Do you know the service history? The 2004 V8s had a problem with the positive cable from the battery to alternator. There was a TSB issued at the time. I don't have the service info, as I gave it to the buyer of my 2004, but the issue centered on poor conductivity between the cable and the positive alternator point due to inadequate cleaning of the mating surfaces.

 

Do you know the service history? The 2004 V8s had a problem with the positive cable from the battery to alternator. There was a TSB issued at the time. I don't have the service info, as I gave it to the buyer of my 2004, but the issue centered on poor conductivity between the cable and the positive alternator point due to inadequate cleaning of the mating surfaces.

spoke to the dealer on thursday about this and said he is aware of this tsb and will check it out. Thanks will keep you guys posted, hopefully I'll here something on monday.

 

mine is in the shop as we speak for the same problem. It has been an ongoing concern off and on for a few years now. It's happened a few times in the last week so i'm hoping they will actually find something more than a huge bill for me to pay.

 

mine is in there as well. They said that they could not find anything that is draining the battery. the amps is where it should be,but they also said you know how it is you bring it here and nothing happens,so he said they would like to keep it overnight to see if it starts up the next mornning and run some more tests the next day.I said thats fine by me keep it two days if you have to. I'll keep you guys posted as to the results.

 

I'm having the same issue. After charging the battery or jumping the car, it runs fine, and can be driven around town w/o issue. The voltmeter goes right to 14 after it starts, showing the alternator is putting voltage back on the system. I'll look through the TSB post and see if I've had the alternator fix done.

 

For me, I think it is the radio..

I'm having the same issue. After charging the battery or jumping the car, it runs fine, and can be driven around town w/o issue. The voltmeter goes right to 14 after it starts, showing the alternator is putting voltage back on the system.

In doing some STFA work my wife found that others who had a similar issue were having it due to the fan in the Nav/Radio that cools down the electronics after use. Instead of shutting off like it should, it continues to run.

So, for the past 4-5 days we have left the radio off, completely, so it doesn't run and doesn't heat up, and we have been able to start the car without issue, even after having it sit for close to 24 hours.

That said, what I remember reading is that the radio needs software/firmware revision 635. How can I tell what I have, and do we have an ISO available so we can fix the firmware ourselves?

 

There are two problems that I am aware of. There are two batteries (at least on my V10), one under the front drivers seat and one in the rear trunk. The battery under the seat is the main and the trunk is the back up. If you have a short in the trunk battery, it will drain down your main battery. Also, the batteries are made by Interstate and they have had a problem with these batteries. I have had 3 replaced under warranty and one was replaced 3 months after a new replacement. Dealers won't normally check the batteries if they are new as they don't suspect it.

One other thing, if you are getting draining, (enough to reset your clock to 12:00) but the car starts, it may well be the connection from the cable to the battery. They corrode quite often and require cleaning and making sure they are secure.

 

If you have a short in the trunk battery, it will drain down your main battery.

Where do you get that from? As I understand it the batteries are separated from each other the majority of the time for that reason among others. If you turn the key to the left it connects them through an isolation switch near the main battery.

 

I've had similar problems over the past several weeks. I didn't have a clamp ammeter with good enough resolution to determine if the car was going into sleep mode. The Keyless system also was flaky. With VAG-COM I couldn't determine if the software was up to date. Took it to the dealer, suggested they look at the Nav/Radio software and Keyless system. The software was out of date, they updated it. No problems in the past 3 days.
Before the battery voltage would decrease 0.1VDC - 0.2VDC every hour. It's stayed at 12.5VDC since the update. Keyless has worked everyday as well.
as a bonus, I ended up getting 8 new coil packs due to a recall that was never performed

 

Oddly enough, my '04 V8 has started doing this is weekend. I still have the original battery and my odometer is near 76,000 mls. I shall check my service records for the TSB and make sure my cables are not rotted through.

 

this may be the problem they found?

Hello fellow members,after nearly 2weeks in the shop i get a call today stating that they think they found the problem. The mechanic said its the telematics control module that is drawing power which is a non usable unit for the old onstar system which is no longer in use because they went from analog to digital. they went ahead and replaced this control module and so far they said they have not been getting any draw. They want to keep it overnite for one more nite before they hand the car back,they said the treg starts up after the next morning. they just want to be sure that its working fine. What do you guys think of this.
Ill post up my results and opinons once i pick her up.:-k

 

I bought a 2004 V8 5 months ago. It has just 71k miles on it. It was problem free for about a month and then the battery started dying..? But I can jump start it and it will run fine but then will eventually die again after starting it a few times. I bought a new battery and I went 3.5 weeks without having any issues at all. Now the other day it started dying again! I took it to a shop and they told me that the alternator is shot in which my battery is not staying charged. I also spoke with another shop who said he has worked on VW's for years and has never seen an alternator go out, especially in a Touareg. I do not want to spend thousands of dollars to fix something that didn't need to be fixed. Any suggestions?

 

If possible, check the service records and determine if the cable from the alternator to the battery has ever been replaced. This was a known problem with 2004 Touaregs; the battery would not receive an adequate charge. A telltale sign is having the voltmeter indicate less than 13.8 volts while driving. If it is the original factory unit, install a new one and carefully clean the contact surfaces at both ends of the cable.

