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Wow, your exhaust came off much easier than mine is. Check my thread in the Diesel engine section. I have one nut of the six off.

@buyingconstant7 ETA after watching more (@10:22): the circle doodads on the hanger brackets are to put outside the rubber. There is an Allen set screw to keep it from falling off when it is in the correct location.
 
I'd be very interested in seeing how soon the ATF reaches proper operating temps on these (0C8s) once they are fully deleted in colder regions.... I do a mix of urban and back roads commuting daily with my fully stock setup, and in winter times, I'll spend 1/3 of my commute without shifting into 8th even though the same use\commute typically uses 8th much earlier during milder weather..... I haven't logged it yet, but I'm fairly confident that this phenomenon is a result of the TCU\ECU trying to heat up the ATF and potentially even avoiding locking up the TC.....

I need to find time to do this log to confirm my theories....
 
I'd be very interested in seeing how soon the ATF reaches proper operating temps on these (0C8s) once they are fully deleted in colder regions.... I do a mix of urban and back roads commuting daily with my fully stock setup, and in winter times, I'll spend 1/3 of my commute without shifting into 8th even though the same use\commute typically uses 8th much earlier during milder weather..... I haven't logged it yet, but I'm fairly confident that this phenomenon is a result of the TCU\ECU trying to heat up the ATF and potentially even avoiding locking up the TC.....

I need to find time to do this log to confirm my theories....
It will take significantly longer being deleted That is accurate. And yes your theory about the transmission holding onto gears longer is absolutely right; it's to get the ATF up to temp quicker
 
As much as I love stories, I need data.... logs... charts.... something.....
Stories I can find\tell\get all day long.... or even theories.

Dig deep... or go buy another egg and pull logs to show me! :p
My Cummins and powerstroke do the same thing. Both take longer to get up to temp, both hold gears longer until the ATF has some heat, and both disable exhaust brake until something is up to temp (likely ATF, as exhaust brake and tranny start working around the same time but it may be coolant or oil temp too)
 
Once again junior, I know the theory.... you can't compare apples to oranges to muffins.....
I have data from my stock 0C8 in my tranny temp post\logs..... everything from random beating on it, to towing a bunch of crap (~3k) in a utility trailer, to towing a 25ft TT......

So data from someone like @buyingconstant7 (for example) who's got the same setup as me only tuned\deleted would be comparable.... (he's also from a cold zone, but even then, it may not be ideal as he lives out in da stix so he can probably just drive at somewhat of a load right away, whereas, I have to deal with traffic, lights, whatever, and I rarely get to crack triple digit speed [in km] on my commute)

Whatever your stump pullers you like to own do, doesn't give me anything useful....

Know what I mean? :unsure:
 
Once again junior, I know the theory.... you can't compare apples to oranges to muffins.....
I have data from my stock 0C8 in my tranny temp post\logs..... everything from random beating on it, to towing a bunch of crap (~3k) in a utility trailer, to towing a 25ft TT......

So data from someone like @buyingconstant7 (for example) who's got the same setup as me only tuned\deleted would be comparable.... (he's also from a cold zone, but even then, it may not be ideal as he lives out in da stix so he can probably just drive at somewhat of a load right away, whereas, I have to deal with traffic, lights, whatever, and I rarely get to crack triple digit speed [in km] on my commute)

Whatever your stump pullers you like to own do, doesn't give me anything useful....

Know what I mean? :unsure:
Your initial inquiry was "I'm fairly confident that this phenomenon is a result of the TCU\ECU trying to heat up the ATF and potentially even avoiding locking up the TC", and you are correct
 
Sorry for hijacking the thread but I'm also considering a delete specifically if it will prevent issues with oil cooler and egr/egr valve down the road. I had my Touareg 2013 fixed under warranty and it's got twice the mileage from when the first expensive repair happened, but no warranty now. Below is the description of what VW described my repair as. From what I've read it seems that I would need to remove the egr to not run into issues. Does the egr delete from darkside also eliminate the egr valve?

