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v10 is being a beast.. crank,start, die...

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no start tdi touareg v10 vcds
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#41 · (Edited)
I removed the guts from all 4 cats on my 2004 V10 without removing the engine. First remove the sleeves that join the front and back pipes on bothsides, support the trans and remove the crossmember, this allows the pipes to drop down so you can undo (read break) the 3 studs in the flanges, then I used a spade bit with a long shank in my drill to smash out the ceramic stuff, there is also some flywire type stuff around the edge that grabs onto the spade bit so you can pull it out, but be careful. then I used a piece of 1/2" wire cable about 14" long in my drill, just frey the end a bit and go berzek up into the front cats to remove what the drill couldn't reach, BUT BE CAREFUL!, I copped a nice cut just under my eye when the cable came out and was swinging around madly. Then you will need to remove the broken studs, you will need a pile of old nuts....place one over the broken stud ( even if its broken off level with the flange) then weld the nut to the stud, being careful not to weld to the flange, use some WD40 and a spanner to wiggle the nut back and forth till it breaks off...then weld on another one and repeat....you will get them, just be patient!

I also have added test ports into the high pressure lines at the back of the fuel rail, I brought 2 "tee" pieces and got some short hoses made about 12" long with a 45 degree fitting on one end to fit the tees and reach up above the engine where I fitted 2 300PSi gauges (I'll take the Gauges off and just plug the hoses when I'm finished). And the hoses were super stuck onto the fuel rails, I destroyed one trying to get it off, I found you just need to undo the nut and tap the hose sideways.

What I found was I had 11PSI at idle (this presure is coming from the electric pumps in the tank) and I had 11PSI at 3500 RPM! ie, both my tandem pump and left side pump had failed completly, and the engine was running ok, just lacked power and surged under accelleration. ( I drove it like this for over a year as I couldn't find the problem and the only fault i was getting "boost pressure not reached" ).

I removed both pumps ( not too difficult after removal of both EGRs...it's getting them back on thats the killer..!!!!) and found all 4 springs that push the vanes onto the centre rotor where all broken, I got new springs from the local tool shop (The springs are 15.80 mm long, wire Dia is 0.70mm and coil is 5.72mm OD (thanks Drag!))and My Treg has it's power back!! YAY, except my left pump is only giving 2 BAR at 1500rpms when I should be 7.5 Bar at 1500.... gotta take it off again...not looking forward to that...
Also I have removed both EGR pipes and blanked them off without removing the engine.
hope this helps..
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
V10aholic said:
I removed the guts from all 4 cats on my 2004 V10 without removing the engine. First remove the sleeves that join the front and back pipes on bothsides, support the trans and remove the crossmember, this allows the pipes to drop down so you can undo (read break) the 3 studs in the flanges, then I used a spade bit with a long shank in my drill to smash out the ceramic stuff, there is also some flywire type stuff around the edge that grabs onto the spade bit so you can pull it out, but be careful. then I used a piece of 1/2" wire cable about 14" long in my drill, just frey the end a bit and go berzek up into the front cats to remove what the drill couldn't reach, BUT BE CAREFUL!, I copped a nice cut just under my eye when the cable came out and was swinging around madly. Then you will need to remove the broken studs, you will need a pile of old nuts....place one over the broken stud ( even if its broken off level with the flange) then weld the nut to the stud, being careful not to weld to the flange, use some WD40 and a spanner to wiggle the nut back and forth till it breaks off...then weld on another one and repeat....you will get them, just be patient! I also have added test ports into the high pressure lines at the back of the fuel rail, I brought 2 "tee" pieces and got some short hoses made about 12" long with a 45 degree fitting on one end to fit the tees and reach up above the engine where I fitted 2 300PSi gauges (I'll take the Gauges off and just plug the hoses when I'm finished). And the hoses were super stuck onto the fuel rails, I destroyed one trying to get it off, I found you just need to undo the nut and tap the hose sideways. What I found was I had 11PSI at idle (this presure is coming from the electric pumps in the tank) and I had 11PSI at 3500 RPM! ie, both my tandem pump and left side pump had failed completly, and the engine was running ok, just lacked power and surged under accelleration. ( I drove it like this for over a year as I couldn't find the problem and the only fault i was getting "boost pressure not reached" ). I removed both pumps ( not too difficult after removal of both EGRs...it's getting them back on thats the killer..!!!!) and found all 4 springs that push the vanes onto the centre rotor where all broken, I got new springs from the local tool shop (The springs are 15.80 mm long, wire Dia is 0.70mm and coil is 5.72mm OD (thanks Drag!))and My Treg has it's power back!! YAY, except my left pump is only giving 2 BAR at 1500rpms when I should be 7.5 Bar at 1500.... gotta take it off again...not looking forward to that... Also I have removed both EGR pipes and blanked them off without removing the engine. hope this helps..
Click to expand...

Man!!!

That's priceless info! I will hopefully have a free weekend coming this week and get on it.
 
