https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/MC-10121265-9999.pdf

 

This is what the vw dealership states they have done and it passed without any issues found.

 

That is impossible. Do it yourself or go to a competent mechanic.

 

That’s what I was thinking too. It’s currently at the vw dealership only because the battery was under warranty. I’ll call the mechanic I normally use and get it into them to check.

 

Sure you didn't. Go sped $35 at erwin and download yourself wiring diagrams. Study them find whatever UNFUSED circuit your vehicle has, and go disconnect that... if you believe the BS that you're being told.

 

Why are you being argumentative? What point does it serve? What they were saying doesn’t make sense, but until I have my regular mechanic look at it, I was asking for suggestions and thoughts on the issue. If you said you didn’t think they did a competent job on the fuse test, I would have seconded that opinion. All I have to go on is what the vw dealership has told me. It’s being picked up today so I can bring it to my normal mechanic next week when they’re open.

 

Why are you being argumentative?

Because you asked for suggestions only to NOT take them.
Why did you ask for help if you didn't want any?

 

Hello,
On my 2007 vw touareg 3.6, the battery was replaced last year by the dealership. Then months later we had the dreaded timing chain issue whych led to a new timing chain and rebuilt engine earlier this year.
Recently, the battery started dying. It was fully recharged and reconditioned and then would die a few days later. We took it to the dealership who swapped out the batteries, supoosedly didnt find any unusual error codes, and did a drain test checking the fuses and it cleared the test without issue, but the battery is still showing a slow drain.
Does anyone have any thoughts on what may be causing the drain?
The dealership wants to tear apart the dash and test that area but wants 600.00 mlre just to try to possibly find what they havent be able to find with multiple days of testing. I’n hoping someone might know what could be causing this if when the fuse test passes.
Thank you!

With multiple modules on these vehicles it could be anywhere.
You said the dealership did the drain test checking the fuses. Did they give you a readout of the current draw on the circuit of the ones they tested?

 

Thank you! I’ll ask for that when I pick it up today!

 

They got you by the balls now... Might as well go get the lube and start prepping.

 

I have a sneaking suspicion that parasitic draw is caused by something simple. It usually is. But the dealership for lack of whatever they lack decided to conduct a fishing expedition.
I cannot tell you what caused the parasitic draw which you didn't have before engine work or new battery installation. But something tells me it ain't electronics...

Cheers...

 

My parents’ old ‘05 A6 has a parasitic draw. It will discharge sufficiently after 4-5 days that you won’t be able to start the car.

pulled every fuse. Parasitic draw continues. My father just drives it every 2 days, and has a battery on backup, plus a charging station in the garage.

Wish I had a solution to share!

 

pulled every fuse. Parasitic draw continues.

I'd love to hear more detail on this so that I could get some free education in troubleshooting.

 

pulled every fuse. Parasitic draw continues.

And this is a reason I come here...free education!

 

Negative.... I actually want to know

 

There isn't much to it - hooked up a voltmeter to measure current draw. After some time, tried pulling fuses, only one at a time, to see if the drain would diminish.

There were some questions left unanswered after, though - some say wait 30 minutes for the modules to go to sleep, some say wait 2 hours. Opening the door will cause the modules to wake up, of course - tried leaving the car alone for 30 minutes with the door open so we could have access to the fuses.

Then, came across another bit of info that pulling and reinserting fuses will wake up modules, at which point, troubleshooting becomes a crapshoot. I likely am missing some steps or process here, but we haven't revisited the situation yet.

 

So you have no clue what you're doing, and you didn't read post #2 with all the info, and unsurprisingly, you didn't diagnose eff all.... excellent.

 

uhmm... exactly. unless i could travel in time to read your post #2, no sir, i did not read it before doing the test two years ago. now that I've been blessed with the info from post #2, I can revisit the test perhaps.

 

The point is, you're not following correct documentation or proper procedures and are simply doing random crap that other butchers on various forums are telling you to do. If you would've googled "how to check parasitic draw" or anything along those lines, even years ago, you would've come across ways to do it, and I doubt many of them would've mentioned pulling out fuses.

 

I agree, I was learning this process, and unfortunately, did not come across the right information. I have zero electrical background. My father ended up taking it to the mechanic, who was not able to poinpoint at any particular circuit or module - can't speak to his testing methods though.

I'm keen however to try again using the right method.

 

Get a multimeter and follow the instructions.

 

The video that someone posted in post #2 is very good at helping to find parasitic drains. It has been passed around on here in different threads. It's a slow and sometimes tedious process but also thorough.

 

It seems that the headlight modules of 2005 Touaregs have a problem with brittle insulation that can flack off and cause a periodic short. My battery failed twice and I only found the problem when the headlight module lightts failed. Good luck.