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Diesel Fuel Additive for 2013 Touareg V6 TDI

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#101 ·
been using power service for about 10 years....recently tried hot shots diesel products...Blew my mind it actually makes it run smoother and better. Im hooked and will keep using their stuff
 
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#102 ·
Would any of the additives described above have any intentional or unintentional benefits for long term (6-9 month) storage?

Reason for the ask: relocating outside the US for a few years, but keeping a residence (with appropriate garaging..) where the touareg will live. Because the TDIs have tanked so much in value, and we had always planned on keeping it forever, we thought we'd keep it stored. Lots of 'fuel stabilizers' for gassers, but not much for diesels. I know diesel tends to be more stable than gas, but just want to take every reasonable precaution to ensure it's driveable every time we're home.

Thx in advance, and hoping not to hijack..
 
#103 ·
PRI-D is an excellent diesel fuel additive and stabilizer. It's mainly a commercial grade product, but can be found/ordered in consumer sizes. I have been using it for years on all my vehicles, including fuel in long term storage.
 
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#104 · (Edited)
agravadr said:
Would any of the additives described above have any intentional or unintentional benefits for long term (6-9 month) storage?

Reason for the ask: relocating outside the US for a few years, but keeping a residence (with appropriate garaging..) where the touareg will live. Because the TDIs have tanked so much in value, and we had always planned on keeping it forever, we thought we'd keep it stored. Lots of 'fuel stabilizers' for gassers, but not much for diesels. I know diesel tends to be more stable than gas, but just want to take every reasonable precaution to ensure it's driveable every time we're home.

Thx in advance, and hoping not to hijack..
Click to expand...
You could but the key is to keep it cool. I suggest filling tank up full. Diesel can be stored from 6-12 months depending on conditions.

https://www.bp.com/content/dam/bp-country/en_au/media/fuel-news/long-term-storage-diesel.pdf

This looks like a decent product:

PRI-D Diesel Fuel Treatment
 
#107 ·
agravadr said:
Would any of the additives described above have any intentional or unintentional benefits for long term (6-9 month) storage?

Reason for the ask: relocating outside the US for a few years, but keeping a residence (with appropriate garaging..) where the touareg will live. Because the TDIs have tanked so much in value, and we had always planned on keeping it forever, we thought we'd keep it stored. Lots of 'fuel stabilizers' for gassers, but not much for diesels. I know diesel tends to be more stable than gas, but just want to take every reasonable precaution to ensure it's driveable every time we're home.

Thx in advance, and hoping not to hijack..
Click to expand...
Sta-bil makes a diesel formula. I've never heard of a problem with diesel fuel getting old like gasoline, aside from algae growth. Sta-bil claims it lubricates the fuel as well. I bought a bottle for every diesel I have, not so much because I think it does anything useful, but I've never found anything better than Sta-bil bottles for dosing the additive of your choice. In my case, I use Stanadyne Lubricity Formula. Unfortunately, there is no commercially available biodiesel in my state.
 
#108 ·
I use a biocide (I think it is called BugOut) that keeps alge, slime and other nasty stuff from growing in your fuel. Very useful where ANY diesel is put in a tank in long term storage. I have had diesel in my old International TD6 cat for as much as 10 years and have no stuff plugging the filter. [I do drain any water from the filter bowl]
It is pretty concentrated - a quart is enough to treat several hundred gallons.
 
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#109 ·
To be clear, Sta-bil is not a biocide, but I understand that they make one. It claims to prevent the formation of algae and fungal growth, however.

We store fuel on-site due to the distance to our closest filling station, but we have to rotate it our every six months due to the need to switch from #1 to #2 and back again every season. We have never had bio problems in this storage tank.

I had to use biocide on a couple Scepter 20L Jerry cans that I bought on craigslist. Very effective, but I hope to not do it again.
 
