[pcotten]

My 2004 V6 with 215K miles started acting up today. Check engine light has been on intermittently for a week. While driving normally, the engine stalled as I was slowing down for red light. The generator warning which looks like a red battery came on. I put the car in Park. Check engine light goes off at this point. Turned off the ignition and turned it back on. Engine started but stall again. Started again and this time revved the engine gently till the green light comes on and drove off. Once I start driving the generator warning light goes off. Engine doesn't stall when I keep driving with foot on gas.

When I take foot off gas and slow down, the engine stalls again. I repeat the same process and can drive again. Does this mean battery is not able to charge? Replace battery?

Manual says generator warning light signals fault in generator.

Thanks.

 

[siberian]

It could. Since it's an 04 I would check the battery cable for corrosion first and of course if it hasn't been done and it's the stock one, I would replace the battery.

siberian

 

[VA_TReg]

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be my fuel pumps. Both were replaced (not cheap) and problem solved.

 

[nltomba]

alternator?

 

[pcotten]

This is a peculiar situation. This problem occurs only when the ESP light comes on by itself without my turning ESP off. I missed that warning light in my original post. The problem went away by itself the day after I posted. It returned while I was driving a few days ago. The engine stalls only if I am slowing down to make a turn or stopping at a light. The common thing here is that the ESP light shows up. I can't turn ESP on by pressing the button. Then it goes off by itself and I have no problems. Today it returned again. Any ideas?

 

[somedude]

how old are your batteries? If you have a volt meter check your voltage at idle.

 

[aircooled]

Or a volt meter reading when the engine stalls. I don't think this is a voltage problem.

 

[pcotten]

It is gone now. I was driving along and ESP off sign went off and I no longer have the issue. I am sure it will return. I also found today that when I reach a red light, if I put the gear in Neutral, the engine won't stall. If I leave it in Drive, it will stall.

 

[pcotten]

Today, the check engine light blinked for about 5 seconds and then went back to being solid. The ESP OFF light still comes on by itself and engine stalls everytime I slow down at traffic lights. Then it goes away after a while and back to driving normal. Taking it in to the dealer on Monday to have it checked out. The vehicle is at 217K+ miles right now.

 

[pcotten]

Took it to the dealer and was told that they need to first replace the PCV/Vent Value ($269) before they can further diagnose. They said the Valve could be causing the issues I am having. I looked at the valve and I could hear hissing noise. I put my hand on top of it and the hissing stopped.

The codes are:

1. Intake Air System Leak
2. Mass or Volume Air flow Performance intermittent
3. Idle Control System higher than expected
4.Random multiple cylinder misfire detected
5. Cyl 2 misfire detected
6. Cyl 6 misfire detected
7. Cyl 2 misfire detected
8. O2 sensor voltage circuit bank 1 sensor 1
9. Pressure sensor for brake booster. Implausible signal
10. Bank 1 mixture adaptation, range 2
11. Bank 2 mixture adaptation, range 2
12. O2 sensor voltage circuit bank 2 sensor 1
13. Bank 1 mixture adaptation, range 1, lean limit not reached
14. Bank 2 mixture adaptation, range 2, lean limit not reached.

I don't know if I should believe all these codes are because of the PCV/Vent valve but I will get it replaced when part comes in.

P.S: Code diagnosis cost me $104 plus $269 for the part and labor to replace it. I thought they won't charge me for the diagnosis if I get the repair done but he denies telling me that. These dealers are a joke.

 

[pcotten]

I would like to replace the PCV valve myself and save some money. I don't have the part number though. The attached pic shows the valve. Anyone know part number for this? I have a 2004 V6. Also, I realized that the hissing noise goes away if I close the vent on top of the valve that is near to the hose.

 

[pcotten]

Got the part number (O22-103-765-A) from local dealer who has to order it for $158.40. The dealer I took that car to said it costs $165.

Found the part at below link.

Volkswagen Touareg 1 V6 > ES#269465 Crankcase Breather Valve - 022103765A

Does this mean the valve comes with the breather hose attached? If yes, I need to detach the hose at the other end and then replace the valve?

Thanks.

 

[Fourdiesel]

snip

P.S: Code diagnosis cost me $104 plus $269 for the part and labor to replace it. I thought they won't charge me for the diagnosis if I get the repair done but he denies telling me that. These dealers are a joke.

Be careful about making remarks that could be interpreted as disparaging to dealers (specifically or in general) the moderators are taking sensitivity training on that issue as we speak! A thread was recently closed for that reason.

 

[nltomba]

So you cannot discuss a crappy VW dealer that overcharges and does not know what they are doing?
So start a topic with good VW dealers that are reasonably priced in Labor, charge below msrp for parts and have parts in stock when you need something?

Follow that up with VW customer care (less). I am still pissed off at those people. No clue in how to keep a customer happy

 

[rarod58]

Volkswagen Touareg 1 V6 > ES#269465 Crankcase Breather Valve - 022103765A

Does this mean the valve comes with the breather hose attached? If yes, I need to detach the hose at the other end and then replace the valve?

Thanks.

Yes it is a complete unit with hose attached. Plug and Play. You will need a small flat head screw driver (to pry the tabs off the assembly, I think there are three) and a pair of pliers to remove the hose itself. Just pull the old one out straight up - a bit of wiggling will help loosen the rubber seal. When installing the new valve, make sure the rubber seal does not move up the breather stem...you'll see what I mean once you have the unit out. A thin film of oil around the seal will help to make sure it stays in place/seal channel.

The codes are caused by the stall...I'm surprised the cam sensor did not go off too.

Good Luck!

 

[pcotten]

Sorry if my comment about the Stealer offends anyone.
I will pursue this with VW. I just hate short sighted squeezing like this.

Ordered the part from 1stvwparts.com for $113 total. Will install it myself without being taken to the cleaners.

rarod58, thanks for the tips on installation. I hope not to botch it.

 

[farid]

my 2004 touwareg my batterie at idle have a 13 volt at maximum why maybe the alternator or not

 

[pcotten]

The check engine light blinked today a few times and then went back to solid. So, went to a dealer and had the valve replaced. The hissing noise from the valve stopped. Didn't want to wait for part to arrive next week considering blinking light. The light went away and everything was smooth. But, 5 minutes into driving, the light returned and engine seems to be laboring now. I can feel it shaking some and the acceleration is poor. I guess I have to take it back to the dealer to pull the codes again. Bummer.

 

[aircooled]

Find someone in your area with a VAG-COM and pull your own codes, or go to an auto parts store and have them pull codes. Unless the dealer will pull again for free (and they should since what the replaced didn't fix the problem).

 

[pcotten]

I went to a different dealer today. No plans to go back to the Stealer from yesterday. I didn't know auto parts store can pull codes.