Club Touareg Forum banner

Info: 3.0L TDI Diesel EGR Cooler data

1 reading
7.3K views 24 replies 6 participants last post by  ToolmanJohn  
#1 · (Edited)
Currently, this pertains to my 2013 that im in the middle of doing the oil cooler seals on.

While I was in there, I noticed that the mid-section gasket on the EGR cooler had some coolant weeping. So I split the cooler and found a compromised gasket. Seemed like no issue to get the gasket, until it arrived.

This is part number 059-131-599-G pictured below, which is the exact image of the gasket I need.
Image

Which looks identical to this which is installed:
Image


BUT, the actual gasket that everyone stocks is actually this one here, which I received:
Image

Here is the actual housing of the small unit that the gasket fits
Image




By looking at ebay images and date codes, it seems that the early EGR coolers had this gasket, 2011ish. After 2012, they changed the cooler and its the new gasket that is pictured but not stocked.

Does anyone have any insight on this? I'm considering going with anaerobic sealer on the mating faces and disabling the EGR.
 
#2 ·
I've done a bit of research and came up with a lot of part numbers and revisions for these EGR coolers over the 3.0L engines. The gasket that is available for order is for the smaller cooler and the one that is not available is for the larger cooler.

The odd part is that the block actually has mounting holes for both the smaller cooler and the larger cooler. I'm wondering what engines had the smaller and what had the larger.

At the moment, im considering welding this unit together since im deleting the EGR anyway.
 
#3 ·
It's probably going to leak again even with sealant if you don't figure out and fix why it leaked. Could one of the surfaces be warped/non-flat? Usually these kind of gaskets are highly reusable, but once they leak they get pretty deformed or gouged and really need to be replaced. I think there is a lot of heat and pressure on this gasket. You may be able to fabricate a new gasket using the old one as a template, by cutting out material with an x-acto knife. Look for a sheet of "High Temperature Automotive Gasket Material" in the same thickness as your gasket, and also use anaerobic sealer.

Have you looked into ordering it directly from VW?
 
#4 ·
This engine is at 200K miles and the very slight weep is from right around the area where the exhaust goes through the cooler. I'm assuming from many many miles of heat cycling it finally gave up. Sadly, I tossed the old gasket and it's the metal style with a coating so not much to reuse. The welding would make this one unit and remove the ability to use the EGR.

From my research, it seems that both the larger and smaller EGR coolers were used widely in these Touareg engines. I'm trying to figure out what the year range if any that included either one. I don't beleive the larger cooler helped, as my intake was just as clogged as any other ive seen.
 
#6 ·
Bummer it's gone, so I guess this doesn't apply anymore, but I want to say this anyways: The guy that mentored me in VW diesel mechanics, says this type of metal gasket can be reused indefinately with a fresh coating of hylomar sealant each time. He even does this with steel head gaskets on VW diesels. The only thing that concerns me in this case is that, since it was already leaking, there is likely metal erosion on the gasket and/or sealing surfaces.
 
#7 ·
The seal was pretty bad, I found a cheap low mileage EGR cooler anyway, so I will probably just go that route. In the meantime, maybe I will keep an eye out for the smaller cooler with the serviceable gasket.

I'm still wondering when the cooler change came into play with these 3.0L engines across the platform.
 
#8 ·
Here is some information I have collected for part numbers on these EGR coolers throughout the models. Please note that this is my best guess on the bolt hole for the vacuum actuator that bolts on top of the cooler. Date codes are from units that I found with actual photos of the unit. The unit that I have in my 2013 is 059-131-515-DD, which is date coded for 2012.

Smaller coolers with available gasket:
059-131-515-BE: correct bolt hole(Date code 2010)
059-131-515-EH: correct bolt hole (Date code 2014, 2016)
059-131-515-EA: bolt hole needs drill and tap (Date code 2014)
059-131-515-BL: correct bolt hole, (Date code 2011)
059-131-515-DB: no bolt hole (Date code 2012)
059-131-515-CG: correct bolt hole, (Date code 2011, 2012)
059-131-515-FS: correct bolt hole
059-131-515-DQ: correct bolt hole (Date code 2011)

Larger coolers with no available gasket:
059-131-515-FJ: incorrect bolt hole (Date code 2016, 2017)
059-131-515-FP:
059-131-515-DR: correct bolt hole (Date code 2013)
059-131-515-DD: correct bolt hole (Date code 2012)
059-131-515-DN: incorrect bolt hole (Date code 2013)
 
#10 ·
Hi. Just found this thread. I am in the middle of doing my oil cooler seals, flange, shutoff valve etc, and want to replace this gasket (I have the matching one for my 2015 EGR cooler, luckily).

