Other leads:
Evaps system (n80)
Fuel cap
Sorry to have hijacked your other thread
Do you have vcds. You need a vcds autscan to see if you have other codes.

 

Evaps system (n80) = PCV value right? i Changed that one for a new one.

Yep i hope a can do VCDS autoscan soon...

 

Nope. Evap is a different setup. The valve is on the passenger side. You can remove and check it.
Here is a link to have some info:

 

Nope. Evap is a different setup. The valve is on the passenger side. You can remove and check it.
Here is a link to have some info:

https://youtu.be/4IWzZzZb6B8

Did you read through my whole story? i cannot imagine it can be anything different than the fuel system. because i only get the lean condition if 1 pump is working. When both pumps are active no issues.

i think we are talking about the same thing no.. ? it is on the passenger side yes.

 

Remove and check it before getting a new one as it's a bit expensive and you don't want to be changing parts for the sake of changing parts.

Remove it, use a 12v source to test if it clicks and blocks air if you blow through it. It's number 21 in the diagram, located right behind the throttle body.

You really nead vcds and log the same data on both your touareg and your friend's touareg and compare.
You need to do advanced measuring block logging. Let me know when you get vcds and I will show you how.

You need to do an additional check of all the vacuum system.
Use a carburetor cleaner check.
Check the throttle body is sealed correctly by spraying carburetor cleaner and see if engine revs up.

 

Thanks :nerd:

You need to do an additional check of all the vacuum system.
Use a carburetor cleaner check.
Check the throttle body is sealed correctly by spraying carburetor cleaner and see if engine revs >> allready did these test and after this also a smoke test on the whole intake systeem >> no leaks

 

If you think it is the fuel system, why not check to see if the pumps are in spec?

 

If you think it is the fuel system, why not check to see if the pumps are in spec?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVBaH2jsPg4

Yep i also saw that vid. But i dont have that fancy fuel pressure equipment :wink2:

 

i also posted a reply on that video of @Edgemotors on youtube about this problem and his guess was also a dirty fuel filter.

 

If you are changing only the filter element, be very careful of the o-ring during reassembly. This does not apply if you purchased the entire fuel filter assembly.

Also, something else I have noticed. Those plastic fuel hoses inside the tank get brittle with age.

Try not to "stress" the old fuel lines when changing on the filter. No sharp bends, no hard pulls, etc and I think you will be fine.

 

i purchased the whole thing yes :wink2: thanks for the help.

 

And let us known how it goes. If you can take pics and give us some feedback that would be great. I might be looking at doing the filter refresh sometime in the not near future. Thanks.


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Off-course i will :wink2: hope i can do this next weekend if i receive it before then.

 

Read this thread. There are two methods to bypass the main pump and run on the secondary one. This will help you test your theory. There is also good info about changing the fuel pumps and filter there. You neef to empty your tank to make the job easy. Just drive it untill it dies some 400 km from home then flatbed it home to fix the pumps [emoji23]

https://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f43/stall-around-30-seconds-fuel-pump-43583.html#/topics/43583

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Allot to Read [emoji28] filter not in yet.. but i set up a small laptop with vcds now. Got IT working and tested on the Car. Worked like a charm. Much more errors than the handheld device i used [emoji3] misfires etc. Let me know about the test you wanted me to perform with vcds.

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You can post an autoscan so we can help with the errors and learn.
I'll give you some measuring blocks to test tomorrow. I have a doubt about the o2 sensors. For the moment if you can take a video of the variable intake change-over valve I talked about that would be great. Here is the ssp of this variable intake:
http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_212.pdf


To test the change over valve mouvement you need to:
1. Put the camera or phone near the valve.
2. start recording
2. Start the car
3. Rev the engine past 1200 rpm.
4. See how the arm moves up and down.

It should stay up under 1100 rpm and get pulled down above 1100 rpm.
When driving it should go up after 4400 rpm i think. But a stationary test will tell if it's


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I cant find the change-over valve. Do i need to remove stuff to get to it?? maybe you can take a picture/video on where to find it exactly.:nerd:

You can post an autoscan so we can help with the errors and learn.
I'll give you some measuring blocks to test tomorrow. I have a doubt about the o2 sensors. For the moment if you can take a video of the variable intake change-over valve I talked about that would be great. Here is the ssp of this variable intake:
http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_212.pdf


To test the change over valve mouvement you need to:
1. Put the camera or phone near the valve.
2. start recording
2. Start the car
3. Rev the engine past 1200 rpm.
4. See how the arm moves up and down.

It should stay up under 1100 rpm and get pulled down above 1100 rpm.
When driving it should go up after 4400 rpm i think. But a stationary test will tell if it's


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And here is the first list of measuring block:

By group:
Group 1 - Field 0 Group 39 - Field 0 Group 39 - Field 1 Group 39 - Field 2 Group 42 - Field 0 Group 42 - Field 2 Group 43 - Field 1 Group 44 - Field 1 Group 46 - Field 1 Group 46 - Field 2

Or by name in advanced measuring blocks.
Engine Speed
Mass Airflow
Bank 1 - Sensor Voltage
Bank 2 - Sensor Voltage
Bank 2 Sensor 1 - Heater Resistance
Bank 2 Sensor 2 - Heater Resistance
Bank 1 behind - CAT Temperature
Bank 2 behind - CAT Temperature

Thanks.

