[emailpeter]

I won't join debate on so called "lifetime" fluid or use. The fact that there is improvement after changing ought be sufficient testimonial.

Like many here, we find the OEM VW fluid very expensive, esp in my part of the world. I also ordered the Ravenol 20L drum (I have both Touareg 2013 and Q7 2013) so they use up same fluid. I running out of that soon. But since they are SD-80 vs the same SD-60 Lexus/Toyota 6 speed box, I am inclined to think the Aisin and Toyota WS fluid will work just as good.

Anyone care to help me digest on this.

 

[New2Tregs]

My $0.02AUD worth.
The extended service ATF is low viscosity, I think that's to reduce internal resistance.
Synthetic fluid (extended service) fluid thickens up when it gets old so you drained thicker fluid out and replaced it with thinner fluid.

You could use Alt 0162 to write ¢. Just hold down the Alt button when typing in 0162.

 

[TRespect]

In the video he's draining the old fluid from the top cooler hose.
Could the lower hose suck up new fluid as you go?

Yes. There a long thread about it here. I’ll find the link. But I didn’t use this method. I just let it drain for a few seconds and refilled from the bottom. If you do the oil cooler fill method you need a pump to synchronise the f’ow in flow out. Some have had success using only gravity fill. It didn’t work in my case. So I just did the simple method: start the treg for 30 sec and when the oil cooler line starts sputtering stop the treg and refill from the the tranny fill plug.


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[Flash635]

You could use Alt 0162 to write ¢. Just hold down the Alt button when typing in 0162.

Where's the fun in that?

 

[TRespect]

[emoji23]


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[Flash635]

Yes. There a long thread about it here. I’ll find the link. But I didn’t use this method. I just let it drain for a few seconds and refilled from the bottom. If you do the oil cooler fill method you need a pump to synchronise the f’ow in flow out. Some have had success using only gravity fill. It didn’t work in my case. So I just did the simple method: start the treg for 30 sec and when the oil cooler line starts sputtering stop the treg and refill from the the tranny fill plug.


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I remember some of the guys on the Explorer forum I used to haunt had some sort of recirculating fluid thing going on but it was too hard because the cooler thermostat was inside the transmission..

I think your method looks easy enough.

 

[RWBriley]

I just changed my fluid for the first time at 225,000 miles. 2005, V6. Used Valvoline max life synthetic. I have had a few issues on acceleration but nothing serious. I just dropped pan, cleaned magnets, and replaced filter. Getting new fluid it is not easy. I don’t care what anyone says. Noticeable improvement in shifting, etc.

 

[touakrid]

When your Touareg was new they said the tranny was sealed for life. They used low viscosity high mileage synthetic fluid.
Now we know that the "life" of the tranny is quite a bit longer if you do a service and that is the current advice for newer cars but the 2005 service information remains the same.

Owners of other brands that use the Aisin transmissions have all come to the same conclusion.

Unlike the crankcase oil there's no mystery to the Aisin transmission fluid, it's basically the synth version of DX3.
Toyota T4 or WS. Mobil 3306. Mercon V .

If you ask VW, "Life Time" prolly means about 100-120,000 kms.
My 05 V6 gas has now done 354,000 kms, never had tranny serviced or oil changed.
Have some trouble like random flares for a while now, so am thinking about changing the oil, filter etc.
Someone mentioned the Torque Converter could begin to play up, which I suspect mine is starting to do. Hard to tell because there's no sensors or fault codes for that beast.

 

[touakrid]

I

Use this video if you decide to go for it:

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I always think yes it's great to clean everything and flush everything to make it look brand new etc, but on a car as old as mine, simply draining and refilling the ATF will prolly do 90% of the job with only a fraction of the work and cost.
Metal stuck on the magnets is not going anywhere anytime, and the slushy oil residue on the inside of the pan either. Even the filter is unlikely to be so clogged it needs replacing and if it was it could also be washed, saving on the cost for the new part. And the small amount of old oil in the lines and the cooler, well that's going to get circulated anyway and mixed with the new oil, again prolly by a 10:1 ratio. I'd do the drain/refill twice if I can be bothered, but definitely not remove and clean or even replace the pan, filter, and gasket as long as it isn't leaking anywhere.

 

[TRespect]

Absolutely possible this way too but like said above for a different subject: where is the fun in that [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]
And you get more satisfaction with a full flush until the flares start flying around [emoji23]
At 157 the filter was not going back in and the gasket was not going back in either. The pan needed a good clean. The oil was not very dirty I suspect a service had already been done but not sure as I had a hard time removing the fill plug.
Magnets were covered in metal deposits. I sleep better now that I circulated 13L of oil in there in about 5 mn. I’m getting a garden sprayer for the next service and even for the diffs and the transfer case. I used the hand pump. Was easier on the front diff since you have about 850ml to put in. Pumping 13L in the box was a bit tedious clumsy though. I will do another level check soon so will probably pump some more oil in there.


