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DIY: Driveshaft R & R

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170K views 126 replies 56 participants last post by  Splash Gabberash  
#1 ·
After experiencing the dreaded hanger bearing failure, I though I'd post a couple of pictures of the process to replace it. With Dealers charging upwards of $1300 or more to do this repair, I wanted to show how easy it is to do. If you have any mechanical skill at all you can do this!

The symptoms are a vibration and sound that gets louder as you speed up. Putting the transmission into neutral makes no difference in the sound or vibration. The noise and vibration feel like they are centered just under the center armrest. The symptoms can be sudden, especially while pulling away from a stop when you hit 30mph or so. They will not get better if you accelerate.

This is the rear half of the driveshaft and coupler

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This is the part that typically fails. You can see the shredded rubber bushing. The ring to the left should be connected to the bearing.

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The new one looks like this

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Drive Shaft Doctors in Denver, CO makes these. You get an original VW drive shaft that has been rebuilt with the new bearing style and balanced. They send you the part in a box with a return UPS shipping label so you can send them your old shaft. They get a $100 core charge for it.

The part number for the 2004 V10 is 7L6 521 102E. You can see the build date on the old one is Sept 10, 2004 and the date on the new one is June 25, 2004.

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The bolts are an 18mm head. A swivel helps a bit to get the socket on the bolts. The only special tool you need is for the 6 bolts that hold the front joint together. It is a "star" bit or some call it a triple square (12 teeth). NAPA sell them. Here is a look

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This is a picture of all the bolts and bracket that are removed to take the driveshaft out.

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If you have air suspension, put the car in x-tra level. You'll also want to put the car in neutral and jack up one rear corner. This will allow you to turn the rear differential to access all three rear bolts.

Book time for this repair is about 2 hours so expect a repair facility to charge you 2 hours labor plus the driveshaft. You can probably do this in under an hour if you have the tools and space.

Good luck!

Nancy
 
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#3 ·
If you compare the two pictures, you can see a slight variation in the carrier housing lip and center rubber bushing. I assume the outer rubber part is heavier duty also.

The more I look at it however, it looks like the metal housing could be oriented 180 degrees on the new one compared to the old one. Hmmmm.

Nancy
 
#6 ·
The more I look at it however, it looks like the metal housing could be oriented 180 degrees on the new one compared to the old one. Hmmmm.

Nancy
I think that's just an optical illusion. If you visually rotate the new one around it looks like it'll be in the same position as the old one. (The two 'feet' on each unit have opposing positions.)

Oh, and thanks for the EXCELLENT write up! Hoping VW has engineered this to last a little longer in the T2. But if not, I'm ready (thanks to you).
 
#4 ·
Do you guys mind if I move this DIY section? Fantastic write up!
 
#5 ·
Chris, go right ahead.

Nancy
 
#8 ·
OK, I see what you mean now.

I wonder if this is an engineering change. Curious to see what it looks like on my T2 now...
 
#11 ·
Depending on where you buy your driveshaft from, they will tell you that all touaregs now use the drive shaft that was intended for the V10. That is what I was told last year when I bought mine I just threw away the box so can't remeber what the part number was.
 
#13 ·
I just had my drive shaft replaced under warranty because it was starting to scream....LOUDLY. I tried spraying the carrier bearing with white lithium grease for about three months to keep the noise down but it failed to fix it any longer.

The repair was delayed by one day because the dealership ordered the incorrect drive shaft. The part number for the drive shaft they used on my 06 V8 with air suspension was 7L6-521-102-P, they also used a part number 1K0-253-141-4. After inspecting the car I believe that the clamp is probably an exhaust clamp because it appears that one of them is new. I'm guessing they dropped the exhaust so that it would be easier to turn a wrench.
 
#17 ·
For those of you have done the driveshaft replacement I'm hoping you can help me out. Got my drive shaft today. I have got to the point where I have to pull the shaft out of the differential and it won't budge. The black casing came back, but I can't get the rest of it to budge. Any suggestions, tricks to this? Thanks in advance.
 
#18 ·
In the northern climates, they stick. Get a BFH and smack it HARD! Put the WD-40 away....
 
#19 ·
Job finished. Total success, works smooth as silk now. Took 4 hours total. Bleeding knuckes, sore back, but it's done. At least an hour of the time was spent trying to get the old drive shaft out of the pinion flange on the rear diff. It was really seized in there. Followed advice from DicknNancy and got out the BFH. It really takes some force to get that out. At first I was hitting the flange on the end of the shaft, that had no effect. Hitting the end of the shaft before the last joint did the trick. I whaled on it for a few minutes and sure enough it came out. I hope I can get a core charge back on it, I beat it up pretty good. I will attribute this to the Maine winters, road salt making corrosion between the pinion flange and the drive shaft. I found it necessary to drop the exhaust from the cats back. Started it up with the exhaust off, sounds pretty mean. Got the drive shaft from touaregdriveshaft.com. They included directions and shipping was free. Had the part 4 days after order. Includes two year unlimited mile warranty. Assuming I get my core charge back total cost will be $390. I'm not a mechanic by any means, have done my own oil changes, spark plugs, basic repair. From 1-10 difficulty range I would put this at an 8, for me anyway. Here's some pics of the old shaft. Good luck to anyone who attempts this, it was hard work but worth it for the few hundred bucks I saved.
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#20 ·
...Drive Shaft Doctors in Denver, CO makes these...
Just to save the Touareg brethren a bit of google time...

