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Discussion starter · #81 ·
She is alive again!!! Need to work thru a few more issues but hopefully I'm almost there. I plan to pick her up this week.

I should have an update by the weekend. Hopefully with the new "biggest" problem resolved or at least on the way to resolving.
 
Full, detailed update and pix required!!
 
Discussion starter · #84 ·
Apparently without tuning not very well. Still diagnosing at the mechanic and I will pick it up this Friday no matter what and figure it out myself at that point.
 
according to the builder, the car should not require tuning. Im doing the same thing but I havent ordered my turbos yet.

the idea is that the car can now take advantage of a more aggressive tune and the turbos will be more efficient.

I really hope you don't have problems. to get this far and find out you NEED a $1500 tune is disheartening. I made the first major step towards my tear-down and repair and had my lift installed just yesterday. I planned on ordering the exact same turbos you have so I will be following this thread very close.
 
Discussion starter · #87 ·
Well hopefully there isn't something disconnected or a boost leak somewhere. When the Kittens were clogged he said he blew some boots off. But I think everything on the back side is metal and clamped pretty darn tight. I have a boost gauge that he ran into the interior but he did not hook up. Along with an EGT gauge. Hopefully that will help me diagnose.

He was supposed to call me back yesterday after changing the oil one more time and changing out the fuel filter. Surprise Surprise no call yesterday or today. None the less I'm going to pick it up Friday so hopefully I will be able to diagnose better when I get some more time in it with my VAG COM which admittedly I barely know how to use.
 
You'll get the hang of the Vag-Com pretty quickly. The guys at Ross Tech are also very helpful in getting the readings you are after.
 
Discussion starter · #89 ·
I made the call and I will be picking it up in the morning. I'm very excited and hoping the turbo lag of which they speak is not that bad.

I'm also told there is a Power Steering leak and hoping one of those additives works to stop it. I had it work well once before so I'm hoping, as the PS requires engine removal to fix. I'm not sure why it is leaking because it wasn't when I brought the car in but things happen and maybe after sitting dry so long a seal dried out. Hoping for the best.

I guess the transmission also leaks (did not leak before) so not sure what is going on there. I'm a little upset about both as I know neither did it before and I did have the car a few months before it went off so I know it is either a factor of their labor or sitting. But what can you do I'm sure it is nothing that is their fault from neglect...these things just happen. But hopefully it is just a pan seal from them setting it on the shop floor for the past half a year. If not again I've had luck with snake oil in the past shoring up seals.

More to follow Saturday when I get some time behind the wheel and the VAG COM.
 
any luck with VCDS?
i've looked and looked on the forum and cant find any straightforward ways to graph things like boost and turbo vein position vs called for boost numbers. this is probably what you need to watch if you want to see your new turbos truly at work.

the "list of measured value blocks" doesnt help much for the V10. I also need to take more time and get proficient at VagCom

very interested in results. hope those leaks are at bay.... nothing is more aggravating!!
 
PM CustomSpooling (Aidian). He and I were going to Skype together and do a learning session with VAG-COM to map out some of the above parameters on the V10, but I was never able to find the appropriate time to connect. Sadly, I haven't found any controller mapping for the V10 that have been translated into English. There is more than enough data coming from the various channels, but I have no map to know what goes where.
 
would a PM be necessary?
there is already a thread started about it.

how excited is Ross-Tech to get involved?

it seems to me that we paid for that support in the exorbitant price for the gizmo. otherwise i could have saved $300 buck for the ebay cheapy one.
 
Would that be my thread? Like anything else it just takes time to sit and document the values assuming that you have a handle on what the channel mapping are to begin with. Ross-Texh usually relies on published values which seem to be more commonly published in German, and with a scarce engine like the v10, translating and publishing it probably hasn't been at the top of there list.

I haven't had need to call and ask since I have largely had no problems with my engine, but if you can, call Ross-Tech.
 
Discussion starter · #95 ·
Sorry I have not updated. Been very busy at work and with other things.

I haven't noticed any leaks so that is good. I added a bit of stop leak to the PS. But then again the plastic skid plates are back on so maybe it is pooling in there and hasn't dropped yet. But so far so good.

I have been working thru a few issues. On the drive home my Steering Angle sensor light came on. I re-calibrated this last night with the VAG COM and it has not come back on yet so we will see. Hopefully I don't have to replace that $485 part.

Once arriving home the check engine light came on. It was already very sluggish but this was horrible. Would barely accelerate above 3K RPM. On startup and while cold if I give it any fuel it will surge/hesitate. Almost like it is cycling the EGR or not getting fuel. 1 second on 1 second off for about a minute after start up while cold. I'm assuming this is EGR or MAF or a something to do with my O2 sensors but not sure. I ran thru some diagnostics I found on TDI Club but most of them checked out fine.

I spent some time last night with the VAGCOM and I have some boost pressure signal and EGR issues. I tried testing them but am not to smart on the program yet. I went and logged some WOT from 3rd gear runs and it was pitiful. I cleared the DTC and went out for another run.

It was a BEAST..but still not right. All engine code lights stayed off though throughout the runs. It was lathargic unless I left off the throttle and then punched it again. Almost like double clutching with the accelerator. Then it would really take off and once it hit 3100 RPM it would REALLY launch and the front of the car would lift off the ground. Shows I'm only pulling around 17-18 PSI at full boost though (from VAGCOM and converted from milibars)

Thoughts? I think I need to change out my EGR valve but I'm sure there is more testing I can do...just not sure how to do it.
 
remember, all those controllers are adaptive. if there are no codes, you are probably good and just need to log some miles so the readiness programs all turn green. get that O2 sensor good and hot and blast out those cats. .

the stock program will limit boost so i wouldnt expect much more. get it smoothed out and you are READY for a big boost tune. WOOOHOOOOO!

did you say you put in a mechanical boost gauge?
 
Discussion starter · #97 ·
I have the thermocouple in but I do not have the boost gauge drilled yet. I also don't have the gauge wired up either. I am leaving for vacation for 2 weeks as well and won't have time to do it until I get back unless I find some time after work and the kids go to bed..(not likely).

I ended up gutting the kittens so they are clean as a whistle. If I remember right one of the 02 sensors was bad (going to get them electronically fixed). I also read a very interesting thread on MAFs. Sadly if I remember right they are a pain in the ass to remove but I think I can get the connector off easily and I've heard dielectric grease on the connector makes a big difference on some of the TDI's.

I wish I could figure out how to individually test each EGR for each bank. I did some sort of MAF test and on the high end it read within spec (info from TDI club that was for a 4 cylinder car) but read to high on the lower end by a significant margin.
 
you can pull the vacuum hose off the EGR and it will not open. eventually it will set a code but it gives you time to drive without it (them). plug the vacuum tube when you pull it off.

you gutted ALL the cats?
 
Discussion starter · #99 ·
Yes, All cats are completely gutted but at least it looks stock.

I will try that out with the EGR' and see how it does. The EGR does help though with warming up the engine quicker especially in the winter.
 
Discussion starter · #100 ·

Sorry for the crappy video. I was taking it while driving in the neighborhood on my way to work. I plan to log it on the computer tomorrow if possible.

This is a video I took this morning of the problem I was talking about. You can see the RPM jumping approx 100 rpm really quick when given any acceleration. Only seems to last a few minutes and clears up. Also it must only be my drivers side bank as I see large puffs of smoke in conjunction with the rpm jumping out of my left tail pipe. Maybe I can't see it out of my right one but I believe it is only the drivers side.

Anyone else think this is EGR?
 
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