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But if you fit sub-frame spacers the lowest part of the car (sub-frame) will be the same height, all you will do is lift the body?

would you also need to relocate the shocks and other stuff connected to the wheels.
 
True, but spacers on the subframe would raise the effective "starting point" of the suspension and you could have the same equivalent ride height without the harshness of the maximum ride height. Not to mention it would be easier on the CV joints.


Actually no it won't, at least not the height part, CV and steering angles would be stock yes.

As Ragman has pointed out as well.
You need to lower the attachment point of the upper strut mount as also. Otherwise all you are doing is stretching the strut to it's max extension.
Lower the subframe and the strut mount then it's taller by default.

You will need to install larger tires or the actual ground clearance will not have changed at the sub frame.
 
Yes, the suspension mounts would also need a "spacer" of some sort. Brake lines might need to be moved, too. With just a 2" lift, they might not have to be replaced. <shrug>

There are no Touaregs at the Pick n Pull yards yet, so I haven't been able to really poke around much. And I can't really tear apart my own vehicle just yet. LOL!

And yes, zukgod1, you are correct. The idea of the lift is to be able to fit larger tires, thus increasing overall ground clearance.
 
I hear ya on the Pick N Pulls.. I found one in the last 4 years. The interior was pristine compared to my wife's. Got there a tad too late and someone already got the drivers seat, I should have pulled the back and pass seat but I was tired and it was cold.
Engine, trans, front everything was already gone. The rear end was still there.
 
Just a heads up, I am still making kits.
They have been revised somewhat to polymer spring spacers front and rear.
This makes for a much more cost effective solution and simplifies machining process.
The material has a very similar crush rate to the billet aluminium but with the bonus of being much lighter.
As i was putting together for the last time my car i realised something that i had overlooked in the past.The rear suspension geotmetry is dictated by the control arms and there arc not the strut travel, with this is mind there is no reason to add a hat style spacer to the strut as it doesnt add any down travel or stroke to the strut/geometry.
Basically increasing the spring rate with the spacers is all that is required.

PM me for details.

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I'm glad you are still making these. The spring spacer in the rear would be SO MUCH EASIER to install over the hat.
The extra length on the rear strut makes it SUPER hard to install.

Any chance I could get a pair of the new rears? I would rather have the spring spacer over the hat.
 
Finally finished with the install this afternoon. I'm a little cut up and bruised, but it was worth it. I've got taking the suspension out and putting it back in down to a science now.

The T-reg is definitely a little more firm now, but that's not necessarily a bad thing as it was pretty plush before. The final numbers before and after for floor to top of wheel arches with stock sized tires is from 835mm to 885mm on the front and 868mm to 915mm. I'm pretty impressed that all of my math yielded exactly the height increase I wanted. As far as the install goes it was very straight forward, but the most time consuming and hardest part was compressing the springs the extra length of the spacers in order to get the strut assemblies reinstalled. I also had to ditch the original plastic boot retainers as they were now interfering with the lower coils so I simply zip-tied the boot to the damper cylinder like many other coilover companies do. My driving impressions are good so far, but I've only driven about 10kms so far. This weeks commute will definitely give me more information.

Who needs air tools when you've got dual Craftsman action
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Assembled front strut assembly and dog-tax
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I don't have a before shot from the same angle unfortunately. The T-reg is definitely higher though.....it's going to make loading my mountain bike interesting.
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Finally finished with the install this afternoon. I'm a little cut up and bruised, but it was worth it. I've got taking the suspension out and putting it back in down to a science now.

The T-reg is definitely a little more firm now, but that's not necessarily a bad thing as it was pretty plush before. The final numbers before and after for floor to top of wheel arches with stock sized tires is from 835mm to 885mm on the front and 868mm to 915mm. I'm pretty impressed that all of my math yielded exactly the height increase I wanted. As far as the install goes it was very straight forward, but the most time consuming and hardest part was compressing the springs the extra length of the spacers in order to get the strut assemblies reinstalled. I also had to ditch the original plastic boot retainers as they were now interfering with the lower coils so I simply zip-tied the boot to the damper cylinder like many other coilover companies do. My driving impressions are good so far, but I've only driven about 10kms so far. This weeks commute will definitely give me more information...
MmmBoost can you provide the details of the spacers you made? I am looking to make some and wonder about the I.D., O.D., etc.
 
saab to touareg

I made some spacers out of oak boards for my old saab 9-5. Got it up about 3 inches in front and 4 in back. The trick is compressing the springs and getting them to fit in there perfect under the spring - also getting or making the actual spacers.

Getting the three layers of 1 inch oak board screwed together so that they were perfectly aligned and also the same size was important. Also the spacer i needed wasnt perfectly circle on the the inner hole, so there was some drilling. But at least you dont need a huge metal drill.

With the touareg you would probably have to use this one brazilian wood that I cant remmeber the name of. It is used for decks. It is like the hardest wood you can get. I jack my v10 up with this as the piece that goes in between the tiny crappy hoist point on the jack and the 4 wood pieces that I also stack on and brace that against the subframe I think so the jack stand can be under the outer edge of the frame just behind the front wheel. this wood barely even dents from the edges of the small point on my crappy jack. there are some aluminum spacers on the back, the front spacers are oak and i used a piece of that brazilian wood on the back on top of all the aluminum ones later.

Had 10 inches of clearance in the front and more than that in the back. Be careful, I think i rolled it due to the spacers. high centered a little.

touaregs could be rolled too. its a good thing i can drop it down to sport and low with the air suspension (and blow the knobbies up real high like 55psi and hold those corners once i'm back on the highway. I bet theres a little loss of articulation from the steel suspension in some off roading conditions maybe. dunno about the stats on that - touaregs seems real bad at wheel articulation, but comfort mode and low produces a middle ground height and the treg is still pretty high up if you have big tires.
 

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do you happen to make a kit to fit t3s? i have a test unit lol :)

I haven't made one for a T3 yet. I've never been asked before and I don't know anyone with one so I can grab the dimensions and lay out the suspension geometry in CAD like I did with the T2. I see you're in Canada, are you anywhere near Edmonton?
 
I haven't made one for a T3 yet. I've never been asked before and I don't know anyone with one so I can grab the dimensions and lay out the suspension geometry in CAD like I did with the T2. I see you're in Canada, are you anywhere near Edmonton?
Unfortunately im in ontario...but i started a t3 lift interest post a while back...theres a few of us looking for a way to do it..and at this point no one has done it. I asked alex glee who use to do t2s and t1s and he said hes dont work on t3. If you can find a way theres a bunch of us who would want one im sure. I got 31s now but little lift would be perfect.
 
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