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Noob...right on the money on legging.
 
Hi all i see with interest. But it appears no one has detailed the size, weight, and ball load weight of their caravan. This is of particular interest to me.. My Caravan is 3040 kg with 280 kg ball weight. Vehicle MY13 4XMOTION. I have towed approx 250 km but it doesn't feel as comfortable as my 200 series LC. With a WDH. I don't intend to use a WDH with this set up. But has anyone had any experience with anti sway controls eg Alco friction systems?
 
Hi Angry

re towing I have the previous model Touareg, but have a Geist caravan (German origin) which has a similar chassis and ball configuration to the Bailey you have (though made by BPW rather than Alko it works in much the same way).

For towing i just let the auto do the job, although six speed whereas yours is eight speed, none of the gears are 1:1 ratio anyhow. Have found that the gearbox does better than I do in picking the correct gear. After all that is what the towing package does, with the VW OE electronics the shift points and a number of other parameters are changed when towing. However this would not apply to an after market electronics package!

One thing I have noticed is that with the OE tow bar on mine, and the OE hitch that the ball is considerably closer to the rear wheel axle than with a HR setup with the longer shafts for the weight distribution set up.

I think from memory it was something like 350 to 450 mm extra, with the OE ball being under 1m from the rear axle that is a large difference - up to 50% more. The further the ball from the rear axle then the greater the inherent instability and the leverage effect from the ball weight. That is why a fifth wheeler is so much more stable as it does not have the double pendulum effect of an overhung hitch.

Also aiding stability on the Treg is the wheelbase length (greater than a LC 200 etc).

The Bailey hitch uses the Alko stabiliser which has a special ball with flange piece to prevent it spinning along with in effect friction brake pads which operate on the ball to help counteract any sway. Along with the ATC that your van would have, and a light tow ball weight (around 100 - 150 kgs?) you should not have any problems with leaving it to the auto to do the job.
In terms of rpms, even at 1500 rpm the torque is still quite high, even if not at the maximum, so for cruising it should be fine.

Johannes

although my van use a BPW hitch and chassis, essentially it is very similar to the ALKO one. It certainly works on the lighter European vans and my experience with it over the past 8 years has been good. The hitch friction system is different to the ATC on the Bailey that I mentioned above.

The hitch anti sway consists of a special ball and mount with friction pads in the hitch to act as a brake on the side to side movement of the van.

ATC is the mechanical version of Alkos trailer control system and was developed to suit Euro vans with over ride brakes. The ESC that Alko has released on the Australian market is for use with the electric brake systems so commonly used here on Aus built vans. They apply the vans brakes to correct a sway when detected by the sensing mechanism.

Have a look at this link
AL-KO – Electronic Stability Control (ESC)
I think the video best explains it. A search of You tube will find other examples. In your situation I would probably be having a look at both the hitch system and the ESC.

Hope this helps, remember my experience is with the 7L model (6 speed) not the 7P (8 speed)/

Peter
 
Peter, I am somewhat perplexed about your measurements VW hith v HR 350mm to 450mm seems unlikely 450 is close to 1/2 a meter maybe you ment 35 to 45 mm, anyway, I have overcome this by having the shank re drilled bringing the distance closer by 65mm..My question re sway controls was the friction control units available as an after market product I don't require a ESC product as this is part of the VW’s electrics
 
I have the 7L Touareg and we tow a 23' Crusader Manhattan (3050kg). Currently, the van is at the dealership, but we are scheduled to collect it this Friday (has been in for warranty issues/repairs). I can't recall all the specs off the compliance plate, so will post those details next weekend.

We use the Eaze-lift WDH system, with a Tekonsha P3 brake controller. Again...I'll post up pictures and further specs next weekend when the big girl comes back home.

Towing wise...I generally let the automatic side of the box do it's thing, but from time to time, will slip to 'manual' so as to not hold up traffic behind me.

I generally run the combination at 90/95km/h...returning an average 14 - 16lt/100km.

So far ...VERY happy with the performance of the V6 TDI. The combination certainly draws some comments about the Touareg's perceived inability to pull such a rig. It makes a lot of believers out of non-believers.
 
