft replacement job which is read about on here often. Many V10s suffer from premature cam wear (
Pete

 

I'm actually quite surprised that the DPFs are still going.... and that his cylinder plasma coated sleeves are holding up

 

Yes, indeed Turbo ABA. It would be interesting hear from the OP to hear of what his driving habit is like, is it largely freeway or city driving or a mix, towing lots or whatever and confirm which oil used.

 

Thanks for the interest. Most of mileage is highway driving. Not much towing, maybe 3000 miles. I hope I will avoid any camshaft replacement I have been doing oil changes, disc and break pad and some other simple jobs. Does anyone know if the turbo electronics is replaceable? I have been using oil from dealership, nothing else. Looks now they switched to Mobile 1 from Castrol oil.
For last 5000 miles I have used 2 bottles of DPF additive in gas tank and the regen smoke has been around very few times. Best

 

Hi Areg, thanks for the update there. I am curious about the DPF additive in the gas tank. I have a 2009 V10 (R50) and it has a separate reservoir for the DPF regen fluid - an expensive fluid (not to be confused with Adblue fluid - it is not the same stuff even though my local VW dealership tried to tell me it was!). VW Part number is G052 143 A2. There are some alternatives out there (Ford and Peugeot I've read) but it was ~$250AUD per litre for the VW stuff when I checked earlier this year! It lasts a long time ~70,000kms for a full reservoir and my car had been filled just before I bought mine so good for some time yet.

Does the 2006 V10 have this same system for regen fluid? Not sure.

The article here may provide some further insight.

DPF additive

Pete.

 

Hi Crispy. My 2006 model doesn't have any reservoir. The computer senses how much buildup is in DPFs, and it starts regen cycle. For a minute or two it shoots heavy smoke and people behind me for several occasions told me that my car is on fire This is the additive I started using: Amazon.com: AUTOPROFI DPF Clean (for Diesel Particulate Filters): Automotive
I guess it just burns some additional crap in the dpfs. I am glad that mine doesn't have the extra German engineering that yours has.

 

Hi Crispy. My 2006 model doesn't have any reservoir. The computer senses how much buildup is in DPFs, and it starts regen cycle. For a minute or two it shoots heavy smoke and people behind me for several occasions told me that my car is on fire This is the additive I started using: Amazon.com: AUTOPROFI DPF Clean (for Diesel Particulate Filters): Automotive
I guess it just burns some additional crap in the dpfs. I am glad that mine doesn't have the extra German engineering that yours has.

Is it OK to use this DPF clean with diesel that already has an additive like stanadyne advanced performance?

 

Right, I see thanks for that. I think maybe around 2008 with a shift in Euro emissions standards was introduced was when the altered regen system (with reservoir) was introduced. I am glad that the additive that you're using seems to work for you.

I would be seriously considering a DPF delete if/when they give me any trouble - for now they're behaving and the occasional tow of the heavy caravan will get it well hot to do a proper burn off regeneration.

Pete.

 

Hope DPFs will last for a while

 

OMG... Discussing deletes on this forum.... Hide before the gods notice

 

thanks;-)

 

Just saying... There is a huge difference in between deleting a dpf at a quarter of a million miles for a failed filter and just taking a working dpf off at 40,000 miles cause you want the 0.25% of hp added back.

Please to keep us updated on the entire vehicle. Many of us want to see how far this one can go. Personally it would be wonderful to see over half a million.

 

Just saying... There is a huge difference in between deleting a dpf at a quarter of a million miles for a failed filter and just taking a working dpf off at 40,000 miles cause you want the 0.25% of hp added back.

I'll be deleting my 2L TDI once the emissions warranty is up for the MPG gains and failure\complexity reduction, and probably looking to do the same to the 3L TDI once it reaches that threshold as well..... but I won't mention it here... I get in enough trouble already around here

 

Exactly which oil - grade and spec - have you been using?

