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Hi! have owned an T'reg 04 Lux V6 for a few months now...first VW and stoked with handling! Pirelli STR's (25560R17) need changing soon and am considering B'stone Dueler HP Sport in same size. Mostly on-road driving with occasional boat-ramp and non-sealed road driving...not planning off-road at this stage. Opinions, comments re: switching to B'stones or remaining with Pirelli's?

Thanks.
 
Ive had best mileage out of Duelers. Worst out of Michys. Currently running continentals on the front duelers on the back.
 
Murray, i see you have different tire brands on the front and back. What is your take on having tires of different radius (even extremely, extremely, small differences) on all wheel drive systems. I've heard several opinions on this vis a vis damaging the differential.
 
I put 4 contis on after getting only 20000k out of michys. In the first week staked one of the contis and couldn't be repaired. I was at a brigestone dealer so got them to fit 2 duellers. Had duellers before and found them to be very good for milage and noise. I dont beleive there should be any issue regarding problems with differant brands doing any damage to the 4 x 4 system.
 
NSW regulations for tyres

Hello Werner.

I think I read somewhere that the max +15mm restriction is only in QLD and NSW, but not in WA and NT. Read it somewhere in the Forums. For QLD it is easy to find on the QLD Transportation page under vehicle modifications, maybe WA has something similar?

Tim
For NSW it's VSI-09 from this website
Vehicle standards information sheets

Page 4 quote:
"If the wheels are listed on your car’s tyre placard or in the owners handbook then the tyres you fit must be those
listed on the placard or in the handbook for these wheels."

I only have 17" 235/65 and 255/60 on my placard for 17x7.5 wheels. Which means I legally (?) can fit no other tyres...
...and it's really hard to fund good ATRs for 255/60! I don't know any but the Conti 4x4 (expensive).

If you have other wheels... it's a different story. The wheel+tyre combination can be up to...
Page 2 quote:
"The outside diameter of the wheel and tyre combination must be no more than 15mm over the largest diameter
wheel and tyre combination specified for the vehicle and not more than 15mm below the smallest diameter wheel
and tyre combination specified for the vehicle." (note: what's on the placard).

Does anybody know what happens if you ignore these regulations? E.g. what if I fit 245/65 on my wheels, even though they are not listed on the placard, but still within the 15mm rule?

I get the impression many people don't care, also haven't heard of anybody who had a problem. My tyre dealer didn't have a clue.

Cheers
Sascha
 
This is a really daft spec!!!

15mm on a 10" Mini wheel is going to make a much bigger difference than on a 17" Touareg wheel... If they wanted to sound clever they should've at least specified a percentage of the original diameter... #-o

I also cannot see the point in limiting the diameter of the tyre, apart from the fact that it affects the speedo, and this should be something the owner of the vehicle should take responsibility for. Much more important IMO are the load and speed ratings.
 
My 2c, The only real issue will be insurance, if you have a bowout that causes a accident/ rollover ect I doubt you will be covered.

As I have said previously, every second patrol, hilux , landcruiser has oversize tyres on them. Certainly greater than the nominated 15mm. I wonder how they get around the placard non-compliance? or do they just not care.
 
G'day
They probably get an RTA accredited automotive engineer to certify as to their roadworthiness...and have that certification noted on their rego etc
Regards
Kevin
 
I put Yokahama Geolander ATS 265/65/17 on about 8000 kms ago. They are very quiet and like others have said, have raised the vehicle 1/2 - 1". They have also corrected the speedo and are a heap better off road than the rubbish Michelins the vehicle came with.
 
Geolander side walls are freakishly soft and thin and would be reallly prone to sidewall damage even from kerb nudges. They may be quiet and handle ok but the are scarey.
 
Well, I replaced the 20" wheels with 255/55/R18 Pirelli ATR's. Took the Treg to the dunes at Bremer Bay (400km from home). Must say, car drives much quieter on the road and performs superbly on the sand - only dropped pressure to 150 kPa. Thanks to all you guys on this forum for all the advice! Must say, I run the pressure at 240 (rather than the recomended 280) and just turn the TPMS off. Does anyone know why the recommended pressures (for the different sizes) are all so high? Cheersm Werner
 
Possibly weight, but then why do Landcruisers and Troopcarriers (the only vehicles I have experience with) not need these high pressures?
 