 

In yellow
The second pic is a golf R I think.
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...php?5769045-Variable-Resonance-Intake-Manifold-The-principles-behind-the-design

 

Ah found it at the back for the Touareg. hopefully will make that little video next tuesday.

 

Goood. Just remember.
- Under 1100 rpm no movement.
- between 1100 and 4000rpm the arm is pulled down
- above 4000 rpm the arm goes up.

You only need to test under and above 1100 rpm in a standstill position.
This part is also responsable for a rolling marbles noise you might hear if the bushings around the rod which is operated by the arm are worn.


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Goood. Just remember.
- Under 1100 rpm no movement. >>> when the car is cold its goes straight to that 1100 rpm right? should the arm go up again after the car is warmed up?

- between 1100 and 4000rpm the arm is pulled down
- above 4000 rpm the arm goes up.

You only need to test under and above 1100 rpm in a standstill position.
This part is also responsable for a rolling marbles noise you might hear if the bushings around the rod which is operated by the arm are worn.


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ill do this today after work.

 

Ow yes forget to mention it. Last weekend i changed the filter including the whole container. (what a job :frown2 did not realise i had to open up both sides of the fuelpump covers because a hose from the filter went to the other side :nerd:

Did not want to open the fuel filter housing so that was the only other alternative. It all looked so easy on the youtube vids on how to open everything up but it was a hassle to disconnect all the wires and fuel hoses under the covers. Some would just not come undone. After allot of patience it all worked out.

took me way too long (around 3 hours) and it was raining so i had to do it inside a very tight garage. So i could not even work from the outside. Also did not have a change to make video's.

was a big help..

My filter was never changed so it was very dirty. (opened it up to check afterwards).

filter change did not fix my running lean issue :frown2: i still suspect the main pump. bright side is that i know how to get to that now. So im planning to do this next weekend if i get the fuelpump in time.

 

[emoji106]


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In the meantime can you do that vcds test please. I suspect a dead sensor. It is showing the same value. Bank 2 heater resistance.


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i looked at this and thought.... how would i do this... do you have a link howto do this. i did a whole scan of the car allready is that enough? i have that in a log allready at home.

And here is the first list of measuring block:

By group:
Group 1 - Field 0 Group 39 - Field 0 Group 39 - Field 1 Group 39 - Field 2 Group 42 - Field 0 Group 42 - Field 2 Group 43 - Field 1 Group 44 - Field 1 Group 46 - Field 1 Group 46 - Field 2

Or by name in advanced measuring blocks.
Engine Speed
Mass Airflow
Bank 1 - Sensor Voltage
Bank 2 - Sensor Voltage
Bank 2 Sensor 1 - Heater Resistance
Bank 2 Sensor 2 - Heater Resistance
Bank 1 behind - CAT Temperature
Bank 2 behind - CAT Temperature

Thanks.

 

Do post the autoscan so we see if we can help with other issues. I will put a link of how to do the advanced logging.


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Yes. When rpm goes down to 780/800 after a minute or so, maybe less, the arm should be up. You rev the engine above 1100 it should be pulled down and then goes up when you release the throttle.


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Here is how to do advanced measuring block logging. max is 12 values.
Use the values I put above. You can search by typing the words or the numbers.
Don't forget to click the turbo box.

 

ill do this after work today.

 

Thanks for the file. Heading to google drive to get it and compare with mine.
I'll need another one when you fix your fuel trim issue
Funny thing is your fighting with lean and I'm fighting with rich. I suspect the one of previous owners didn't want to replace the primary pump and hacked the relays to work on the secondary pump only. Will check it this weekend.

 

Thanks for the file. Heading to google drive to get it and compare with mine.
I'll need another one when you fix your fuel trim issue
Funny thing is your fighting with lean and I'm fighting with rich. I suspect the one of previous owners didn't want to replace the primary pump and hacked the relays to work on the secondary pump only. Will check it this weekend.

I have to say that the lean condition was not in play during this test. because i was running on low fuel so both fuel pumps were working at this time and fuel trims were fine. (around zero)

 

Ok good to know.
First thing I see is the voltage of the two oxygen sensors Bank 1 Sensor 1 - Sensor Voltage and Bank 2 Sensor 1 - Sensor Voltage. On mine they don't go above 0.6v whereas on yours they are always at + 1.5. I'm not sure your values are right. I've read the o2 sensors should fluctuate at 0.5v. I'll have to check this. Maybe my o2 sensors are bad and are triggering a false rich condition alert.

Here is my log.

https://log.malonetuning.com/chart/...MOKw53Dt8KkwrHDvx1xw4DCgCc8w6PCiMKXwoQQdiXCr8KubcKZw4XCuxHDhsKUPnZnwrvCqcKZAAAA

And here is yours :

https://log.malonetuning.com/chart/...j8EJsOlw6FHw5LDmMO/RBwww6AFwq84JsKEcBzDssOqw5rCllnCvMO7MMKmwrQDwr97YwHClwAAAA==

 

Top google link

An oxygen sensor will typically generate up to about 0.9 volts when the fuel mixture is rich and there is little unburned oxygen in the exhaust. When the mixture is lean, the sensor's output voltage will drop down to about 0.1 volts. When the air/fuel mixture is balanced or at the equilibrium point of about 14.7 to 1, the sensor will read around 0.45 volts.

 

This is assuming the values I'm talking about on block are those of the oxygen sensors.
I need to do some more digging.
Is it possible to have the same log from your friend's Treg?