 

... and stay away from Morrison Auto Group...unless you won the ice classic

siberian

 

... and stay away from Morrison Auto Group...unless you won the ice classic

siberian

Had to Google those

 

I'm sure 907Girl knows whereof I spake

siberian

 

Thanks Siberian! I have stayed clear of Morrison

DenverBill - My voltmeter when the car is running is anywhere between 12.5 and 13.8, never the full 14 it is supposed to be (except the few weeks it had a brand new battery)
Is this cable something that in order to be replaced also needs a whole new alternator?

 

Good girl

When running it should be around 13.3 - 13.5 normally so your battery or alternator or cable could be the culprit here. When the car is not running it should be at least 12.4v. A 12v battery showing 12 volts is dead.

Stay cool
siberian

 

What siberian said, plus, the alternator cable replacement does not also require a new alternator. I was told back in late 2003 that the cables were replaced because some were installed with inadequate cleaning of the attachment areas at either end, and some of the cables showed higher than allowable resistance values, thus not providing enough power to keep the battery adequately charged.

 

That's why I placed an "or" in between the possible causes. But good clarification Bill.

siberian

 

On the V10 the batteries are switched in parallel. The main battery (in the trunk) is responsible for starting the other one (under the seat) for convenience electronics and backup power for starting if needed. For more info check out the SSP 298 Touareg Electrics (1) in the DIY.

siberian

 

The main battery (in the trunk) is responsible for starting the other one (under the seat) for convenience electronics and backup power for starting if needed.

Don't you have that backwards? Then why when my Touareg won't start, the battery under the seat shows 11 volts and the battery in the back is 12.5 volts? And if I turn the key counterclockwise it will start (on the rear battery).

 

Here you go...

 

My battery was dying and it was the key module they ended up replacing.

 

Bingo!!! This is what fixed my battery drain also. If you have had the alt. cable replaced and have 14 volts on the meter, it could be the fan on the Nav or the keyless entry module. The dealer could not find my battery drain (several batteries later) and I even tried to isolate the drain but could not. The keyless entry was the issue. Once replaced, no more problem with battery drain for about 5 months now with everyday driving.

 

This is the one thing I haven't tried yet! Taking my 2004 V8 in on Monday.. I LOVE my car, it drives so smooth and like a sweet car but yet it's an suv. However, about 3-4 months after I bought it last year, it started dying on me. Replaced the battery, didn't die for about a month.. Took it to the shop they checked the cable that is a known issue but mine had apparently already been replaced back in '05. They then took the navigation system out which has been known to drain the battery.. Didn't help. They then wanted to replace my alternator, which they said would cost around 2k!! I wanted to avoid that anyway I could.. My boyfriend got resourceful and (no idea how he came up with it) bought a $40 trickle charger (it's just a small box) that is meant for charging a lawn mower or snow blower, connected it to my jump post and for the last year every other day in the winter (seems to die more often in cold weather) plug it in and charge over night then it starts just fine.. In the summer I could go 2-3 weeks without dying. Also invested in a little jumper box I keep in my car, best 70 bucks! Don't have to ask people to jump me BUT just this week it has been dying more and more and finally last night stopped starting with my jumper box but will start when jumped by another car. As soon as I took the key out everything dies though. The voltage normally reads between 13-13.5 when charged and running, this week it's been reading 12-12.5. Also, once it was running my radio kept going a little crazy, it would shut off and then start and show the "safe mode" screen then be back to normal?? Also when first jumped, the 4WD knob will be flashing and my computer says something about the drive train. But after it's turned off and started again (if it has been charged) then it doesn't show. I did notice when I bought it (in April 2010) that the keyless lock didn't always work and it has only worked like 3 times to unlock the truck. I am hoping that letting the mechanic know I found this issue with the KESSY that maybe that is my problem. Sorry for the long slight rant. I am so beyond frustrated with this issue and just want it to run for me! I am sure I could not trade in and not lose money (I owe 13k) does anyone have any advice on what you may think could be causing this?
Thanks

 

Like I said in response to your post on another thread, your voltmeter readings are below the norm and the Touareg is VERY sensitive to even slightly low volts.

I'd start with checking out that "new" battery first.

 

x2 on the battery, you may have a dead cell or two in there.

Who are you taking it to in Anchorage?

siberian

 

Well I replaced the battery last summer and they tested it and all before and said it was good to go? But maybe that is the issue. I would feel a little stupid for going through everything I have if that ends up being the issue.
I am taking it to German Steel, that is where I have taken it before and like them a lot. The guy who owns it was the head mechanic at Morrison for 8 years then left to start his own.

 

OK have them do a CCA or battery under load test as well. The values you mentioned are low. A battery charging should show 14 volts or 13.8 +. Not charging it should show 12.4 to 12.5.

Never heard of German Steel but then I don't live in Anchorage but Fairbanks. Where is he located?

Good luck and keep us posted.

siberian

 

Thanks i will tell them to do that! When they tested the battery before putting it in it read 14v but then turning the car on it reads lower.. I really think there is something draining my battery. But we will see! I will post next week with an update.

It's an awesome place! They are nice and work with me on finding the cheaper problem instead of others (Morrison) just telling me to fix the alternator and fork out 2k. It's located in South Anch, over off Huffman.

 

You may still have something draining your battery, but before going the expensive route, it don't cost much to be sure that it isn't the easy thing. You can always then go with the key transponder etc.

Good luck

siberian

PS BTW if it is the alternator, they can replace it without dropping the engine.