Well, I replaced the 20" wheels with 255/55/R18 Pirelli ATR's. Took the Treg to the dunes at Bremer Bay (400km from home). Must say, car drives much quieter on the road and performs superbly on the sand - only dropped pressure to 150 kPa. Thanks to all you guys on this forum for all the advice! Must say, I run the pressure at 240 (rather than the recomended 280) and just turn the TPMS off. Does anyone know why the recommended pressures (for the different sizes) are all so high? Cheersm Werner
As far as I know the higher the load, the higher the pressure up to the max listed on the sidewall of the tyre which varies with it's load rating. e.g most truck tyres would run in excess of 550kpa (90psi approx). The higher the pressure, the less sidewall flex, the less heat build up, the less the chance of tyre failure. It obviously also depends on the weight of the vehicle(loaded) and speeds intended to travel at, the higher each one of these is, the more the tyre will distort if the pressure is kept the same. Wider section tyres especially low profile ones need something to keep the middle of the tread in contact with the road because the sidewall can't provide the force needed to stop it cupping away from the road (just running on the edges of the tread area) so air pressure needs to be increased to keep the tread flat against the road surface.
In soft sand I have found that in tyres with 70% aspect ratio or higher, that dropping pressures down to80 - 100kpa(9-12psi) greatly increases traction and anything above180kpa(17psi) really doesn't help as much. These ultra low pressures come with significant risks like rolling the tyres off the rim if you corner too hard, too much heat build up if you run too fast on harder surfaces, etc.
As far as low profiles are concerned, i feel dropping pressures is useless as there is virtually no sidewall to bag out to push against the soft sand for better grip and floatation. I recently tried mine on the soft dry sand near the second cutting just up from Noosa's northshore heading to Teewah using full street pressures on the Michelin Latitudes (295/35 21) and had no real issues, just the usual tramlining in other people's ruts. Didn't try anything serious yet as I was on my own and don't really know the capabilities of the car yet. i've done the run up 7 down Teewah beach, Rainbow Beach etc probably15-20 times and the southern half of Fraser 6 times in a standard GQ petrol, manual Patrol so just trying to get a comparison for later trips.
I think i'm right and hope this helps.
John
 
Must say, I run the pressure at 240 (rather than the recomended 280) and just turn the TPMS off. Does anyone know why the recommended pressures (for the different sizes) are all so high? Cheersm Werner
I think the general consensus on here is that the 280kPa spec for the 18's is too high. It's too close to the upper limit of most tyres, especially for an unladen vehicle. I run 250kPa front and rear. I'd suggest you do the same, and just keep a very close eye on your tyre wear. (I measure mine every 5,000km with a vernier at 12 different places on each tyre. Inside, middle and outside, every 90°. Yes, yes, I know, it's overkill...;)) If you start noticing uneven wear, adjust your pressures accordingly.

You should be able to re-learn the TPMS at 240kPa. I can re-learn mine at pressures as low as 150kPa. Anything below that and it just keeps on saying Defective Wheel on board.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Went with Yokohama Advan ST

Hi All and thanks for your responses, due to a zillion factors, the main one being little or no off road usage I went with Yoko's. Unbeknown at the time a friend of mine has done 20k on his 07V6Treg/Yoko ST's and they still look very good. Thought I'd give them a go, so far nice and quiet, high speed rating and seem to grip pretty well in the wet............. We'll see. Thanks again guys. Vince.
 
I have a similar issue. Looking for a off road replacement (of original michellin 255/60/17)to go to kimberleys. Purchased a spare set of Porsche Cayenne wheels and now need a 17 inch ATR to fit. Really only can find a passenger construction Cooper 245/65/17 , Pirelli 255/55/17 and Geolander 245/65/17. Has anyone any thoughts.
 
G'day

Up until about four weeks ago I had the cooper ATRs on my v6 tdi - got around 32,000 k out of them then started to get punctures on the dirt roads around where i live. The roads around the farm are dirt with a bit of exposed rock base in places.

When I had the first puncture repaired the tyre guy thought that the Coopers probably had another 5000k in them. After reparing another puncture a couple of weeks later a bit of tread smoothed off and punctured and I had to write off that tyre. I replaced all four with 255/65/17 Dueller AT 694. Noise is no different from the Coopers, handling is not quite as good on the tar but perfromance on the dirt is pretty good. Overall I think the Coopers handle better but I need to know that I can get to and from home on little travelled dirt roads with some degree of confidence. I had the Cooper ATRs on my previous R5 and was happy with them.

I now have AT tyres on all of our vehicles.

Regards...Peter
 
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