Peter, I am somewhat perplexed about your measurements VW hith v HR 350mm to 450mm seems unlikely 450 is close to 1/2 a meter maybe you ment 35 to 45 mm, anyway, I have overcome this by having the shank re drilled bringing the distance closer by 65mm..My question re sway controls was the friction control units available as an after market product I don't require a ESC product as this is part of the VW’s electrics
Johannes
I think you may have misunderstood the function of the ALKO ESC and the Touareg electrics with the tow pack. My apologies for not explaining this clearly.

The VW tow pack affects the Touareg itself, including auto shift points, braking etc, and works on the Treg only.

The ALKO ESC is a seperate system on the Caravan that senses a sway in the van and applies the van's brakes, and does not affect the cars brakes.
the two would work to compliment each other, not as alternatives but operating on different parts of the rig (car and van).

In that sense the ALKO stabiliser hitches operate on the connection between car and van and again compliment rather than act as an alternative to the electronic stability aids.

From that point of view, I recommend and have found very useful the equivalent BPW stabiliser hitch (equivalent to the ALKO hitch) for use with my much lighter Euro Van (around 1500KG). How well they would work with a van twice the weight, I cannot say. I doubt it would hurt though :D

Overall I think that stability can very much be aided by reducing the overall mass of the towed van, and many people argue that the van mass should be less than the towing vehicle. Not sure I agree, but if that were the case then most vans on Australian roads would be too heavy for the vehicles towing them.

In relation to the distances, yes I did mean 350 to 450 mm. On mine the distance from rear axle centre line to towball centre is 930mm. Following some data gathering Collyn Rivers has posted on Caravanners forum Caravaners Forum • View topic - Caravan Stability Update the rear overhang can be quite considerable ... as the average overhang (based on data provided many members of this forum) seems to be about 1.33 m and the highest I am aware of (for a extended chassis ute (seen in Pt Stephen) exceeded two metres - and was pulling a roughly 7 metre long van! There is also a surprising amount added by some tow ball inserts - most add about 100 mm but one adds 485 mm! (from the above posted link)

Having compared HR set ups with the factory setup on mine, the overhang with the HR is quite a bit more, 350 mm is only around 1.25m which is short for a LC for example. The factory towball insert also helps with the length too, being around 50mm compared to the shortest aftermarket insert I could find (at Repco at a cheap price) that added over 150mm. As I use this for the dump trailer I have not bothered to shorten it, but it does indicate how long some of these normally are.

Might add that my towbar is a factory fit under the spare wheel carrier and is very close to the body - I have attached a photo in this thread http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f67/towbar-question-spare-wheel-carrier-fitted-86605.html and as you can see the towball is tucked well in, and with the short overhang on the Treg I believe stability is enhanced.

Hope this helps
Peter
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Thanks to all for their thoughts and contributions, a lot of interesting and useful info…
Just returned from a 200klm trip with the van on the back.
The 1st 100klm I used manual mode and kept the tacho around 2000rpm, the engine and transmission (in 6th) all sounded sweet at that speed and I was sitting around 95klm/hr most of the time.
Got an average of 12ltr/100klm.
Coming home I used Sport mode which again by and large kept the transmission in 6th & 7th and the occasional drop to 5th.
The tacho was generally sitting at about 2200rpm, I did get up to 100klm/hr in quite a few spots
Got an average coming home of 11.8ltr/100klm.
Very happy with the feel of the car, it feels very solid and stable even at 100klm (no swaying around, thanks to the Alko ATC?) and it all sounds far better than when I was towing in 'D' mode with the engine on 1500rpm/8th gear…

So in future I think I will in general stick with 'Sports' mode and perhaps use Manual on steep hills to hold the revs etc.

Thanks again for all the input, especially to Peter for all the in depth detail...
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Actually I just checked the pics of the Tregs stats that I took at the end of the trip and I got the numbers above wrong! (How come we can't edit the post afterwards???)
Anyway, the true (??? According to VW) figs for the trip (towing a 2ton caravan) are
11ltr/100klm going and 10.8ltr/100klm on the return journey - very happy with that! :)
 
You can edit, but only for 30 minutes and then it's on the www for e-ternity!
 
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