@LarryBeaut ignore the dice comment.

It's going to be hard for anyone to diagnose whether the head gasket is blown or if the heads have warped over the net.
What most can tell you is that if you lost coolant to that degree, you'll need to be sure all hoses are correctly replaced then have the coolant system vacuum filled with the proper coolant and tested for any leaks.
You'll also need to do an scan the vehicles modules for any stored codes, save the auto-scan, then reset the codes and see after that if the vehicle starts/drives/gets up to temp properly.

 

You need to bleed the air out of the coolant system with the proper procedure, or air expansion will keep pushing the coolant out and keep it from circulating, making it overheat and pressurize almost exactly like a blown head gasket, even if it's not blown. Hopefully that is your entire issue... but driving it without coolant was a big mistake, you shouldn't have done that.

There are two tests you can easily perform at home after proper bleeding and filling to confirm head gasket failure: a bubble test (look it up), and a combustion gas leak test. The latter is done with test strips or an indicator chemical you can purchase cheaply online.

Any mechanic that says "it's not worth fixing" without doing any diagnostic work is completely incompetent... don't even consider taking any vehicle to them ever.

 

It only takes a short time at 260 to ruin a lot of things.. if you pulled over everytime it was past halfway on the display you have a chance. The display is kinda fake.. it's straight up for running parameters of 200 to 230. That's why it suddenly races to the right as a stop now or else. Vw are known to have horrible bleed procedures to coolant.. the pump cavitates and turns to an air bubble makers. We would take mk4 vw and audi to a ramp of 40degrees to get the bubbles out of the heater core.. good luck..

 

if you pulled over everytime it was past halfway on the display you have a chance.

No you wouldn't- you will get massive hot spots that aren't anywhere near where the sensor is located. The sensor is actually on a coolant pipe outside of the engine, so isn't measuring anything at all if you have no coolant in the engine.

The coolant gauge isn't nearly as important as the coolant level sensor. As long as you have coolant in the engine, it is safely at or below the boiling point of the coolant. Once the coolant is low there is no telling how hot some parts of the engine are getting. I would never except in an emergency drive with the low coolant light on for more than the time it takes to safely pull off the road.

In my Touareg I typically drive with my OBDLink sending continuous coolant temp data to my phone, and my phone has an audible alarm which sounds if it gets above a reasonable threshold (I think 110C) so I could pull over and let it cool before way before it were to boil over. The OBD data isn't 'fake' like the gauge. I've only ever pulled over to let it cool once- climbing up the dirt road to the Cerro Gordo ghost town at 8500 feet altitude.

 

 

It like watching a baby Cow, wake up slowly.. just born yet so opinionated it can't find the nipple. I'm sure at least 25% of new post are users with fake profiles at this point. But ya never know

 

Omfg stop. There are zero auto parts stores that carry g13 coolant. Flush your coolant system and put the proper g13 in before you cause more damage.

 

100% agree. Most have "European purple" coolant. I don't trust it.

 

I can tell you more about many things but i cant read your mind. So you will have to elighten me about what more you are asking about. If your asking about ATE Super Blue DOT4 fluid i have not tried it and I cant find a "super blue DOT5.0" fluid listed anyware ?

 

Could you be more clear, I am sorry but I got confused along the way.. did you google it or use the search here? Thx

 

I googled it. Super blue 5.0 does not appear to exist. Please give me a reference if you have it. I could only find ATE super blue Dot4

 

First Time?

 

I am trying to have a sensible discussion on something you raised about brake fluids but it appears to be to difficult. It is also not really relevant to this thread so i will give up now and let you continue to reply to your own posts

 

First, this isn't my post, not the op,

I'm seriously going to feal bad for this troll.. hugs buddy. It was a trap. First day on the internet? I under stand...be well.

 

mmmmm ?????? one last try in respone to your last post of a photo of your truck which is not relevant to the discussion

Trap in what way ? You post something that is incorrect and cant admit it ? As for calling me a troll I think that is inappropriate

 

He really didn't get that troll. Color me not surprised....

 

Talking to yourself again ? Advertising is not allowed in posts on this site I believe

 

Are you winning son? That's company version is long gone, I retired long ago.

 

Don't care

 

I'm going to go out now on your advice and heat my rear springs with a touch to lower the rear. Thanks so much for the suggestion!

 

Before or after you rice things up some more with stick on CF?

 

Is that all you got, the basic vw purity test of factory or the highway? I ran a large vw club for about five years.. basically.. eat me.. I mad bank doing dash kits back in the day for dealers on new cars..

Thank you for the suggestion of the 140 sticky pads to clear my rotors.. who knew you could step out of that spotlight inshow you are staring in.. great advice

 

As far as i can tell he is insulting himself half the time

 

I trust you opion as much as I can toss you, then you follow me here.. lmao

 

We finally agree on something.