400k? Bravo!
What kind of servicing\replacing have you done?

Sorry, I don't know the life expectation of an engine mount.... they aren't really a wear item unless the vehicle is really abused.... IMO

 

Obviously, if you're experiencing a lot of vibration or your V10 is trying to escape your engine bay, you are ready for new mounts.....

 

Hey JET13 i am also from perth would be good to know what you have had to do to keep it going that long, what type of oil do you use?

 

Olive oil I guess

 

Engine mounts go bad over time because the rubber cushions deteriorate. My 735 BMW with only 35K miles but 30yrs old needed to be replaced. Hard to believe,but true.

 

Changed engine oil every 10000km with Genuine oil and filter up to 380000 then VW wangara told me it was too hard to source since then i learned from Dragline that PenriteC2 was acceptable replacement
New AGM battery
I rebuilt the front diff about 310000km which turned out well cost about$450 all up all new bearings seals my labour free
changed the transmission fluid using Fuchs product ive done it twice in 100000km
put new bushes in original control arms upper and lower from memory
Replaced a couple of wheel bearings
Installed Hatch struts and rear window struts removing and having Scotts trimming do a great job on replacing the sagging head lining
Replacing the oil heat exchanger seals and cleaning out air intake manifolds
Renewing warning buzzer speaker behind instrument display
Replacing gas strut on parking brake release
Replacing weather seal on sunroof
In Almost 100000km havent touched the brakes dont do a lot of towing but when I have car is amazing effortless and very fuel efficient
Replaced rear door lock module
Replaced Gas struts on Bonnet-Hood
Car had 2 new Toyo Proxes ST2 and 2 worn out when i bought it replaced the 2 worn out immediately just bought a new set of 4 from tyresales about 10000km
Ive driven the car (20-30000km)using another set of cayenne 18" rims with general grabbers which are in the shed with plenty of tread left
My advice to potential owners dont worry about mileage look at service records Buy a decent tool kit a Ross Tech cable and enjoy driving the car I think the problems people have are due to the fact they arent driven regularly and or are babied I still get a kick out of booting it and have it squat down only when its warmed up

 

Forgot to add Replacement driveshaft and flex coupling at about 310000km ($970 Imparts Osborne Park which I thought was reasonably priced) I would appreciate a reccomendation for a repair kit for the old one thats sitting in the shed as from this forum I gather the life expectancy is 80-900000km

 

I would appreciate a reccomendation for a repair kit

Hardy Spicer Telephone: (08) 9258 6300
Replaced bearing and carrier for $A400.00

 

JET13, I've almost had an identical experience with my 2008 T2. Currently 390k and 400k should be passed as we're going to Kati Thanda/Lake Eyre next week (with the RossTech in the kit bag just in case).
The driveshaft coupling went at 280k and we replaced it with a Cayenne one for $1200 as the quote for a VW was over $2500! I just changed my AGMs and front ball joints. Other issue was a faulty throttle position sensor which gave a false DPF alert. Recommend Master Auto in Burwood (MEL) as they have several other V10s on their books and understand them very well.
We use our 2012 Golf for anything around the city (180k now without any issues at all) and reserve the Treg for country trips where the DPFs can do their thing. Besides, it is the ultimate touring machine, regularly returning 10km/l and better on freeways, and a limpet on winding roads. The V10 is an absolute bullet when required. I have found BS Duellers H/P to be the best all round performers for 19" (handling and mileage), while I've got Pirelli Scorpion ATR+ 255/60 on the Cayenne 18" wheels I have for trekking - just need to be deflated to fit on the rear wheel carrier.

I've used the recommended oil throughout and I just don't miss any service requirements - not worth it for this car.

They rival the Discovery/RR off-road, but I don't look forward to manually winching it using the eye bolts if I ever get into trouble, given you can't find bullbars to fit and schnorkels would be a (very) tight squeeze. Also, the cargo area is not as accessible compared to the D4 I'm fitting out for some tougher trekking planned next year.

 

How did the Engine mount replacement go? I'm about to do the same Im at 370k km 👀

 

Hello
Its a while ago now and the car has been sold it had 450000km and was very reliable. But from memory I never replaced the engine mounts, I had rebuilt the front diff several years before including replacing the 3 mounting bushes,and it was these bushes that had failed after only about 80000km that was causing clunk under acceleration and gear changes
Later on the air con compressor failed and needed replacing to do that loosened the right engine mount nut then removed the left hand side engine mount (passenger side) whilst supporting then jacking engine up to give me clearance to get the drive coupling engaged with air con pump
I would imagine you would be able to remove the other mount but confirm this. My car was a 2006 V10 which came out of the factory with no DPF system
Hope this Helps

 

hi, thanks for the update.
Enjoyed reading that your Treg got to 450,000.

my 2008 is at 272,000 and last service advices to Chechnya the engine mounts. However, I do t feel any vibration. The engine is smooth as ever. V6 3.0L TDI.

In any case they recommended changing 2 engine mounts and control arms at just under $4k AUD.

Looks like you really looked after yours. Which mechanic did you take your to? I think I need a new one.

Hello
Its a while ago now and the car has been sold it had 450000km and was very reliable. But from memory I never replaced the engine mounts, I had rebuilt the front diff several years before including replacing the 3 mounting bushes,and it was these bushes that had failed after only about 80000km that was causing clunk under acceleration and gear changes
Later on the air con compressor failed and needed replacing to do that loosened the right engine mount nut then removed the left hand side engine mount (passenger side) whilst supporting then jacking engine up to give me clearance to get the drive coupling engaged with air con pump
I would imagine you would be able to remove the other mount but confirm this. My car was a 2006 V10 which came out of the factory with no DPF system
Hope this Helps