#110 ·
As a retired marine engineer with a career of feeding anything from boilers to diesels to gas turbines, my experiences with stale, and contaminated fuels has led me to treat the fuel used in my personal diesel vehicles.
I have had full success in avoiding any problems since 1985 using commercial products (rather than consumer grade). I maintenance dose with both PRI-D (and Bio-Bor, as a biocide), in both my vehicles (each fill up) and also my stored fuel (annually). These products are extremely concentrated and only require dosing at a rate of about 1:2000, so are easily added, effective and economical.
I have found keeping the fuel free of water to be 99% of the battle, as the majority of biological growth takes place on the interface, and regular dosing will immediately treat all new fuel for residual contamination. Although bio-diesel has great lubricity, it is the residual ethanol (part of the manufacturing process) that is hydroscopic, and radically aids in the introduction of water into your fuel tank.
If you are concerned, some interesting reading on the subject is here: http://www.hpcdfuel.com/pdf/DOWfuel_training.pdf
 
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#111 ·
roalco said:
As a retired marine engineer with a career of feeding anything from boilers to diesels to gas turbines, my experiences with stale, and contaminated fuels has led me to treat the fuel used in my personal diesel vehicles.
I have had full success in avoiding any problems since 1985 using commercial products (rather than consumer grade). I maintenance dose with both PRI-D (and Bio-Bor, as a biocide), in both my vehicles (each fill up) and also my stored fuel (annually). These products are extremely concentrated and only require dosing at a rate of about 1:2000, so are easily added, effective and economical.
I have found keeping the fuel free of water to be 99% of the battle, as the majority of biological growth takes place on the interface, and regular dosing will immediately treat all new fuel for residual contamination. Although bio-diesel has great lubricity, it is the residual ethanol (part of the manufacturing process) that is hydroscopic, and radically aids in the introduction of water into your fuel tank.
If you are concerned, some interesting reading on the subject is here: http://www.hpcdfuel.com/pdf/DOWfuel_training.pdf
Click to expand...
You are correct and I should have clarified that I use Biodiesel not for storage purposes. I drive mine daily and never store the vehicle. I mentioned Biodiesel as it is the only additive I use in the tank on a regular basis. I also buy filtered diesel from pacific pride which has 30 micron filters on the fillers. Biodiesel has a higher affinity toward moisture content than petroleum diesel, and the water retaining capacity of biodiesel is higher than diesel. The water content in fuels can be classified in free, emulsionated, and soluble water. High water content in biodiesel and diesel can cause problems such as water accumulation and microbial growth in fuel tanks and transportation equipment. Currently, there is a lack of information on water absorbance in biodiesel and biodiesel/diesel blends from what I have read. But I am not an expert by any means. Experiments were conducted to determine the water absorbance of biodiesel and biodiesel–diesel fuel blends evaluating the temperature and blend ratio parameters. Soluble water in biodiesel ranged from (1500 to 1980) mg·kg–1 in the temperature range of (283.15 to 323.15) K, which was 10 to 15 times higher than diesel. Results also showed that, at constant relative humidities, biodiesel absorbed 6.5 times more moisture than diesel. The presence of free and/or emulsionated water in biodiesel and blends was determined through turbidity experiments.

Again I only use about a pint to a gallon per tank and not really during winter. I live in an extremely dry climate in Flagstaff AZ @7,000 ft. Plus I drive it, a lot. I am not stating using biodiesel for storage. ;)

As noted, if I were to store it, the PRI-D looks like a great product.
 
#112 ·
That said, Schaeffer carries some good products as I used their oil in my 4cyl diesel (2005 Passat TDI wagon). Really great products.

https://www.schaefferoil.com/fuel-additives.html

Diesel Treat 2000™ Winter Fuel Additive might also be an option. Although I'd have to call them to check on Biological growth.
 
#114 ·
I just read through this lengthy discourse and have received a fair education on additives and bio , I am the new owner of a 2013 Touareg TDI with 159k on the clock. Maybe I’m close to the expected term of HFPF ..... who knows , but I’m hoping for another 159k before this happens. I have access to some good B-5 here in Roanoke Va., and also had another question with using BG product 245 as a cetane booster and fuel additive protection? Can anyone chime in on the benefits/downside of this product? Warranty will not be an issue , but longevity is my goal. Thanks.
 
