Recently, my 04 V8 Touareg started making a squealing sound when driving down the road. It is more high pitched but not extremely loud either but still very audible. It doesnt make the sound for the first few minutes when you drive the car for the first time of the day, but starts after. It stops when the vehicle comes to a stop and changes pitch when pushing the gas pedal and letting off. Does anyone know what this might be? Also,it is not the fan for the a/c, I have ruled that out.
High pitch squealing noise when driving
touareg1234
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Recently, my 04 V8 Touareg started making a squealing sound when driving down the road. It is more high pitched but not extremely loud either but still very audible. It doesnt make the sound for the first few minutes when you drive the car for the first time of the day, but starts after. It stops when the vehicle comes to a stop and changes pitch when pushing the gas pedal and letting off. Does anyone know what this might be? Also,it is not the fan for the a/c, I have ruled that out.
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Quit scaring your kids. Drive nice till you drop them off.
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:-D:-D:-D that was great
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My AC/Heat fan made a high pitch sound for a few weeks this past summer sort of like what you describe, then one day it stoped. Have you changed your cabin filter? Maybe its dirty.
Other than that if its not the kids maybe its the wife. :confused2:
Other than that if its not the kids maybe its the wife. :confused2:
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This sounds identical to what our 04 V8 Touareg (with 66,000 miles) started doing just a few days ago. The squeal seems to come from the right front area, maybe inboard of the wheel/break assembly. Ours is the same, it doesn't make the sound for the first few minutes when you drive the car and it stops when the vehicle comes to a stop. I also can change the pitch by controlling how much load I put the engine under. The squeal also lets up when turning as wheel (pressure coming off of a bearing?). I am totally guessing but i think it might be a wheel bearing or a drive shaft (half shaft?) bearing. I wonder if anyone else has had this kind of problem and what the culprit was.
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could be your brakes are sticking a little or the discs are worn
Squeel Fix
I've researched this on my 2004 with 70k. Turns out it is the dust boot on the rear drive shaft bearing. My mechanic checked the bearing and it is good (sealed unit). We lubricated the dust boot with some lithium grease and the issue is resolved. You can do it in your driveway easily or have your mechanic do it at your oil changes. Hope this helps.
I've researched this on my 2004 with 70k. Turns out it is the dust boot on the rear drive shaft bearing. My mechanic checked the bearing and it is good (sealed unit). We lubricated the dust boot with some lithium grease and the issue is resolved. You can do it in your driveway easily or have your mechanic do it at your oil changes. Hope this helps.
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I talked to the dealership and they said the front driveshaft bearing was $25 but the labor was ~$425. I'll check out the dust boot. Thanks for the info. Makes more sense (and way less $$$s). More later.
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Had same issue, I swore it was coming from the passenger front brake. It turned out being the driveshaft. Was replaced under warranty.
My issue sounded the same until I had my wife drive by so I could listen. What burned me was it would happen 55°F or colder then stop. I heard it last winter, then it went away and came back this winter, but it would not go away on a warm day this time. I've noticed a lot of posts where people have the driveshaft replaced and the condition returns. My mechanics were a little concerned about how much heat the driveshaft picks up from the exhaust. That is probably what is causing the rubber boot to harden and squeal in cold weather.
Ditto! Driveshaft replaced under warranty.
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Hi, I am original owner of early VIN # 04 V8 and just came back from the dealer. He quoted $1740 to replace Right Rear drive shaft propeller. The described noise only became noticeable during the recent cold snap over the holidays. VWNA is challenging a power train warranty repair as I just crossed over at 60,130 miles. I am 1050 miles from home and not sure whether to risk the trip, add the miles or have it done locally. Any experience as to how long you can live with this noise before more damage is done? Any precedence as to how much tolerance VWNA gives on mileage? Any negotiating hints?
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I have not had our Treg's squeal looked at yet. We decided to park the Treg until we get a chance to take it in. Ours doesn't really seem to be temperature dependent, it would squeal at any time. Sometimes a 20 mile trip to work no squeal, then on the trip back home, the squeal doesn't start until 1/2 way home. Wish I had the proper tools to get the boots off and re-lube the bushings. The rear must be a heck of a task, the dealership quoted me ~$425 for labor an $25 for parts to replace the front drive shaft bushing.
Normally I keep every receipt, but the morning after I picked my car up from having the driveshaft and bearing/seal replaced, I was hit by a falling tree limb while driving to work. Some would say bad timing, but the car saved my life. I seem to have misplaced that receipt - it was most likely still in the car and with all the broken glass you can imagine what happened. Anyway, typically my warranty work only shows the # of hours billed to VW with no part prices. So I can't comment for sure on cost...but my recollection is they said parts were about $400, plus labor. However, you say right rear drive prop, which I believe is after the rear differential whereas mine was ahead of the rear differential (Same problem - i.e., drive shaft seal issue).Hi, I am original owner of early VIN # 04 V8 and just came back from the dealer. He quoted $1740 to replace Right Rear drive shaft propeller. The described noise only became noticeable during the recent cold snap over the holidays. VWNA is challenging a power train warranty repair as I just crossed over at 60,130 miles. I am 1050 miles from home and not sure whether to risk the trip, add the miles or have it done locally. Any experience as to how long you can live with this noise before more damage is done? Any precedence as to how much tolerance VWNA gives on mileage? Any negotiating hints?
I only put about 150 miles on my car from time I first heard it until replaced. Not sure if I would put the mileage (1000+) on to get it home. Based on the fact you are over 1000 miles from home and only 130 miles out of warranty, I would claim the problem happened en-route and you were in no position to stop immediately. Fix the car where it is, and tell them you expect to be treated fairly. Unlikely, the dealer would try to overcharge you knowing that your not going to roll over like a sheep to slaughter on the car being 130 miles out of warranty. VW's reputation isn't the best, but you never know. Chrysler paid 50% of transmission problem on a Jeep Grand Cherokee I owned with the car 2k miles out of warranty. The service advisor kind of slipped when he said "We see a lot of this problem." I think VW has seen a fair amount of this. Appeal to their good nature about taking care of a customer, because if they don't it will cost them more in the long run. Given the cost, if they refuse, tell them you'll see them in arbitration. Worth a try. Good luck.
I can only advise based on my issue. Mine was purely a rubber seal making noise on the rear drive shaft and there was no mechanical concern. You may want to have a local mechanic look at it that is not associated with VW, they can give you the straight word a lot of times. Best of luck with this issue.
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I had that high pitched squealing and when I was getting new tires at the 10k mark (another story) the mechanic said I needed brakes. I said "the light has not come on"..he said "lady you need new brakes". I drove right over to VW and needed new brakes and rotors and new sensors (why by new ones the others didnt work?) all to the tune of $800+. I was not a happy camper. They told me, when you replace your brakes you need to always have your rotors turned..hench the expense. IS THIS REALLY TRUE FOR A VW 05 Touareg??
Rotors being turned is a thing of the past, it is cheaper to replace the rotors than to turn them. For new brake pads to work and seat properly they do need a new flat surface to mate with, so you do need new rotors when getting new pads.
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