Hello all. I'm looking for the torque specs for my 2007 V10 TDI alternator drive flange. I replaced the oil seal due it leaking. It is a 10x1mm tread torque to yield type bolt I would assume. I've had no luck finding that spec. Thanks in advance for any help. The photo is the new seal installed with the drive sprocket not yet installed. It was brittle and torn at the outer black rubber part of the seal. It is an odd design seal in that the outer part of the seal is more like a bellows in that it allows the seal to move in and out slightly. That part is very thin.
![238680]( "238680")
thedoktor69
Alternator drive bolt torque for 2007 V10 TDI
Hello all. I'm looking for the torque specs for my 2007 V10 TDI alternator drive flange. I replaced the oil seal due it leaking. It is a 10x1mm tread torque to yield type bolt I would assume. I've had no luck finding that spec. Thanks in advance for any help. The photo is the new seal installed with the drive sprocket not yet installed. It was brittle and torn at the outer black rubber part of the seal. It is an odd design seal in that the outer part of the seal is more like a bellows in that it allows the seal to move in and out slightly. That part is very thin.
![238680]( "238680")
Just careful prying around the edges, first the outer ring, then the inner one. It may be necessary to cut the rubber connecting inner to outer in order to access the inner ring. As long as you stay away from the aluminum bores no harm done. I recall no difficulty at removing the old seal. It was driving in the inner metal cup that was nasty. Could be my block is undersized, or the first seal I ruined was oversize. I would say anyone who has oil leaking after replacing this seal did not fully drive the inner cup to into the block.
It is a standard thread, not left-handed. I used the biggest pair of channel locks I own to hold the sprocket with my right hand and a torque wrench as long as my arm in my left and then pretend you are Charles Atlas. It gives a crack after a minute or so. I had done the seal a few years back and forgotten how I took the sprocket off. So, this method works. I tried a 18V impact, holding the sprocket with channel locks and had no success with that, the battery may not be what it should be... A wrench as pictured above would be best to hold the sprocket, but I don't have one. I had a small leak in the valley and after reading lgibson's comments, I thought I would try to seat the inner ring of the seal a little more. I cut about a 1/2" thick piece of 1 1/2" pvc pipe and fitted it behind the sprocket and hand tightened the bolt holding everything in place until there was pressure against the piece of pvc pipe then I tightened it further with a ratchet until there was strong resistance. I think it moved a bit, a little hard to tell. I did not measure before and after, but I have about 7/16" to the end of the shaft from inner (closest to the shaft) metal edge of the seal. Hopefully that does it.
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