i have a 2006 v-10 sheduled for a malone dpf-delete/tune this monday and i am wondering if i would be advised to do the egr & the o2 sensor delete as malone tunes website mentions the later two as an add on ? also im wondering if it would be ok to drive my v-10 90 miles right after the malone event to get home first then gut the dpf's at home ? lastly im assuming few people cut the sensor wires toss the dpf's and just straight pipe it ? but would that work?
dpf / o2 /egr DELETE
joefeuerstein
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i have a 2006 v-10 sheduled for a malone dpf-delete/tune this monday and i am wondering if i would be advised to do the egr & the o2 sensor delete as malone tunes website mentions the later two as an add on ? also im wondering if it would be ok to drive my v-10 90 miles right after the malone event to get home first then gut the dpf's at home ? lastly im assuming few people cut the sensor wires toss the dpf's and just straight pipe it ? but would that work?
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After you do the deletes drive as long as you want. All the delete really does is turn that part of the computer off. It doesn't measure DPF plugging, doesn't direct extra raw fuel into the exhaust stream on exhaust stroke, doesn't give alarms and doesn't put you into limp mode if anything nasty happens in the DPF. It no longer cares if the DPF is there or not! Forever!
Same sort of thing with the EGR delete - no exhaust gas is routed into the intake, it doesn't belong there anyway, that's why they call it exhaust! As long as the EGR valve remains closed (and the computer never tells it to open) everything is as it should be as far as the computer is concerned.
Same sort of thing with the EGR delete - no exhaust gas is routed into the intake, it doesn't belong there anyway, that's why they call it exhaust! As long as the EGR valve remains closed (and the computer never tells it to open) everything is as it should be as far as the computer is concerned.
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So regarding the gutting of the actual dpf on the touareg,.... why couldnt you just leave the dpf's on the touraeg and cut a say 6x6 square out of each one and proceed to grind out the inards of the dpf then weld the square back onto it when finished? this is assuming you have it up on a lift?
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If you have high ash levels in your DPF and continue to drive it after a stage 2 tune with delete, it will no longer do active regens and can clog up quickly. If it clogs, your EGT can rise very high and damage your turbo. I'd delete the DPF as soon as possible. Your motor will run cooler, have better throttle response and get better fuel economy.
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Some people have gutted their DPF's to pass visual inspection. Probably not an easy job but definitely possible.
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so i dont know what the soot level is because they couldn't do a soot level test while an exhaust pressure sensor error was occurring? so it almost sounds like cutting them out and letting it run straight out from where it used to go to the dpfs would be safer ? i apolagise for my ignorance as im barely a hack mechanic
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soot level and ash level are two different things. Soot is burned off in the DPF when extra unburned fuel is added to raise the temp in the DPF filter to the point where the soot (carbon) oxidizes and goes away. It does this in the excess oxygen environment normally present in a diesel exhaust. This a regeneration - regen - cycle.
After lots of regen cycles ash from the unburnable parts of the fuel builds up to the point where the sensors still see too much delta pressure across the converter (DPF filter). At that point the computer tells the technician it is time to replace the DPF. Major expense!
Cutting out the DPFs will only work if the computer is changed to not care if the pressure sensors are there. Hence the 'DPF delete' part.
After lots of regen cycles ash from the unburnable parts of the fuel builds up to the point where the sensors still see too much delta pressure across the converter (DPF filter). At that point the computer tells the technician it is time to replace the DPF. Major expense!
Cutting out the DPFs will only work if the computer is changed to not care if the pressure sensors are there. Hence the 'DPF delete' part.
You are asking for trouble if you don't do it simultaneously.
With the right tools its not hard to unbolt the DPFs and gut them out with an air hammer.
I only saw a 1mpg improvement but definitely got a horsepower increase, dropped a second off the 0 to 60.
Malone will probably recommend to retune the EGR meaning leave it in place to aid in engine warm up but then be tuned out once the engine is warm. I also routed my CCVs to atmosphere so no longer having oily vapors in the engine tubes and reduced EGR, I don't have soot buildup in my manifolds.
With the right tools its not hard to unbolt the DPFs and gut them out with an air hammer.
I only saw a 1mpg improvement but definitely got a horsepower increase, dropped a second off the 0 to 60.
Malone will probably recommend to retune the EGR meaning leave it in place to aid in engine warm up but then be tuned out once the engine is warm. I also routed my CCVs to atmosphere so no longer having oily vapors in the engine tubes and reduced EGR, I don't have soot buildup in my manifolds.
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Does anyone have a write up on how to remove the DPFs? sorry, i tried searching but I couldn't find anything. I climbed underneath the vehicle yesterday and some of the fasteners are almost impossible to get to (especially the passenger side DPF - USDM). the top bolt in particular... i could barely get my hand in there to locate it. i dont see how i can get a wrench or socket in there to undo it. any advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks.
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