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How do I remove this white connector for the headlights, so I can repair the wiring?

Cable management Electrical wiring Technology Electronics Electronic device


Thanks
 

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How do I remove this white connector for the headlights, so I can repair the wiring?

Thanks


Ha. Best option is to do what I did.. I made sure to my best ability that the wires weren't touching and applied spray or brush on wire insulator. It's like the black tape but liquid.
 

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From memory I thought that the white wiring block could simply be slid upwards to release it after you have removed the headlight unit from the car?
 

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does it have the plastic retainer clip, mine was purple. pushed it over a bit and then insert tool into other side and the wire-end comes out.
I believe some are different? I used silicon insulated wires soldered to the old ends.
 

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I tried pulling and pushing that white block in all directions, I couldn't see anything that looked like a clip.
I saw the purple thing but couldn't move it any direction. I read somewhere that it was to retain the wires in the connector.

I was just so afraid of breaking something.

I didn't see anything that looked like that hairclip either.
 

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This is what I plan to do on the other side, hopefully the insulation won't be so broken up as i haven't been messing around on that side.

I've got some 2 part polyurethane I bought to make engine mounts for my son's Lancer.
I made 3 engine mounts and the stuff cost about the same as one engine mount and I've got plenty left.

I'm hoping the insulation isn't too ragged so I can just paint this stuff on without having to worry about separating the wires.
 

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i made the "hairpin clip" from an old windscreen wiper blade or such, you could probably use a hairpin?
painting seemed like it was going to be messy for me.
 

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I had the "bend lights" "check Manual" fail come up on the MFD. So I checked the fuse - OK. Went to checked the bulbs. Wrong. This is when I noticed insulation falling off the wiring. Used insulation tape to get me back home. RH xenon ended up pointing at the left side of the road.

I then completely removed the internal harness as most of the insulation had fallen of due to "wear and tear" or so says VW!!

For each wire and one at a time, I then;

Removed all of the insulation that had not already fallen off;
Cut each wire in two;
Re-insulated each half with heat-shrink and shrunk it down;
Fed a 25mm piece of heat-shrink on one half;
Crimped the both halves together using crimps used for crimping fishing wire traces - smallest crimps I could find;
Fed the 25mm piece of heat-shrink over the crimp;
Shrunk the head-shrink.

My LH headlight is 100%. My RH is still pointing at the left gutter.

I get two fault codes

02628 - Right Swivel Module Position Sensor Faulty
static
and

01535 - Activation for right headlamp beam adjustment motor Open circuit/short circuit to B+
Intermittent
Am I stuck with failed insulation in the works or because of shorted out bare wires ?
 

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I ended up gutting EVERYTHING. Projectors, wiring, everything. I redid my lights and they are working great. I sometimes get a headlight error message since none of the OEM parts are still there. But at least I can see. I added some nice drl accents as well. (Needs slight adjustment).

Projectors from The Retrofit Source. I recommend everyone do this if you have a chance. The Tregs original projectors are terrible and end up burning the inside bowl, so the only way you can improve output is retrofit. If you choose to do this, GOOD LUCK! This took forever and many many band aids.
 

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Projectors from The Retrofit Source.
How did you get the original projector out?
The only way I can see is by removing the front clear lens, I don't really want to do that.

I've got a pair of Morimoto projectors that I just need to get ballasts and bulbs for.
 

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How did you get the original projector out?
The only way I can see is by removing the front clear lens, I don't really want to do that.

I've got a pair of Morimoto projectors that I just need to get ballasts and bulbs for.
Hey Flash,
Did you ever get that projector figured out?
If not, I can help.

~ Junior

Sent from my SM-G360T1 using Tapatalk
 

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Hey Flash,
Did you ever get that projector figured out?
If not, I can help.

~ Junior

Sent from my SM-G360T1 using Tapatalk
I haven't done it yet. I've been put off by having to cut the lens and glue it back on.
I've got a cutting tool and appropriate glue coming in the mail so I will get to it.

