[Fonzi]

My Treg was missing a vacc. pod when I bought it, recently I got a replacement.

My arms are in great shape, but I was wondering how you could test them? I've read posts on different forums saying they need to rapidly go in when you start the car.

For me, when I start the car It goes in about 1/10. Just enough to see a little wrinkle in the pod.

Is there any tests you can do? It seems to do nothing revving it to about 3-4k rpm.

 

[Perry01]

The diaphragm (vacuum pod) is inflated by spring tension on the actuator arm and is deflated by vacuum generated by your motor. If you have good vacuum hoses your diaphragm should deflate when a vacuum is generated. If your actuator arms move freely, spring tension should inflate the diaphragm when no vacuum is present. This is assuming your diaphragm is not damaged.

Your solenoid valve which is the black box inline with the vacuum hose regulates the vacuum. If it is defective it may need replacement.

If the other diaphragm is working you can switch vacuum hoses around and see if it works.
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[wtfuzz]

I just fixed my seized changeover rods. They moved freely with little force before installing the springs, so I'm sure they're not binding. When I start it up both of them only move slightly off of the stops. It seems there isn't enough vacuum to overcome the springs. I can push on the vacuum pod with small force and the rods do move all the way.

Did you trace your vacuum pods not fully retracting to a vacuum leak?

 

[wtfuzz]

Found one of the pods has a hole in it. Picked up a mighty vac which quickly narrowed it down.

I'm attempting a repair with plasti dip right now (first coat drying) we'll see if it holds vacuum

 

[Fonzi]

I do have a vac leak. Plastidip should hold pretty well if enough coats are applied. When I start the car now they barely move in. Just enough to show a tiny wrinkles. My leak is somewhere in the secondary air injection which I don't know why it effects anything else.

 

[wtfuzz]

The plasti dipped pod is holding vacuum. Broke one of the plastic links as soon as it started up just ordered aluminum replacements from gruvenparts.

Do you have a vacuum pump? You should be able to isolate your leak. There is a single line supplying a vacuum through a T to both of the injection pump actuators on the back of each head. The electronic valve on the back of the fuel rail connects to them.

 

[wtfuzz]

There's also a vacuum reservoir in the front left bumper teed off of near the front of the left valve cover.

Pull the line from the T near the change over valves that runs across the fuel rail and pull vacuum. Shouldn't leak at all.

 

[Fonzi]

I have no idea what that is haha. Where could I get one? I think I just have a bad actuator whatever is operating the arms.

I need some new arms too but I can make them myself. Ill get my tech to look at it.

I just repaired my leak too. It was some plastic tube at the lowest part of the pass. air filter box. Anyone know what it goes too? I used some weird super glue infused silicone tape and it eliminated some of my idle shake and felt like I gained 20 hp.

If I still had the leak my CEL would come up in a few days.

Wonder if K&N (I think) filters would make the car breathe better.


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[wtfuzz]

I received new ball joint links from gruvenparts today. Very nice quality parts and look great too. My plasti dipped vacuum pod failed, so I've ordered two of these http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/ETC7150G.cfm as I've heard they're compatible. I'll update when I receive them.

 

[wtfuzz]

Vacuum pods arrived from roverparts.com

They are not exactly identical. The bracket that holds the ball is rotated about 45 degrees and the ball is centered along the diameter. Even if you could press the link arms onto the ball, it would bind.

I was able to rotate the bracket by gently squeezing the plastic clips and slightly pulling up on the bracket. This allows the plastic piece inside the pod to rotate on the rubber.

The offset of the ball laterally doesn't seem to matter as there is enough movement of the arms to allow smooth operation and no binding.

Here they are installed (one under vacuum with a mityvac)

The new pods also have springs in them. It requires the same amount of vacuum (20 in.Hg) to fully evacuate the pods vs the old ones

 

[wtfuzz]

And finally I have both changeovers working fully at idle.

 

[noobytoogy]

Cool fix. Well done.

 

[Fonzi]

How in the world did you fix it? Also, how many miles do you have?

 

[wtfuzz]

124k miles. Are you referring to how I fixed the seized rods or the actuators?

 

[Fonzi]

Wow. So all you did was get a new pod and rods?

 

[wtfuzz]

After unseizing the rods that run through the intake manifold with a puller and dremel, yes new pods for a land rover and new linkage arms from gruvenparts.

 

[Fonzi]

So you followed that post from the Audi forums? How hard was it to take everything apart and put it back together? http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=2801728

Did you notice a big difference after you completed this?

 

[wtfuzz]

I basically followed http://gruvenparts.com/website/diys/TREX_DIY.pdf

I used a puller (AST cam gear puller worked perfect). You'll need a small 2 jaw puller with low profile arms on it. There isn't a lot of clearance between the casing and the manifold.

The difference is very noticeable. Mine were stuck in first stage so I had normal low rpm torque. Now I have a lot more torque at higher rpm which is very noticeable especially on kickdown.

Overall it was a simple fix with the right tools.

 

[Perry01]

I basically followed http://gruvenparts.com/website/diys/TREX_DIY.pdf

I used a puller (AST cam gear puller worked perfect). You'll need a small 2 jaw puller with low profile arms on it. There isn't a lot of clearance between the casing and the manifold.

The difference is very noticeable. Mine were stuck in first stage so I had normal low rpm torque. Now I have a lot more torque at higher rpm which is very noticeable especially on kickdown.

Overall it was a simple fix with the right tools.

I did the same fix on my 2004 V8 and it had the same effect.
.

 

[d1rr0n]

The plasti dipped pod is holding vacuum. Broke one of the plastic links as soon as it started up just ordered aluminum replacements from gruvenparts.

Do you have a vacuum pump? You should be able to isolate your leak. There is a single line supplying a vacuum through a T to both of the injection pump actuators on the back of each head. The electronic valve on the back of the fuel rail connects to them.

Might you know the specific name of that T solenoid valve? Is it just the vacuum solenoid valve? I'm trying to find one online for a decent price, but don't want to order the wrong part. One of the nipples on mine broke.