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Anderson plug install

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11K views 28 replies 10 participants last post by  meggsy  
#1 ·
I’m wanting to install an Anderson plug on my 2013 7P, wondering if anyone has wiring diagram choosing best route from battery to rear of car for cable.
 
#3 ·
Peter,
There are fused points available next to the battery under the passenger seat.
Cabling is easier if you run into under the carpet from that point to the door sills/B pillar base, then follow the cabling route back, over the rear (left) wheel arch, and then into the cargo area from the rear left area.
This is the way we went with my R Line.
I'll send you something in a PM which may also help ;)
 
#12 ·
Peter,
There are fused points available next to the battery under the passenger seat.
Cabling is easier if you run into under the carpet from that point to the door sills/B pillar base, then follow the cabling route back, over the rear (left) wheel arch, and then into the cargo area from the rear left area.
This is the way we went with my R Line.
I'll send you something in a PM which may also help ;)
Hi Steve_L
I'm looking at doing this too for my 2015 V6 TDI 7P series. Did you run both positive and negative back to the Anderson Plug from the front of the battery compartment? I reckon this is essential to minimise voltage issues. I've never replaced my battery but looks to be a chore. How did you get the cables out of the false floor at the back of the luggage compartment to the outside under the car and next to the Anderson plug at tow point? Would love pics or more information on your set-up please. Thanks for sharing that cable data btw. Very Useful. It's important to account for both cable run lengths too - i.e. positive and negative. Slightly off topic but I'm also looking to install an Enerdrive DC-DC charger in the van later - It seems it requires an additional wire (for smart alternators) called an ignition sense wire which seems to be wired into the 12 pin trailer connector. Not sure where it goes at the front end of the car - probably ignition switch. I imagine this cable would need to be run together with the Anderson plug cables mentioned above . Any thoughts?

Robert
 
#5 ·
Peter - Here is what I have done sorry for the out of focus sometimes -- This is where I attached the CB ( the mounting is onto plastic so be gentle tightening the screws and use short screws-- did not know exactly what was behind it) and the wiring as you can see the wiring runs down the firewall/guard area - I used additional insulation split convolute tubing (Super cheap) - I used double insulated 16 sq mm wire because I had it on hand but 6 B&S is suitable. next shows the wiring run down secured to two pipes about 3/4 of the way down is a self tapping screw thread which I attached a half saddle to and secured with sika flex this keeps it away from the exhaust pipe. The termination is on the earth jumper start stud and the _ve os on a spare terminal in the +ve jumper start post.
The next shows the trim under which I ran the cable only need to undo the inner screws and poke it in it comes out at the aft end and can be run up behind the inner guard lining ( undo 3 screws to make it easy to run and attach it to the bumper bar plastic bracket next photo just shows the cable, then across the top of the tow bar and attach with cable ties -- I then made a bracket from 3 mm aluminium to extend the HR towbar bracket for easier access last photo -- I mounted a VSR ( Voltage sensing relay in the caravan 3 way fridge the Dc to Dc charger will isolate the vehicle battery if left connected with engine turned OFF both have a 12.8 volt cut-out - -- hope that helps -- please let me know if you want more info.
 

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#8 ·
I am in the process of running leads for a 120A Anderson plug and used a cable snake. Lift the passenger seat to access the battery look towards the back of the car under the carpet and you'll see a cable trunking that the snake with a bit of fiddling pushes straight into the boot on the LHS of the car. To get it through and into the boot I removed the bench seat which is a PITA due to the clips that lock the bench seat in. (3 x Little white clips that you have to lever towards the front to release the round bar frame of the bench seat) Then from under the bench where the seat and airbag cables run I could grab the end of the snake and thread it through to the LHS of the boot under the false floor. Tie the cable to the snake and pull it through. I have a spare 125A fuse that isn't connected to anything under there. I want to have a plug to run my kings dual thumper which pulls 90A. I also see that void under the false floor is quite large so I'm wondering what else could be stored under there. (DC-DC charger, etc)
 
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#9 ·
I am in the process of running leads for a 120A Anderson plug
I gather the running current is 90 amps @ 13.8 volts that you are referring to -- so what is the starting current ? I gather that you are running about 3AWG/B&S ( 25 -30 mm sq) size cable for a 3% Volt Drop which means that your device will actually be dragging 93+ amps from your system... since the alternator is only rated at 180 Amps @ 25 Deg C and considering all the other circuits that are drawing power you are probably close to your alternators max rating. So to prevent any spikes or faults being recorded for low voltage I would suggest that it may be prudent to remember to switch off as much as possible Aircon + Aircon system fans

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#15 ·
Robert,
I did not physically do the job myself.
I assisted a friend who can best be described as a Master Technician (in respect to his electrical knowledge and all round VW knowledge).
Reviewing the circuit diagram provided to me of the work he completed It appears that only the positive was run from the battery, back to the rear of the car, into a power distribution hub, which itself was earthed to an earth stud in the rear of the car. (Well that's what I am reading from the diagram)
The car was already fitted with a non-genuine "tow module" when I purchased it. From memory, we were able to go 'thru' the floor via an OEM grommet which is situated in the floor between the right rear tail light area and the right rear wheel arch.
As for the wiring of the DC/DC charger, I can see via the diagram that it is provided for from pin 9.
I'll try and get some photos for you soon.
 
#25 ·
#27 ·
Hi Guys I did an Anderson plug install just for my work trailer so I could run 12 volts continuously. I just ran 2 core flex for lower current so I can run low-power LED lights
phone charges and smaller 12-volt appliances with not too much current drain. I think it was 60 amps current rated not too big but bigger than the normal 20 amp red flex.
I was hooking up a UHF radio as well so I fused both off the same point. It was the best way to run it from the battery yeah it's a pain but it's better than running it under the car.
Heaps easier like someone said at the start of the thread. Just make your own nice earth point connect it to the battery direct add a fuse and holder on those 12-volt rail nuts and feed it under the carpet along the sides through the back seats stuff it into the panel's lots of room then feed just in the rear passenger light cables to the rear bumper.
Yeah, that's the worst bit but easy after that. Screw in your Anderson plug and you're all good. I can access the fuses without removing the seat too yes I used lateral thinking..lol

Anderson Plug outlet Fuse holder easy access Earth point see 60 amp flex 12 volts LED lights charger points 12-volt fittings
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Yeah its really easy running it from under the passenger seat rather than outside the body that would be a nightmare.Thanks :)