Here is a picture of my 2008 v10 showing the tandem pumps

 

I just love stuff like this.
Priceless.

regards
Drag

 

Yea, its a myth that you have to drop the engine or lower it in any way to get access, i had no issues at all

 

.

 

i would put 4 total if you have all the replacement gaskets ready to go, i'm going to replace fuel filters too.
Don't forget to prime your fuel using vag-com otherwise she'll crank a long time.

 

Update, looks like she's leaking again, the gasket alone did not stop the leak. The pump is leaking also between the diesel and vacuum sections
Need a new pump and disassembly/reassembly

 

Final update,

New pump fixed it all, no leaks, no issues.
Got it from ecstuning.com for ~420$

 

Final update,

New pump fixed it all, no leaks, no issues.
Got it from ecstuning.com for ~420$

Well done.
Did you look to see if the pump can be resealed between the sections?
Just asking, best bet is always new pump.

Regards
Drag

 

I opened the old pup the culprit seems to be a sealing gasket between the fuel and vac pumps, wonder if we could get only this gasket from LUK (the oem manufacturer)

 

What is the gasket made of steel or other
i thought it would have been an ORing.
Seems like you should be able to reseal the halves

regards
Drag

 

gasket is a rubber one spec'd to the shape of the housing, not a simple o-ring nor metallic one

 

Hiya. what is the sealing gasket made of? Perhaps getting a batch made might be an idea.
I am about to embark on this task and given my luck I can predict what I'll find.

 

Argghh. Just read the follow ups.

Rubber eh? Shouldn't be a big problem.

Why, oh why can't manufacturers provide comprehensive spares?

 

Gasket is made out of metal, i tried with gasket only but that didnt help, issue is between the vac and fuel pump, gasket there is rubber. And that one isnt sold anywhere.

 

On the earlier 1.9 ALH TDI engines, it just so happens that a BRM (later 1.9TDI) oil filter oring is about the same size as the seal between the vacuum pump halves. Not sure if there is an analog for PD engines, but it certainly bears investigating!

 

I suppose that what we need to know is...
1. Diameter of the O-Ring material. Make sure that is does not vary along it's length.
2. Cut an old one and get the length, from that we get the diameter.
3. Sample of material, just in case.

 

On second thought, once we have the length we could cut a length of suitable material and joint it with a clever modern adhesive.

 

Material should probably be viton.

 

...
These are the steps i took to get to it
1- Drain your oil from bottom oil plug
2- Remove oil filter and oil filter housing held by 4 bolts, then you can remove the right boost hose, the electrical flap and EGR valve of that right intake.
3- Remove coolant hose in front of thermostat housing so to drain just some coolant, not all
4- Remove oil cooler hoses for alternator and fuel
5- Take off clamps holding the fuel lines and remove all 4 at back of fuel filter (this assumes you have the dual fuel filter and not the 2006+ single unit) and take off the 2 bolts holding the fuel pod, all then comes off easy
6- Unplug right hand side glow plug harness, just pull as straight as possible on glow plug connector on each cyl = 5
7- Remove fuel rail bolts and unplug fuel hoses on it, pull straight again and it will come off
8- You can now remove the right intake as well
9- Now you will have sufficient access to get to the 2x 6mm Hex bolts holding the tandem pump and also 1 x 10mm screw, total of 3 bolts holding it. Use a mirror to see them if you need to or by feel/touch
...

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but am planning on tackling this myself soon and had a couple questions. Can those who have done this check the parts list and possibly give torque values for reinstalling the components?

Parts list:
tandem pump - 07Z145209D
tandem pump gasket - 070145215
fuel filters w/gasket - 18034-01190096
oil
oil filter
oil filter housing gasket - 07Z115441E
intake manifold gaskets? - 07Z129717A
Are there fuel rail gaskets?
Anything else?

torque values
pump bolts - ???
fuel canister - 10NM for cover, 5NM for bleed screw
air intake manifold - ???
Oil filter housing - ???
Fuel rail bolts - ???

Thanks!
-Nick

 

For follow-up since replies to my inquiry were limited:

Part numbers were verified through Discount OEM VW Parts & Accessories | Volkswagen Parts Nation (and double checked through other parts sources).