The shop also goes by "Colorado Driveshaft". HERE is there Touareg driveshaft page.

Current price is $475 + $100 core + shipping.

I'm at 84,000 miles with the original driveshaft, but these guys are close by if mine starts to go.
 
#21 ·
Just had a chance to visually inspect my driveshaft (just bought the touareg used a week ago). It looks like new! I wobbled around the center bearing - seems loose, but rubber was in fantastic condition. Part Number was 7L0 521 102 F with a date of 16 07 03. Only reason I checked because Im getting a vibration around 45Mph

Was this thing reman or just lightly used? touareg has ~80,000Mi
 
#22 ·
I doubt it was remanufactured. Very few people know you can do this so I suspect it is the original shaft and, from what you say, it may not have long to go.

The vibration from these comes through the central arm rest.

If the vibration you report is elsewhere I'd thoroughly clean the wheels and then get them rebalanced.
 
#23 ·
Definatly not wheel issue. Out of balance givest low frequency rumble (maybe 20Hz - or however many times wheel spins a minute) Im hearing something much higher RPM (possibly 60-70Hz) what is the final drive ratio?

my non technical description of symptom whould be a Brrrrrrrrrr, and an out of balance wheel being a thud thud thud......

Boy, time to increase my wordiness!
 
#24 ·
DO NOT USE COLORADO DRIVE SHAFT!!

Just went through replacement of driveshaft on 04 touareg. Ordered remanufactured drive shaft from Colorado drive shaft as it looked like a good savings over buying new from VW. Took a little over 6 hours to install shaft the first shaft as the old one was pretty rusted into the rear differential. Finally got the new one in and took it for a test drive. Ran smooth at city speeds but got heavy vibration from shaft at 65 mph and above. I called Colorado Drive Shaft and they promptly sent a replacement shaft out because the first was determined to be out of balance.

Got the second one installed in a little over 2 hours... I was becoming an expert! On test drive I was getting the same vibration. How can you send out a second shaft that is out of balance? Horrible quality control!! I finally had enough with the maintenance on the Touareg and decided to trade it in. Dealership noticed the vibration when inspecting it and I had to take a hit on trade in. Colorado drive shafts only solution was to offer me ANOTHER shaft. Yeah right, like I want to spend another 2 hours reinstalling your defective product at my cost!

Do not buy from Colorado Drive Shaft. I am not the only one with experiences like this - search the forum. I think there is another shop out of Indianapolis who seems to have a better track record.
 
#25 ·
The drive shaft bearing can damage the transmission when it lets go so your problem may have been elsewhere in the drive train but since you no longer own the car, it's someone else's problem now!
 
#26 ·
#27 ·
The symptoms are a vibration and sound that gets louder as you speed up. Putting the transmission into neutral makes no difference in the sound or vibration. The noise and vibration feel like they are centered just under the center armrest. The symptoms can be sudden, especially while pulling away from a stop when you hit 30mph or so. They will not get better if you accelerate.
jmansfield04 -were the symptoms the same? how many miles?

sounds like what has happened to me today... the car was close to stopped, then i accelerated like usual from 5mph to over 35mph or so and bang! -a kinda low grumbling/grinding noise and vibration comming from the center arm rest/shifting column. i drove for a little while longer, feathering the accelerator but it was fairly persistent (non existent under 35mph)... i am having the car towed and should have it on a lift later this week.
79,500mi 2006 V10.
hopefully my symptoms match with your description and i can get this fixed, thanks for all the pictures and info!!!

does off roading stress/accelerate drive shaft failure?
 
#28 ·
Right noise, right mileage I'm afraid, though I'm surprised you don't have some noise at all speeds.

Mine failed shortly after a mile+ long wade in 2 feet of water but I don't think off roading really increases the wear [few off roading folk really do any significant off road miles] though it may cause more strain so if it is about to go then it might help it along which is what I believe happened in my case.
 
#29 ·
I had to get mine done July 2009 I got it rebuilt locally here in NYC unfortunately I don't recall the name of the place but I'm sure if I go around there I would be able to identify it it is over metropolitan ave not far from the brooklyn bridge (I did 3 trip there, 1 for quoting 1 to drop off and another to pick up) my mechanic uninstalled the thing in, no lie, like 15 min n he still complained that it took him long, reinstalling was much faster. The rebuilt cost me $540 which considering shipping and handling from other places or longer drives was not a bad deal. I remember that one of the employes saw me park and I didn't even ask he told me "rebuild for a driveshaft right?" they told there that they fixed more than a few treg's and cayenne 's driveshafts. I have not had problems with mine after the rebuild. If anyone in the are is interest I would be willing to go and check the area to look for the shop (already used google to try to find it, no luck)
 
#30 ·
does off roading stress/accelerate drive shaft failure?
Mine failed shortly after an off road excursion. Probably the mud/silt hastening the process.
 
#31 ·
thanks for the additional info...
also let me mention that the week leading up to this, we had a lot of snow, enough to get all around the calipers and ice the wheels maybe knocking them off balance? (guilty of doing donuts w/ esp off as well) and so the small vibration i was experiencing on the highway i attributed to the wheel-snow-ice-balance combination... ugh

can't wait to get it on the lift!