#115 ·
I've been dosing 6 ounces of Diesel Kleen per fillup (usually 16-18 gallons). Gray bottle 3 seasons, white bottle for winter.

I can't say if it's snake oil, because I have never had diesel/fuel issues. SO it is working to prevent fuel problems, or there are never fuel problems to correct. So far so good. It's not very expensive. I purchased a couple of small dosing bottles of Stanadyne Performance formula a few years ago, and I kept the bottles. I just use a small funnel and refill those with Diesel Kleen, and keep it in the rear door cubby for the next fillup (every other week usually.)
 
#116 ·
I had issues with biological slime growth inside the fuel tank on my touareg tdi, and had to have the fuel pump replaced and fuel tank drained and wiped out.
Since this episode, I now use a diesel biocide made by Stabil once a month (maintenance doses), a fuel tank cleaner once a season (made by power services), and use grey bottle power services additive in warmer months and white bottle additive in the winter. I have had no issues with the slime returning. I also never let the tank go below 1/4 tank.
 
#117 ·
Hi all, fascinating thread and could have significant dollar impact. My question is directed mainly at the Aussie contingency and am asking if anyone has researched the issue of Australian diesel fuels that are generally low sulphur and derived from local low sulphur crudes or imported from Singapore refineries processing mainly low sulphur Indonesian feedstocks. Any thoughts on the use of additives welcomed, not aware of availability of bio diesel in this part of world.

Geoff
 
#118 ·
My experience with Biocides is with my marine diesel boat that is stored for 6 mos with 150 gallons of fuel that has a risk of algae forming. I use Pri-D which has kept the fuel safe for now 18 yrs each winter. I use my TDI TREG all yr long,so I don't use the biocide since the fuel is consumed each month. I do use PS grey for lubricity and have for last 10yrs with good success. I think of these products as good cheap insurance.
 
#119 ·
affinityone said:
Hi all, fascinating thread and could have significant dollar impact. My question is directed mainly at the Aussie contingency and am asking if anyone has researched the issue of Australian diesel fuels that are generally low sulphur and derived from local low sulphur crudes or imported from Singapore refineries processing mainly low sulphur Indonesian feedstocks. Any thoughts on the use of additives welcomed, not aware of availability of bio diesel in this part of world.

Geoff
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Hi Geoff,


This is the stuff I use with every tank since replacing my HPFP, can't tell you if it does any good but I cant see any reason why not to use it.



https://www.flashlube.com/images/stories/pdfs/dieselfuelconditioner-brochure.pdf


If you haven't seen/read this tread before I strongly suggest you read it as it should give you a good insight into the "AB" HPFP's


https://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/...g.com/forums/f93/possible-hp-fuel-pump-issue-with-casa-cata-engines-258642.html


TonyB
 
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#120 ·
turbospool said:
I just read through this lengthy discourse and have received a fair education on additives and bio , I am the new owner of a 2013 Touareg TDI with 159k on the clock. Maybe I’m close to the expected term of HFPF ..... who knows , but I’m hoping for another 159k before this happens. I have access to some good B-5 here in Roanoke Va., and also had another question with using BG product 245 as a cetane booster and fuel additive protection? Can anyone chime in on the benefits/downside of this product? Warranty will not be an issue , but longevity is my goal. Thanks.
Click to expand...
I don't know about the fuel additive protection (against what specifically?) but I wouldn't expect any noticeable cetane boost unless amounts approaching 25% ate added. Cetane is a specific hydrocarbon molecule. The Cetane Number - up to 100 - indicates the similarity of the fuel - the burn characteristics - to 100% cetane. If you add one gallon cetane to a gallon of fuel with a 70 cetane number you end up with 2 gallons that will test at about 85.
 
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