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Hey, just talked to my mechanic friend. He is not sure if the gas line is under the right or left side, but, check under/behind/beside the blown tire area, he said it might be that a line is bent or choked (I hope this makes sense...). Also, reset switch after accident, there is such a thing. If the airbag light is on the reset is done via VAG com, if not a simple restart will do. I hope this will help!!!!!! Let us know!
 
Hey Alex,
I live in South Bend, IN about and hour and a half 2 hours from you, My buddy at Mastersource Automotive has been in the Euro car biz for about 15 years, is very reasonably priced and does excellent work, If worst comes to worst and you can do the repair yourself it might be worth having it towed into my neck of the woods and having him do the repairs, if you have a tow trailer I would even consider towing it here myself, my buddy will even let you buy your own parts, and he charges $68/hr. labor, the only thing is that he is somewhat busy right now and it could be here awhile if you brought it here. Let me know how things go with the diagnosis, anything to keep your truck out of the stealership. Good Luck and I hope it’s nothing major.

John
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Thanks for all the support guys! If it wasn't for you guys giving me a little hope I'd probably have set fire to thing already!! Just kidding, anyways this is the deal, the fuel lines are on the passenger side and I inspected them, they are ok. The tire blowout was on the driver's side and there is no damage underneath from the tire whatsoever. I'll have to wait for my brother tommorow to get the codes, hopefully, god willing, I can reset it with his OBD II or atleast get some numbers out of it. Getting to the fuses is a pain in the a$$, seriously, but I have to remain calm. I have a check list of all the things I'm going to do first and work my way down. I turned it on last night and as It died, I can hear both pumps kicking off. When I open the driver door, I can hear one of them priming, something isn't right here. I think it may not be the pumps being bad, I think it's something else. I have an alternate vehicle for now so this is going to take some time, but one thing I absolutely refuse to do is take it to the dealer. I don't want to spend $120 for the tow, $150 for them to tell me what's wrong (if they can) then another $120 to get it back to my house. I never give up, never have, never will. Once I get everything fixed I'll be doing a full write up and some pics if it's something major like the pumps. Again, thank you all for being so supportive, and I don't give a damn what anyone says, the members at Club Touareg are the best!!! It's nice to have friends that you have never seen before taking time out of their day to help a fellow member. Again thank you all for the help and the support.

Alex
 
Hey alex.
This really sucks bro! I hope you can figure out what's up with this situation and that you get it repaired at a reasonable cost. I wish I could get up there and help you out, my schedule is insane right now. I've worked on my cars in the past but nothing like a fuel pump.

JR88 (Alex)
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
OK guys here we go....
P0118, P2117 ,P2179 Called one dealer and they never got back to me, the other one is closed of course. Soooo, I figured you guys are the smarter ones so anyone have an idea what these mean?
 
P-codes are generic OBD codes. If you Google them, you can get some deeper information.

Check here for a code list
p0118-Engine Coolant Temp Circuit High
p2117-Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor "F" Minimum Stop Performance
p2179-System Too Lean Off Idle

Matt
 
p2179 sounds closest... fuel pressure?
 
I think this thing might get solved right here with no intervention by a dealer. (other than parts) Or at least I hope so.

Cya
 
Alex,

Hope you don't mind if I ask a dumb question, but any reason in particular why you focused immediately on the fuel delivery system?

I gather from the pics you've uploaded you have a V6, right? Well, I hate to say it, but heck, it could be anything, couldn't it? How about a bad computer chip in the anti-theft circuit or something?

What it seems we do know is that the engine will turn over and (at least initially), start, and run for a few seconds, then it quits. Is it still doing that, or will it even start at this point? A fuel delivery problem would make sense, but if the fuel pumps (there are 2?) weren't working you would have run through all residual gas after the pumps and it shouldn't even start now.

Do you have a manual? If there are two pumps, is the output combined at some point or does each feed one side of the engine? If the latter, I'd expect three of the six cylinders to fire (run, sort of, but very roughly) unless the computer's keeping it from starting at all. If the former, I'd guess the output from one pump alone won't keep the engine supplied with enough. Nevertheless, is there a place after the pumps where you can disconnect a fuel line, turn the ignition on, and directing the fuel into a coffee can or something, see if you're getting a steady stream out of the line? If you can find a pressure spec, you could attach a pressure guage at that point and see if you're meeting the requirement. Depending on where the fuel filter(s) are, (before/after your disconnect point), that may point the finger at them (possibly clogged).

It's apparent that you hate dealerships with a passion, but come on, you live in Chicago - there's GOT to at least one honest V.W. dealership somewhere in the area. It seems like you might save yourself a lot of time and trouble to just pay a (supposed) expert for a diagnosis. If you don't want to fork over the $ for a tow again (understandable), get a buddy with a truck and tow it yourself. My wife, the Jag lover, has done that most of her life. He dad would come get her with his Ranchero and they'd tow the errant Jag home. Just remember the person in the rear does the braking - person towing has to restrain themself - please don't take my advice and hurt your rig any further! Or, buy an Auto Club membership (would have paid for itself on the first tow), and go "Hey, what a coincidence, I just got this and my car won't start!" and have them tow it wherever.

Not trying to piss you off, just some thoughts...
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Thanks for the advice Kevin......

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I finally had to give in guys. It was hard to try to convince myself that I couldn't figure out what was wrong, and that I should just let the pro's take over but I did it. Kevin, what you said makes total sense, and I'd like to thank you for your advice. The more research I did to try to figure out what was wrong, another "It could be this" situation would arise. I am going to have an answer tomorrow about the problem and the $$$$. I will say this though, It's not getting towed to the dealer, I have a great auto repair shop that I didn't even know about that specializes in foreign cars. The place was highly recomended by my buddy that has his BMW and Rover serviced there (often:p). They charge $90 an hour for labor, the VW dealers around here charge $150 an hour:mad:. The other good thing is that they guarantee the work they do for 36 mo. Again thank you all for the help and advice.

Alex
 

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Hang in there! Whats weird is I have had that defective wheel error before along with the Flat tyre entouarge of errors, but you tire exploding concerns me much, I should be checking something right?
How did it know something is going that bad on the wheel ?
 
Any word yet?

I am starting to get a little concerned with my '05 V6. At 78k miles it stopped running once RIGHT AFTER I filled up with gas. I put it in Drive, let my foot off the break and then_gone. Turned the key off and on and she started right up - no problems. Read on here that some folks had the same issue, but it was a precursor to bad fuel pumps. This morning I was warming it up and heard the idle drop down (low) and recover back up. I am wondering what your problem was to get more of an idea of what mine could be.

Allen
 
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