The battery is underneath the front driver's seat. It can only be accessed by taking the seat off.

However, there are jump ports under the hood on the driver's side of the engine bay that are connected to the battery for easy jumps.


There is also a wonderful search function that is very helpful for any questions you may have in the future:

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/search.php?do=process

Happy to help though.

 

under the driver seat...

 

under the passenger seat.... in Australia.

 

You don't take the left hand side [driver's LHD/ passenger's RHD] seat off!

You undo two bolts at the front and it hinges backwards to reveal the battery.

 

I didn't mean take the whole thing off I simply meant it needed to be moved in order to access it; yes, the 2 bolt way works exquisitely!

 

cool !! thank you, i seen the jump ports under the hood, but i didn't feel comfortable not knowing where the battery was.. thanks everyone

 

Now, if you were a real blonde, then the question you would have asked is, "where do I put the key", followed by, "where is the lipstick holder"?

 

ok oilslurper, hahaha on the real blonde thread !! Don't push it tho, some nights i dont have a real good sense of humor, and i turn into a red head !!

 

Redhead's rule so it seems - our Prime Minister is a redheaded female.

 

Hint: (for non-blondes too) The two screws mentioned are 10mm triple square drive, also called XZN. No, you probably don't have one laying around in your toolbox.

Detritus collected in the screwhead should be removed for full-depth seating of the tool, a light tap always helps...A half-depth camout is not a pretty sight, and difficult to remedy (left-hand cobalt drill time)

Clever clogs that pound a Torx into the screw head find that it will remove the screw once.
Probably.
After that, *nothing* will fit the screw without camming out, ever again.

Note to compulsive upgraders: When you need to replace the battery, a Group 95 (like '03-up full-size Range Rover uses) will fit the battery box and clamp system perfectly, the Group 49 (fitted as stock) seems a bit small...but cheaper!
Group 95 has maybe 20% more capacity.

 

hey guys have had my adaptor for phone fall down between seats and slip under battery cover - so the two bolts at the front are holding the railing down right so you need a special star tool to undo these are these the two bolts described above and you have to take the plastic runner off to reveal it -

 

Hey mate, A regular allen key will back out the screws, cant remember 8-or 10 mm.

First go to back of rails of passenger seat, there is 2 platic covers that slide of towards you. This allows the seat to pivot later. Moving the seat full forward helps see them first time.

Second go back to passengers seat ( front) move seat back a fair bit. You will see 2 plastic covers where seat meets floor. There under any mats. Lift them up gently.

Third, you can now see 2 bolts 12 stars, I can easily remove mine with alley key hex head. I think some are super tight and need the correct 12 point tool. Undo these and motor seat forward a bit, now you can pivot the hold seat back to the 2nd row.

Take care there is a wiring loom attached that needs attention as you pivot back.

After doing this once or twice, it takes about 3 min to do the job.
cheers and good luck.

 

PLEASE use EXACTLY the RIGHT 12 point tool and MAKE BLOODY SURE you have pushed the tool right into the stud BEFORE even thinking about applying any pressure.

Sometimes the tool has a slight dome on the bottom of it. If so flatten that with a file before you start to make sure your tool goes ALL the way in for once!!!

If you strip the inside of these studs, you're fecked.

 

All I can say is I have done this many times with a allen key. Never had problems and no damage to 12 star drive edges.

@Nooby, sure the right tool is better and I said that in round about way. If they are stupidly tight he will need the 12 star. I didn't have a 12 star bit the day my battery went flat, so Aussie's improvise. I still use a hex head because it works perfect for me. I should add I'm using Snap on hex head, not rubbish, so the fit is tight.

He asked " Do I need a special tool"? answer is no in my experience, but sure, its desirable.
No need to use caps and shout at him and me.

 

I was merely emphasising the need for the correct tool and care when using it.

You were happy doing what you did and it worked for you.

However others have come badly unstuck not using the correct tool as the factory uses some kind of gunk on these studs which, as you said, can make them bloody hard to shift the first time anyone attempts to do so post manufacture.

The problem with a used car is people may not know whether these studs have been undone in the past or not, hence my concern.

In fact, these studs are not supposed to be re-used but I don't think I have read of anyone replacing them yet!

I think we have a duty of care when giving advice to folk thousands of miles away to offer the best we can so I stand by what I said - please use the CORRECT tool!

 

Don't mess with the NoobyTooby

Is that really you Phoenix, you look so .............??

 

No worries nooby,
But I thought with a 11,000 post count you would understand a very well known internet etiquette, writing in caps is SHOUTING, not emphasising. Bad form old chap.
Some other forums I am a member of posts with unnecessary CAPS get deleted as it is considered rude.

 

THIS IS SHOUTING.

This is EMPHASISING out of immediate due concern for a member and his WALLET!!

Glad we're sorted.

 

thanks guys will take all the advice on board
take care