Description from VW: Visual inspection of the exhaust showed a crack in the catalytic converter where the pipe bolts to the turbocharger.
The exhaust leak was on the catalytic converter to turbo flange. This leak caused the high pressure pump to superheat resulting in the failure of the pump (leaking diesel) and its o-ring leaking oil. These fluid leaks filled the valley of the engine and resulted in the failure of numerous cooling system hoses and seals such as the oil cooler seal, cooling hoses, coolant shut-off valve and valve plate, etc. The high-pressure fuel pump was replaced and all necessary hoses and gaskets. Thorough degrease of engine bay was done.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Sorry for hijacking the thread but I'm also considering a delete specifically if it will prevent issues with oil cooler and egr/egr valve down the road. I had my Touareg 2013 fixed under warranty and it's got twice the mileage from when the first expensive repair happened, but no warranty now. Below is the description of what VW described my repair as. From what I've read it seems that I would need to remove the egr to not run into issues. Does the egr delete from darkside also eliminate the egr valve?

Description from VW: Visual inspection of the exhaust showed a crack in the catalytic converter where the pipe bolts to the turbocharger.
The exhaust leak was on the catalytic converter to turbo flange. This leak caused the high pressure pump to superheat resulting in the failure of the pump (leaking diesel) and its o-ring leaking oil. These fluid leaks filled the valley of the engine and resulted in the failure of numerous cooling system hoses and seals such as the oil cooler seal, cooling hoses, coolant shut-off valve and valve plate, etc. The high-pressure fuel pump was replaced and all necessary hoses and gaskets. Thorough degrease of engine bay was done.
The Darkside kit forces you to remove the entire EGR assembly which houses the valve internally. It’s just block off plates and gaskets with coolant bypasses. The EGR system is completely removed with this kit installed.
 
Sorry for hijacking the thread but I'm also considering a delete specifically if it will prevent issues with oil cooler and egr/egr valve down the road. I had my Touareg 2013 fixed under warranty and it's got twice the mileage from when the first expensive repair happened, but no warranty now. Below is the description of what VW described my repair as. From what I've read it seems that I would need to remove the egr to not run into issues. Does the egr delete from darkside also eliminate the egr valve?

Description from VW: Visual inspection of the exhaust showed a crack in the catalytic converter where the pipe bolts to the turbocharger.
The exhaust leak was on the catalytic converter to turbo flange. This leak caused the high pressure pump to superheat resulting in the failure of the pump (leaking diesel) and its o-ring leaking oil. These fluid leaks filled the valley of the engine and resulted in the failure of numerous cooling system hoses and seals such as the oil cooler seal, cooling hoses, coolant shut-off valve and valve plate, etc. The high-pressure fuel pump was replaced and all necessary hoses and gaskets. Thorough degrease of engine bay was done.
I have a Darkside EGR kit for sale if you're ever interested.
 
Sorry for hijacking the thread but I'm also considering a delete specifically if it will prevent issues with oil cooler and egr/egr valve down the road. I had my Touareg 2013 fixed under warranty and it's got twice the mileage from when the first expensive repair happened, but no warranty now. Below is the description of what VW described my repair as. From what I've read it seems that I would need to remove the egr to not run into issues. Does the egr delete from darkside also eliminate the egr valve?

Description from VW: Visual inspection of the exhaust showed a crack in the catalytic converter where the pipe bolts to the turbocharger.
The exhaust leak was on the catalytic converter to turbo flange. This leak caused the high pressure pump to superheat resulting in the failure of the pump (leaking diesel) and its o-ring leaking oil. These fluid leaks filled the valley of the engine and resulted in the failure of numerous cooling system hoses and seals such as the oil cooler seal, cooling hoses, coolant shut-off valve and valve plate, etc. The high-pressure fuel pump was replaced and all necessary hoses and gaskets. Thorough degrease of engine bay was done.
Oil cooler can't really be deleted and shouldn't be
 
Oil cooler can't really be deleted and shouldn't be
That makes sense. Oh well. Believe it or not. Speaking of the devil... I looked at my engine under which I had not taken a look in a couple of months to see the condition of the emission piping and I've got a oil leak! I'm going to create another post in the correct place with more pictures to see if someone can guide me as to where to start looking...

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