I have been running LEDs in H7 but they faded out - strange. I replaced them with the HIDs I had in before.
 

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I haven't done it yet. I've been put off by having to cut the lens and glue it back on.
I've got a cutting tool and appropriate glue coming in the mail so I will get to it.

I have been running LEDs in H7 but they faded out - strange. I replaced them with the HIDs I had in before.
No worries mate!

I am currently doing a set of headlights now. I can send you pictures, and help explain how I'm doing it. One unit is sitting, in about 12 pieces, waiting to be completed. Luckily for me, I'm in no hurry.

I also recommend, getting heat shrink for the wiring. I'm waiting for my order to arrive. I bought a 48"(121 cm) strip. That way I do not have multiple small pieces to line up, and irritate me when/if they shift around. And should be enough for both harnesses.

~ Junior


Sent from my SM-G360T1 using Tapatalk
 

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Do the HID lens in these headlight swivel L/R?
If yes, is the bottom of the swivel unit open or enclosed?
 

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No worries mate!

I am currently doing a set of headlights now. I can send you pictures, and help explain how I'm doing it. One unit is sitting, in about 12 pieces, waiting to be completed. Luckily for me, I'm in no hurry.

I also recommend, getting heat shrink for the wiring. I'm waiting for my order to arrive. I bought a 48"(121 cm) strip. That way I do not have multiple small pieces to line up, and irritate me when/if they shift around. And should be enough for both harnesses. Sent from my SM-G360T1 using Tapatalk
Any assistance is gratefully received.

I used a combination of PVA glue, UV cured resin and shrink tube in my lights. It seems to be working well.
 

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Any assistance is gratefully received.

I used a combination of PVA glue, UV cured resin and shrink tube in my lights. It seems to be working well.
I've never used PGA glue before, in fact this is the first I've heard of it. So I don't know how well it will work with the polycarbonate lens. I was planning on using RTV, as I have on my MK4 Jetta. Never had issues.

I haven't done any research on the UV coating, of the lens. It's still a long ways away, from where I am at on this project, and what I still have to do before I get there. I'll cross that bridge when I get there. I'm not rushing this project.

I am excited that I have removed the wiring harness, and am now able to shrink the individual wires! Just waiting for the right shrink, for the job, to arrive.

My help, at this point, is limited to headlight teardown. So post up questions, and I'll respond. As well as others, who are interested.

~ Junior

Sent from my SM-G360T1 using Tapatalk
 

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To any and all, who have done the wiring harness....

Did you heat shrink that, doubled up, line? How? I can't seem to disconnect, from other/remote side of the connector. Obviously, I can get the main harness, disconnected. Just not the other end.

~ Junior


Sent from my SM-G360T1 using Tapatalk
 

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Junior

As it was a pain to remove individual wires from connectors, this was my procedure for re-insulating the wires. I cut each wire (one at a time) and used a fishing trace ferrule to rejoin the wires.
The other problem is getting small heat shrink over the connector inserts.

Procedure is;
1. Removed all the insulation from the wires.
2. Cut one wire at mid point.
3. Determine the smallest diameter heat shrink and joining ferrule that will fit the wire 4. Determine the smallest diameter heat shrink that will fit over the joining ferrule.
5. Cut three lengths of the appropriate size heat shrink, two for the wire and one for the ferrule. The ones for the wire will need to allow the cut ends of the wire to protrude to allow crimping of the wire into the ferrule. The piece for the ferrule about 1"/25mm
6. Place the heat shrink on the wires, making sure that it goes down into the connectors.
7. Shrink the heat shrink to the wires.
8. Place the third piece of heat shrink for the ferrule on one wire.
9. Place the wires in the ferrule and crimp both wires. I used a crimp that left a "u" shaped indentation in the crimp. Test the crimping by pulling on the wires.
10. Move the third piece of heat shrink centrally over the ferrule and shrink.
11. Repeat by the number of wires in the harness.

The ferrules can be bought from any fishing tackle shop. I used the copper ones.
 
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