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ea105

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I currently own a 2016 SEL Golf mk7 sportwagen TDI ( mexico holdback model) which is great and I plan to keep forever. I'm considering getting a Touareg as a second vehicle which will be used for excursions including going off-road.
I'm trying to decide which Treg to choose ( if at all). The TDI gets great mpg's but doesn't have air suspension or a rear locker, both of which are very desirable to me however the HPFP time bomb is something that is obviously of great concern. I'm ok with having things break which can reasonably be repaired but the HPFP detonation is not something I want to risk.

1) for the TDI, is there a replacement pump which has updated internals can be installed which reduces the risk substantially ? If so I would consider getting a TDI Treg and proactively replace the pump. What is the consensus mileage at which the timing chains typically need to be serviced ( worn guides ) ?

2) the early V8 model has a timing belt (good), but has chains which drive the camshafts and the tensioner guides are plastic ( horrible design ) . If I find a V8 model which sounds ands runs great, then I plan to replace the tensioners proactively before they wear down to the point of damaging the valves

3) later v8's have timing chains, I'm probably going to shy away from these models because of the complexity of changing them out, unless there is a consensus that these motors go 200k without any issues with the chains.

Alternate vehicles I'm looking at are FJ Cruiser ( very capable but over double the price and only slightly better mpg than the v8 Treg), Landcruiser 100 series ( same mpg as a Treg but over twice the price and no rear locker )

What other gotcha design flaws are there with the gen1 Tregs to look for ?

BTW, my previous 4x4 was a T3 syncro with front,center and rear lockers

Thanks for any guidance
 
There's good and bad with everything.

Get a v10 TDI... no timing belt and it can be had with both air and locker.... you just need to deal with the rest of the timebombs.....

If you're not going to do hardcore offroading, get a late model TDI that still has plenty of extended emissions coverage.
If that's not in the budget, get a 2010 which can be found with air.....
If you want to do more serious stuff, get an early gasser which can be had with air and rear locker and will be much cheaper to fix when you break stuff

At the end of the day, you can't have everything... so pick your poison.
 
I have a 2010 TDi with Air and love it. Just don’t know where to take it for light off-roading in the Northern Virginia region.

Maybe will finally visit Shenandoah Valley for the first time and see what’s out there this Fall.


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Discussion starter · #4 ·
In my market ( Mexico ) the only T-regs with rear lockers or air suspension that I've found are the V8's ( no V10's here), and from what I've read just changing the alternator on the V10 is a huge expensive job, so no thanks.

So unless there is way to reasonably prevent the hpfp catastrophe with the V6 tdi I will probably go for the early V8 model. At least the cam tensioners can be changed without engine removal. I have little faith in "lifetime" timing chains when they include plastic chain guides.
I believe all V6's have timing chains ?

Here I can buy a V8 with air suspension and rear locker with 80k miles for $7k, which allows plenty for preventative maintenance and fuel :) I'm only driving it 10k miles per year anyway so fuel isn't the deal breaker.

Direct gasoline fuel injection is also something I'm weary about with the carbon buildup on the valves , is this true ?

Anyone here with an early V8 T-reg with lots of miles ? Would like to hear about issues...

Thanks
 
Here's a pic of the tensioners of a known '08 V6 with over 200K kms on the clock.
The tensioners showed no noticeable wear as the owner, who is very fastidious, was prepared to replace them if at all necessary.
The chains were also checked for stretch and were all good.
I know this is only one example however in over 8 years on this forum I cannot recall anyone mentioning issues with chains or tensioners.

TonyB
233522
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Ok good to see. So if I find a timing chain model with low miles I may consider it since I won't be driving it too much. I found a 2010 V6 tdi with 30k miles for $11k. I would be willing to sacrifice the air suspension and rear locker IF I felt comfortable with the hpfp risk. Is there any data on failure rate....1 in 50, 1 in 100 ?

Since it will out of warranty, the car will pretty much be totaled if the hpfp detonates and good for parts only, no way I'm going to spend over 10k plus to repair it.
 
I only know very little about this HPFP issue with the 2010 TDi models. Isn’t this covered under the new revised and extended warranty after the TDi recall fixes?

What are ways to check or signs to look for that you may be driving one of the unlucky ones?

Gee I have a 2010 and now you guys are making me worried lol although I don’t do more than 10k miles annually.


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I only know very little about this HPFP issue with the 2010 TDi models. Isn’t this covered under the new revised and extended warranty after the TDi recall fixes?

What are ways to check or signs to look for that you may be driving one of the unlucky ones?

Gee I have a 2010 and now you guys are making me worried lol although I don’t do more than 10k miles annually.