 

Hi there, I have been using Castrol 5-30, LL03 oil, what was sold by dealerships - at around $10/quart. Now they say they only have 0-30 Mobile One that replaces the previous oil. Still have to do some research before deciding what to use. I got that 0-30 for my 2012 Jetta Sportwagen tdi, but still reluctant to use it in the Touareg.

 

Thanks for that info, the important spec for oil in the V10 is the 507.00 part, if you have DPF fitted. The oil you stated is correct for your car and meets that spec.

Pete.

 

I just checked on Castrol oil can that I have in the back of vehicle, yes it is, 5-30 LL03, VW 507.0 spec. It is confusing to get the new oil that is 0-30 replacing the old one. It went from 5-40 to 5-30 to 0-30...

 

Thank you Areg for posting this. We love our 07 V10. I bought it about 4 years ago with 107k on the clock. It was perfect and the turbo's had just been replaced. I have every record since new. It was the featured car at the VW display at the Cleveland auto show. Sticker price was $72k. We mostly use it to tow our 1967 Airstream that only weighs 3500#'s. Now it has 147k and so far I have replaced the front air shocks. Oil was changed today I use Motul Specific 5/40 with a VW filter. We were in Hamilton Montana when I discovered a major leak and it was from the O ring in the oil filter canister. Big scare but we fixed it. I'm told that this is not uncommon with after market filters. It was a Mann. Today I learned that I need to replace the particle canisters which are $1500 each ( 2 ) and they need to be replaced every 120k. It's such a wonderful vehicle I hope to get 500k out of it.

 

Hi Vanster, great to hear that you have it and love it. Particle Canister = DPF ?? Once I forget to remove the oil filter ring and on top of it added the new one, for few days oil leakage under car started getting troublesome looking, took to a shop and they discovered double rings. Mine only is lacking the TPMS in the wheels, that I am glad not to have. The sticker was 70k, on February 11th, 2007 in Woodland Hills VW, and they had 15k off the sticker sign, so I got it ....

 

There is no such thing as "the DPFs must be replaced every 120K."

Explain the background to what's going on with your car that's led to the dealer making the statement.

As for oil, keep using the grade and spec originally stated for your engine.

 

I would like to know more info on the DPF. I had the oil changed at my local VW/Audi shop in Berkeley. They are 100% VW nerds. They were the ones that told me that I needed to change them. I have no other reference. Any help would be appreciated. The work has not been done yet.

 

I have a 2007 VW maintenance schedule by miles chart from VW. It states that at 120,000 miles "Diesel Particle Filter: Replace ( 5.0L TDI only) 120,000 miles

 

If the DPFs are still doing their job, why would you change them?

It's not as if they are a wear component like a timing belt that should be changed at a specified mileage or time period where failure to do so can result in a catastrophic failure as in the early Touareg V8s.

 

I fully understand where you are going with this . 90% of the usage with this car is "boondocking" as well as hauling our Airstream. If per chance they clog up and suddenly I have a marginal running car out in the middle of where ever and finding replacements and someone to replace them doesn't appear to me like fun adventure. I also have a completely restored Porsche 928 and I have a feel for being pro active with things like belts etc. I'm not thrilled with spending $3500 on something like this but I don't believe I have an alternative. If someone could weigh in on what happens when they do fail it would be good to know.

 

I have 257k miles now and DPFs still going. Once I got bad diesel, and light came up, the car went into half limp mode (was like when it was running on 1 turbo) with check engine and DPF lights intermittently blinking, and was smoking for 30-40 miles. Got to Steambot Springs, stopped at car part store to grab some extra oil, in case I needed it. After restarting it started driving fine, only DPF light was on, no smoke. Drove that tank as far as I could and after refueling DPF light went off. The check engine light was Turbo Underboost code, that I attributed to bad fuel. This happened after turbos were replaced, about 24k miles ago. I guess the regeneration cleaned up DPFs and they were back to running mode. Vanster, if you have gut filling that you need to replace it, then go ahead and do it. Good luck