What I don't get is why they use this kind of seal, which is so thinly coated, and almost designed to start leaking. If I put Hylomar on both sides, will this work well?

Also, there's another seal at the far end of the cooler housing, not sure if this needs changing as well? Near number 6 in the attached image.
 

Attachments

#14 ·
What I don't get is why they use this kind of seal, which is so thinly coated, and almost designed to start leaking.
These gaskets are much more durable than fiber, etc. gaskets as long as both surfaces are smooth, flat, and clamped tightly. They can handle much higher heat and pressure, but cannot absorb as much movement, e.g. from parts warping. I would probably clean and reuse w/ hylomar if the old gasket didn't fail, if it did, you need to check the surface flatness and use a new gasket. If the rubber coating still looks good, you can even skip the hylomar likely. A used gasket that didn't fail is okay too.
 
#11 ·
I don’t think the sealant would stand up to the exhaust temps and that’s the issue. If it’s not leaking leave it or delete the EGR system. The other gasket is not available and shouldn’t need to be replaced as it doesn’t have the same heat cycles as the other one.
 
#12 · (Edited)
The recommendation is to replace this EGR seal when you do the valley job, as it is prone to start leaking. I now half wish I hadn't opened the EGR cooler unit, but now I must get the new one in and tight. VW dealer would just put the new one in dry without any sealant I believe. So in theory if I do the same it should work. If it doesn't get air tight under at least 1 bar, I will try Hylomar.
Hylomar is rated up to 250°C, I wonder if the EGR cooler can get much hotter than the coolant flowing through it which would be below boiling point of water.
 
#16 ·
Has anyone solved this riddle? I'm having the same issue. I need to replace the smaller gasket. I received the larger one. Keaton85, I'm a little confused by your info you posted.
I have a 059131515DD cooler that needs a smaller gasket like the blue one in post 1. I received the black one in post one. I don't even know how to order what I need??
 
#23 ·
Like I said above, a new gasket probably won't help anyways, it won't have leaked for no reason. If you can confirm the surfaces are clean and not warped, it should be possible to make or have made a custom gasket. Any company that makes custom MLS head gaskets for race cars should be able to do it. Although, it would probably be cheaper and easier to just swap to the other EGR you can get a gasket for.
 
#24 ·
A tisket a tasket, I need a gasket. Yeah me too.

Older thread, but still very much an issue I think. I am in the exact same situation. I Needed to quickly get the Touareg valley leaks fixed, and I did so by deleting the EGR cooler/valve altogether, new oil cooler, bypass kit. No more leaking.

However, I did want to refresh the seals on the EGR cooler itself. i ultrasonically cleaned it after disassembling, it looks great. The EGR cooler/valve was not leaking before removal. But the ultrasonic couldn't do a good job on the motorized valve without removing it from the main body. It is spotless now.

That damn metal gasket with the rubberized carbon coating is an issue! I do NOT want to reuse and old gasket that has been compressed. I thought I ordered the right one, and it was in fact the right part number according to Volkswagen diagrams for a 2013 CNRB, but it is the wrong shape. Can't seem to source the right one. Even using Google images searching throws the wrong part on the screen.

I am taking my entire EGR cooler valve to the local VW parts department and letting them take swing at it. They installed it a few years ago during a warranty repair of a bad coolant leak in the valley. They replaced everything, but did a poor job on torqueing bolts on the oil cooler and coolant circulation valve. Oil and coolant swimming pool.
 
#25 ·
Went to the VW parts counter fro assistance on finding the gasket. . It appears NOT to be sold as an individual part. For 2013-2016 TDI model years, if you have the EGR Cooler part # 059131515FP, you are out of luck, only the entire Cooler assembly complete with valve can be purchased. The Valve Housing gasket is not available individually.

The part in every VW parts diagram for 2013-2016 TDI, gasket @ 059131599G , is for a different EGR Cooler, not CNRB engine code. As far as the VW part guru could determine.

I am going to try contact aftermarket suppliers of the entire cooler assembly. like Febi Bilstein, to see if they can source just a gasket. Maybe I'll get lucky.