Was able to find the torque specs using the following two links:

http://vwts.ru/engine/bkw_bwf/bkw_bwf_5_0_touareg_eng.pdf

workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/touareg/v10-5.0l_dsl_turbo_(bkw)/

 

2004 V10, had a misbehaving tandem pump (only two years old), replaced it with a new one. It worked well for two days but started all the old symptoms again (rough idle, loss of brake pressure at high speeds/ after frequent accelerations, and brakes becoming hard after numerous overtakes (foot-to-floor). Also, this time I have the oil leak as you mentioned, dripping down the back of the engine onto the protector underneath and running along the transmission hoses and the transmission pan.
Could a lose bolt cause it? I didn't know engine oil went into the fuel and vacuum pump. I had a thorough look at my old pump but didn't see any place for oil (it can't mix with fuel); perhaps the gasket? Afraid the mechanic wasn't thorough: he wanted to remove the engine but only after showing him much evidence on the internet, he unwillingly agreed, maybe he didn't tighten the bolts enough?

 

I'm not sure on the brake pressure issues.

The oil leak from the pump can easily come from both a loose bolt or an over-tightened (stripped) bolt. Mine was the latter, and re-tapping is a PITA with the engine insitu. with the aluminum head, need to be careful not to overtorque the bolts. Really the problem is if the pump is removed with the engine insitu, there is no way (no room) to torque the bolts to spec - only be feel.

With my pump leak, I did not observed poor idle or brake pressure issues. Only the oil leak. I replaced the pump while I had it out (as well as the other DS fuel pump). My thoughts on your experience is the rough idle and brake pressure issues are not related to tandem pump oil leak?

best of luck

 

I'd tend to agree with you but the brake pressure, especially at high speeds (getting spongy), and after numerous hard accelerations (getting hard) sounds very like a vacuum problem to me. There are no leaks.
I've recently changed brake fluid and front pads. I haven't tested it on highway yet, but it's possible new brake fluid (after more than 3 years) might be the culprit, but still won't explain the hard brakes... confused.

 

I have the same problem on my 06 V10 TDI. Oil drips on exhaust and smells bad when its hot. I found a rebuilt kit on eBay but can't post a link to it.

 

I, after two "re-builds" and one change of tandem pump discovered that the problem is all in fixing. I haven't got pictures but a few tips, in case it may help someone:
1. you can remove all the "fake firewall" sections (between engine and the 'plenum' chamber housing ECUs, wiper mechanisms, etc.). There are three sections. My mechanic removed all three an that helped greatly (only complication when fixing back is scratching on arms due to hard to reach clips).
2. I've tried both genuine and some other brand gaskets. I didn't find any difference in the two, though the second (genuine) worked better, but that might be due to careful assembly.
3. Since only three bolts hold the pump to the block, reccommend screwing each bolt by hand without and then with pump in place to get a good "feel".
4. Factory repair manual reccomends very low torques. I recommend tightning all three bolts in cross pattern by hand until you feel them "snug" and then tightning one by one each of them to as tight as you can with hand. Then using a torque wrench you'll see you've already reached recommended torque: I went a little over the recommended but don't go too far. This is the most critical part: only hand tightened and there's a chance they'll come lose, and just a little tight and you'd have distorted the steel gasket.... hence the need to get a good "feel" without by tightening bolts without pump, with pump but not gasket, and with both...
5. Someone on these forums recommends Hylomer Blue gasket compound. My mechanic didn't like the "feel" of it hte first time, so he dropped it in favour of normal gasket sealant, which burnt very soon. The second time I had experimented with Hylomer Blue on various materials--it doesn't "set" so will always feel tacky to touch, but a very thin layer layed about 6 hours before (or even a day before but keep it covered so it doesn't catch dust, stray hair, etc.). Probably a spray-on variant would be better.

 

When I did this job the one thing I would have done differently would be a ultra thin layer of motorcraft diesel sealant/gasket maker make for the powerstroke diesel. It's probably the best sealant on the market and is make special for diesels that are prone to leaking (Ford).

 

I'm about to fix the smoking issue on the passenger side of my '04 t-reg TDI... wish me luck! I guess I should just replace the tandem pump, but I do see I can order a kit from Europe (I'm in Seattle). Is rebuilding as good as new?


It would be nice to save some money... and I'm pretty handy at car work -- I'm doing the thermostat, alternator (maybe hihachi upgrade), kessy, batteries and tandom pump all in one go... yikes!

 

I'm about to fix the smoking issue on the passenger side of my '04 t-reg TDI... wish me luck! I guess I should just replace the tandem pump, but I do see I can order a kit from Europe (I'm in Seattle). Is rebuilding as good as new?


It would be nice to save some money... and I'm pretty handy at car work -- I'm doing the thermostat, alternator (maybe hihachi upgrade), kessy, batteries and tandom pump all in one go... yikes!

If your pump works and just leaks oil I would just replace the gasket not the whole pump. I replaced the whole pump which had less then 40k miles but should of replaced just the gasket. I did it with out taking the engine out. There are only 3 bolts holding that pump.