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[Flash635]

People often report shift flaring after doing a high mileage ATF change, I'm wondering if it's at least in part because they're taking out old, thicker atf and replacing it with new low viscosity fluid and if slipping in a bit of atf conditioner like Lucas might cure it?
I read recently that Lucas trans conditioner was just a thickener and maybe a seal swell additive; I do know it fixed my '68 Valiant Torquflite right up.

Has anybody ever fitted an inline atf filter? Seems to me that that would work well.

I haven't seen anyone mention using one of those low priced fluid transfer pumps you can get on AliWish. Looks pretty handy. I've got a spare Bosch 040 for my BMW that I might rig up.

Just my 2Alt 0162 worth.

 

[touakrid]

I am by no means an expert in transmission tech, but how can thinner oil cause slipping? What important mechanical function does the oil fulfill other than cooling and lube?

 

[Flash635]

What important mechanical function does the oil fulfill other than cooling and lube?

Hydraulic pressure.

 

[touakrid]

Hydraulic pressure.

And does this in any way affect the torque converter? Or does it have is oil fully contained?
I am asking because I am wondering if the TC can wear over time?

 

[Flash635]

And does this in any way affect the torque converter? Or does it have is oil fully contained?
I am asking because I am wondering if the TC can wear over time?

The torque converter receives recirculated oil, using thicker oil would firm up it's operation but I don't know by how much or if it would be noticeable.

I think the only thing that goes wrong with a TC is the vanes can bend and theoretically thicker oil could contribute to that, once again I don't know by how much.

I think the biggest problem with too thick oil would be in the small galleries in the valve body.

I'm no transmission expert and still think at least half of the operation of one is by magic.

 

[TRespect]

This guy has the answer for sure if you can get him to reply to your message :

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[touakrid]

The torque converter receives recirculated oil, using thicker oil would firm up it's operation but I don't know by how much or if it would be noticeable.

I think the only thing that goes wrong with a TC is the vanes can bend and theoretically thicker oil could contribute to that, once again I don't know by how much.

I think the biggest problem with too thick oil would be in the small galleries in the valve body.

I'm no transmission expert and still think at least half of the operation of one is by magic.

Oh man, that's such good information, thanks.
I think I will change the ATF and also clean or replace the filter there, to hopefully improve my shifting issues. The only codes I have are secondary air and misfiring related, nothing for the tranny, but I am wondering if it may all be related.

 

[olansies]

I also did mine about 2 months at 114K miles on my 05. Purificador de aire Olansi Replaced filter and gaskets and refilled and two weeks later, I did it again and you wouldn't believe it because the oil didn't look like it was changed two weeks earlier. This time I let it drain for 6 days. Every morning, the plan looked like I didn't empty it the day before. I'm glad I changed it twice because I believe I got lots of gunks and old fluid out and I also found the o-ring at the filter was badly pinched and pretty much destroyed which was going to give me problems down the road. I got in about 8-9 quarts using garden sprayer. This is fluid I used. $5 per bottle.

View attachment 246844

Hi thanks for sharing this this one is really an amazing oil i have used it for my YAMAHA and the result was amazing

 

[Micheld7]

I am changing the fluid and filter on an 05 with 166K miles that I got for $550. V8 with Air Suspension. Owner thought the transmission was acting up because of loud noise underneath, but it was the bearing support. I did the jimi fix 20 mins after purchase😁 and all is good. Just came back from a 34 hrs road trip to the east coast (USA) and back and its perfect👌🏾. Im doing the timing belt kit and thought I would do transmission as well. Just drained the oil today and Im gonna let drain for few more days and when done, I'll report back.

 

[touakrid]

Hi everyone. So I read through this long and exciting post (kudos to the OP and all the commenters), as I intend to change the ATF on my 354,000km (!!) 2005 V6 3.2L. I have rough shifting and random flares, and when the transmission oil gets hot (engine oil near 90-95°C) I experience crazy and erratic shifting to the point of stalling.

Couple questions though for those in the know.

- How important is the 'exact' amount and brand of ATF fluid really, thinking of how it just sits there in the pan and the suction shaft on the filter is immersed in it, and as the temperature varies the volume and viscosity changes a lot too ? And considering there's always a lot of air above the oil surface... I am asking mainly because it says that the car has to be level to do the job right, which makes sense, but how exactly 'level' does it have to be and what does 'level' mean ? Is it enough if I put a spirit level on the bottom of the pan to indicate 'level'?

- I read somewhere in this thread that the Torque Converter is also affected by the transmission oil level. How does that work exactly? I thought the T/C is fully enclosed and has its own internal amount of oil to swish around to do its job as a fluid coupling. Couldn't find any conclusive answer on the web, so has anyone got any pictures and can shed any light for me please, whether the T/C is open to the ATF oil?

- As the car is so old, I plan to just drain the old oil, fill up with new, run the engine to circulate the 3L left in that part of the system, then drain again and fill up with fresh ATF until it runs out of the big hole at the 30-40°C. I don't want to take the pan off for cleaning magnets etc, or replace any parts like the gasket and the filter, experience has taught me if I touch anything that is not metal it will likely crack or start leaking. I believe that this simple method will achieve 90% of the effect with a minimum of effort and cost. Am I mistaken and possibly missing something important?

I look forward to your replies, much appreciated