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No way AFAIK to check possible signs of impending issues with the HPFP, best practice is to treat the pump as a consumable item and replace the pump at somewhere around the 200K kms mark as a few of us have done and to add a lubricity additive to your tank at each fuel up.
It seems main culprit causing failures is the lack of lubrication due to the removal of sulphur in ulta low sulphur diesel and of course the design of the Bosch CP4 pump used in the pre 2011 (7L) models, interestingly the lack of HPFP failures in the 7P models which use an upgraded Bosch pump is noticeable.
If you do a search here there is quite an in depth tread on HPFP's.

TonyB
 
Short answer is NO.

Believe pump delivers pressure not suitable to the 7L 3.0 engine.

TonyB
 
I don't know what the fuel quality is like in Mexico, so lubricity may or may not be a factor there. (HPFP related)
You can get the v8s with sequential or direct injection.... the v8s will be easier to find with both Air and Locker
I don't understand why you are worried about 200k reliability when you say you're only going to drive 10k a year and are looking at models with 80k on the clock.... do you plan on keeping your offroad rig for 12 more years without it needing maintenance?
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
I don't know what the fuel quality is like in Mexico, so lubricity may or may not be a factor there. (HPFP related)
You can get the v8s with sequential or direct injection.... the v8s will be easier to find with both Air and Locker
I don't understand why you are worried about 200k reliability when you say you're only going to drive 10k a year and are looking at models with 80k on the clock.... do you plan on keeping your offroad rig for 12 more years without it needing maintenance?
[/QUOTE

Low sulphur diesel has only recently become standard here. I have 30k on my 16 Golf tdi with diesel here, so far no issues. I'm hoping to find a rig which will require normal maintenance and repairs, but no major repairs which cost more than the vehicle is worth.

Going to look at a 2006 V8 with air and locker with 80k miles tomorrow, it looks brand new.
 
Low sulphur diesel has only recently become standard here. I have 30k on my 16 Golf tdi with diesel here, so far no issues.
My 2010 Jetta TDI daily driver is at 258k up here in Canada and it's been fed ULSD all its life.... still hasn't exploded.... and I run it down to just fumes each and every tank...... (but I keep on top of fuel filters and I use a lubricity additive) There's a lot more to HPFPs failing than all just the pump design.... people missfuel, don't change filters, get tainted\old fuel from shady stations, etc...... or maybe I got lucky and I have the ONE good pump out of the batch?
 
No way AFAIK to check possible signs of impending issues with the HPFP, best practice is to treat the pump as a consumable item and replace the pump at somewhere around the 200K kms mark as a few of us have done and to add a lubricity additive to your tank at each fuel up.
It seems main culprit causing failures is the lack of lubrication due to the removal of sulphur in ulta low sulphur diesel and of course the design of the Bosch CP4 pump used in the pre 2011 (7L) models, interestingly the lack of HPFP failures in the 7P models which use an upgraded Bosch pump is noticeable.
If you do a search here there is quite an in depth tread on HPFP's.

TonyB
200K Kms huh, I'm only at 138K Kms here in USA East Coast so I guess I will worry about this later. I'll do more research on this next year as right now I'm focused on fixing a few small quirks that I haven't ironed out yet with mine since I bought it. And when you say add a lubricity additive to my tank, should I be doing this now or do you mean when I'm close to 200K Kms? And I always thought adding these different liquids/cleaning agents to fuel tanks were just gimmicks and actually hurt your vehicle more than it helped. If I should be adding, I don't mind but what do you guys add? Any brands or type I can buy on Amazon?


As above, use good quality fuel and never run the tank less than 1/4 full as returned fuel needs to cool.
What do you mean by use a good quality fuel? All the stations around me where I live in Arlington, Virginia have pretty much the same Diesel with this #40 on it. I've never seen a different number type of Diesel at any of the stations. Are some brand gas stations better than others? For Gasoline, I thought this was the case but not for Diesel. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
And when you say add a lubricity additive to my tank, should I be doing this now or do you mean when I'm close to 200K Kms?
Do you want to reduce wear from the start, or only IF and when you reach 200k?

What do you mean by use a good quality fuel?
A large station that goes through a lot of diesel. You don't want old diesel, and if they sell a lot of volume, they hopefully also service their filters regularly, etc.
 
Do you want to reduce wear from the start, or only IF and when you reach 200k?


A large station that goes through a lot of diesel. You don't want old diesel, and if they sell a lot of volume, they hopefully also service their filters regularly, etc.
Lol okay I see now, understood. Thank you sir! Will start buying additives for my fuel tank now and yes, majority of these stations around the DC area are very very high volume.
 
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