Hey guys, I am new here. I just picked up a problem child '05 v8 T1. I spent about 800$ in parts (timing belt, water pump, plugs, MAF sensors valve cover gaskets, filters oil etc...and others) it runs like a beast! Also, it has what sounds like a bad wheel bearing.

Does anyone know if the cheap Harbor Freight wheel bearing puller will work? Nothing against the 500$ tool from Pelican, its just I am a cheap a$$. I tried to search, for specifics, but all I could find was 'use a hydrolic press'

The Harbor Freight wheel bearing tool does not work! The cylinders of pipe desinged to be one end of the press are too small, so you will get the wheel bearing 1/2 out, and then the bearing will run into the cylinder of steel pipe, (because the steel pipe it too small, by a few mm) and you will be stuck. I wound up just buying a shop press and pressing the bearing out, like you are supposed to, and it was very satisfying! nothing like a 20 ton press effortlessly squeezing a wheel bearing out as opposed the cranking on a breaker bar with all your might...

OK, new question: there is a steady whoom- whoom- whoom speed dependant sound coming from the right front of the car. It sounds like a wheel bearing or a tire. I replaced the wheel bearing and switched the front tires, and it is still there. Could it be a bearing on the outside of the front diff? or maybe an axle shaft? anyone know?

 

Check the drive shaft support bearing. When mine started to go in my '04 it had that sound. When the bearing in my '08 went it was more like a thumping. If your bearing is shot don't get a new drive shaft. Just use the hose and cable straps. I did the shaft on my '04 and it was over $1,000.00. I did the tube n straps on the '08 and it was $5.00 and lasted at lasted the 8 years I owned it.

 

I was able to remove the front bearing on my T2 (same knuckle as T1) with the HF kit but had to take it to my neighbors shop to press the new bearing in. I did not try to freeze the bearing and heat the knuckle or might have been able to reinstall it myself.

 

All good stuff guys, after doing some research I am pretty sure the noise is from the front diff somewhere. I am just going to take it out and check the bearings, after all, I have a press now, so no more beating on bearings with a sledge hammer. I am almost sure the noise is from the front, not the middle of the car, ( I dont think it is either drive shaft, but I will check. ) and I have heard lots of bad news about the front diff carrier bearings...

 

Today I had the time to take the front differential out. it was a good four hours work at least, but not too difficult. upon taking the front diff apart, one carrier bearing (the ones just to the outside the differential housing) one was very bad, one was on its last legs. Also the pinion gear does have a teeny grinding feeling to it, but seems tight, and I am not sure if I should go ahead and change it as well...Anyone have any info on the pinion gear bearings? I know most of my research said the right side carrier bearing would be bad, and it is. Just wondering if I should change everything else.

 

A diff (front or rear) may be the only part of a vehicle I've never rebuilt. Some of that is due to a lack of necessity and some is due to what I consider to be a bit of a black art. The pinion gear needs just the right amount of backlash and if you don't get it right you can do more harm than good. At least that's my understanding.

I have no doubt with proper research it can be diy'ed but if it were mine I'd look for a pro to deal with that part of it due to the potential consequences of an error.

 

I agree about the black art of bearing crush sleeve tension, I have heard that from many people...

 

So I got the diff out and rebuilt. Everything fixed, no more whoob whoob whoob sound. It was the right side carrier bearing. It's the side on the stub shaft. I went ahead and replaced both for 100$. A couple things that might help people, careful when opening the front cover on the diff, there are two washers/spacers on either side of the carrier bearings, they should go back in the same place, they ultimately create the gap between the ring gear and pinion, and need to go back in the same side, because they are different thicknesses. In my case they were about .5mm different. Also, all the instructions and videos I saw said to basically unhook all the suspension parts, and drop the subframe. Well in my experience, on the left front of the car, you just need to remove the wheel, and 6 axle bolts on the inner flange. On the right front, you do have to unhook as many things as you need to get the fat side of the diff out. I hope this helps someone!