How do I remove this white connector for the headlights, so I can repair the wiring?

Thanks

Ha. Best option is to do what I did.. I made sure to my best ability that the wires weren't touching and applied spray or brush on wire insulator. It's like the black tape but liquid.

 

How do I remove this white connector for the headlights, so I can repair the wiring?

View attachment 146505

Thanks

What did you end up doing?
I'm facing the same problem myself.

What I'm doing is cutting the bare wires and slipping shrink tube over it then rejoining the wire.
When I do the other side I'd prefer to take the plug out.

 

From memory I thought that the white wiring block could simply be slid upwards to release it after you have removed the headlight unit from the car?

 

does it have the plastic retainer clip, mine was purple. pushed it over a bit and then insert tool into other side and the wire-end comes out.
I believe some are different? I used silicon insulated wires soldered to the old ends.

 

I tried pulling and pushing that white block in all directions, I couldn't see anything that looked like a clip.
I saw the purple thing but couldn't move it any direction. I read somewhere that it was to retain the wires in the connector.

I was just so afraid of breaking something.

I didn't see anything that looked like that hairclip either.

 

This is what I plan to do on the other side, hopefully the insulation won't be so broken up as i haven't been messing around on that side.

I've got some 2 part polyurethane I bought to make engine mounts for my son's Lancer.
I made 3 engine mounts and the stuff cost about the same as one engine mount and I've got plenty left.

I'm hoping the insulation isn't too ragged so I can just paint this stuff on without having to worry about separating the wires.

 

i made the "hairpin clip" from an old windscreen wiper blade or such, you could probably use a hairpin?
painting seemed like it was going to be messy for me.

 

I had the "bend lights" "check Manual" fail come up on the MFD. So I checked the fuse - OK. Went to checked the bulbs. Wrong. This is when I noticed insulation falling off the wiring. Used insulation tape to get me back home. RH xenon ended up pointing at the left side of the road.

I then completely removed the internal harness as most of the insulation had fallen of due to "wear and tear" or so says VW!!

For each wire and one at a time, I then;

Removed all of the insulation that had not already fallen off;
Cut each wire in two;
Re-insulated each half with heat-shrink and shrunk it down;
Fed a 25mm piece of heat-shrink on one half;
Crimped the both halves together using crimps used for crimping fishing wire traces - smallest crimps I could find;
Fed the 25mm piece of heat-shrink over the crimp;
Shrunk the head-shrink.

My LH headlight is 100%. My RH is still pointing at the left gutter.

I get two fault codes

02628 - Right Swivel Module Position Sensor Faulty
static

and

01535 - Activation for right headlamp beam adjustment motor Open circuit/short circuit to B+
Intermittent

Am I stuck with failed insulation in the works or because of shorted out bare wires ?

 

I ended up gutting EVERYTHING. Projectors, wiring, everything. I redid my lights and they are working great. I sometimes get a headlight error message since none of the OEM parts are still there. But at least I can see. I added some nice drl accents as well. (Needs slight adjustment).

Projectors from The Retrofit Source. I recommend everyone do this if you have a chance. The Tregs original projectors are terrible and end up burning the inside bowl, so the only way you can improve output is retrofit. If you choose to do this, GOOD LUCK! This took forever and many many band aids.

 

Projectors from The Retrofit Source.

How did you get the original projector out?
The only way I can see is by removing the front clear lens, I don't really want to do that.

I've got a pair of Morimoto projectors that I just need to get ballasts and bulbs for.

 

Do the HID lens in these headlight swivel L/R?
If yes, is the bottom of the swivel unit open or enclosed?

 

Sorry Jim,

Mine do not pivot/swivel. I'll have to let someone else answer.

~ Junior

Sent from my SM-G360T1 using Tapatalk

 

To any and all, who have done the wiring harness....

Did you heat shrink that, doubled up, line? How? I can't seem to disconnect, from other/remote side of the connector. Obviously, I can get the main harness, disconnected. Just not the other end.

~ Junior

Sent from my SM-G360T1 using Tapatalk

 

Junior

As it was a pain to remove individual wires from connectors, this was my procedure for re-insulating the wires. I cut each wire (one at a time) and used a fishing trace ferrule to rejoin the wires.
The other problem is getting small heat shrink over the connector inserts.

Procedure is;
1. Removed all the insulation from the wires.
2. Cut one wire at mid point.
3. Determine the smallest diameter heat shrink and joining ferrule that will fit the wire 4. Determine the smallest diameter heat shrink that will fit over the joining ferrule.
5. Cut three lengths of the appropriate size heat shrink, two for the wire and one for the ferrule. The ones for the wire will need to allow the cut ends of the wire to protrude to allow crimping of the wire into the ferrule. The piece for the ferrule about 1"/25mm
6. Place the heat shrink on the wires, making sure that it goes down into the connectors.
7. Shrink the heat shrink to the wires.
8. Place the third piece of heat shrink for the ferrule on one wire.
9. Place the wires in the ferrule and crimp both wires. I used a crimp that left a "u" shaped indentation in the crimp. Test the crimping by pulling on the wires.
10. Move the third piece of heat shrink centrally over the ferrule and shrink.
11. Repeat by the number of wires in the harness.

The ferrules can be bought from any fishing tackle shop. I used the copper ones.

 

Thanks Jim,

I'm going to keep trying to disconnect them. Not saying your way doesn't work, but I would prefer to not cut the wiring. If I can avoid it.
But it is indeed, an option to consider.

~ Junior

Sent from my SM-G360T1 using Tapatalk

 

Did anyone ever figure out how to get the white connector out of the headlight housing? Going through this process now. Have the purple piece off but can’t figure out how to get the white connector out. If anyone has any information on this it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Figured out that the connector needs to be fed towards the outside of the light, with the rest of the wiring following through the hole. This seems to make perfect sense now (doh).

Knowing the wiring all goes out through the connector hole there are 4 tabs on the white connector. The hardest tab is right against the headlight housing. I used a mini standard screwdriver to get this one pushed in. For the rest I used picks. And I happened to break one of the tabs when trying to take the wiring out the wrong way hah.