#44 · (Edited)
Checking Fuel pressure

These are the Tee pieces, short hoses and Gauges I used.
The hoses will stay perminatly on the engine but I have blanking plugs for the ends when I remove the Gauges.
The right side Tee is difficult to get on as the extra length makes the fuel hose press hard up against the steel coolant hose at the back there. I will have to revisit my rh hose one day as I don't want to leave it pressed hard into that coolant hose...


Don't worry about the 2 hoses that cross the engine..they are just temperary breather hoses until I make some catch cans.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
V10aholic said:
These are the Tee pieces, short hoses and Gauges I used. The hoses will stay perminatly on the engine but I have blanking plugs for the ends when I remove the Gauges. The right side Tee is difficult to get on as the extra length makes the fuel hose press hard up against the steel coolant hose at the back there. I will have to revisit my rh hose one day as I don't want to leave it pressed hard into that coolant hose... Don't worry about the 2 hoses that cross the engine..they are just temperary breather hoses until I make some catch cans.
Click to expand...
You wouldn't have part numbers for those ts would you or thread pitch and fitting?
 
#46 ·
Dieseldoc said:
You wouldn't have part numbers for those ts would you or thread pitch and fitting?
Click to expand...
I speak to V10 (aka Brian ) and he has the same fittings i have found to fit onto the rails. Issue is that V10 found that the coolant pipe that runs down that side is partially in the way for this. I found this when i tried to fit mine and was not happy with it. I have a follow up plan which i think will work fine and would be a easy change over by putting the test port fitting into the back hex head of the banjo bolt. Plenty of room and you can have it premade ready to fit. I will offer the exact details of this setup hope fully this week. To answer your original question though the Tee piece V10 has is a (Pirtek EVL-08L adjustable barrel TEE coupling) but i am sure others will make their version.

regards
Drag
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
Got a new question.

Is there anything between the turbo and the manifold that could cause a restriction. I drilled the cat out and have the second cat disconnected from the flex pipe. I am still getting zero pressure from the exhaust pipe post turbo. Everything is coming from the disconnected egr port. If I cap it it stalls. Think the turbo could have ???? Something stuck in it? Is there another filter between where I can see w a borescope?
 
#49 ·
Dieseldoc said:
Got a new question.

Is there anything between the turbo and the manifold that could cause a restriction. I drilled the cat out and have the second cat disconnected from the flex pipe. I am still getting zero pressure from the exhaust pipe post turbo. Everything is coming from the disconnected egr port. If I cap it it stalls. Think the turbo could have ???? Something stuck in it? Is there another filter between where I can see w a borescope?
Click to expand...
Wow the mystery deepens.
So now if I understand the engine will run but only if you have the small EGR pipe that runs from the top, front of the exhaust manifold to the rear of the egr valve and all the engine gases are coming out that when engine is running? No gases or very little coming out the exhaust after the turbo. There should be nothing to restrict the gases the ex manifold is connected to the head, the turbo connects to the very rear of the manifold and the exhaust connects to the turbo, and you have gutted the first/primary cat internals? All facts taken into account, clearly you seem to have a restriction in either the end of the manifold or the turbo itself. So very odd but you may not be aware the exhaust manifolds on the V10 are a unique thing they are fabricated in a double skin setup/ inner outer wall if you want. I wonder if some how some of that inner wall has come free and is blocking the connection pipe to the turbo which would stop most of the exhaust gases going thru the turbo. Or your turbo is some how blocked, from self destruction or other? ??

regards
Drag
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
Drag

I think you have it right. Truck will run as long as the egr port off the manifold is open. No exhaust pressure at all from the downpipe from the turbo, I have drilled the first cat clear. I can take a borescope through the cat and see over the turn toward the turbo.

I have run the borescope down the exh manifold to the port between 4/5 where the turbo inlet pipe takes off the manifold. I can't get it to travel up the pipe but I am free of obstruction to the turbo I believe.
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Drag,

What do I need to put on my list of while the motor is out replace these things.

I am planning on

Rebuild or replace both turbos and modules.
Rebuild starter
Rebuild alternator
Clean intake manifolds
Delete egr

You mentioned in your post a 120.00 hose that you had to remove the engine to replace. Those kinds of things I would like to look at and replace if it's out already.
 
#52 ·
Do the generator [alternator] and the aircon compressor have the same "drive coupling" arrangement that is found on the R5? If so, then I'd replace both of those.
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
Just an update.

I have been trying to locate turbos for this rig before I drop the motor out as to try and reduce the amount of time this truck is exploded all over my shop. I think I have finally located a oem set new on the shelf and ready to ship. Garrett was going to have to manufacture me a set at a 8-12week lead time plus shipping at 2500 a side. VW was only slightly cheaper after shipping at 1700 a side (plus local tax).

Hopefully after the first of the year I can split it apart and see what's going on with it.
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
TUNINGBYAMG said:
Where in the heck do they come up with those magical numbers, i can have both turbos rebuilt and balanced or even upgraded with tougher bearings and bigger wheels for about 1000$ CDN. Thats even less when you convert to US dollars.
Click to expand...
Not sure. Where are you having them rebuilt? I found a company called scroll products that will rebuild them for 1850. Test out the modules, upgraded bearings and impeller shaft.

Sal
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
After shipping and work delays I found time to throw in my rebuilt turbos from tristate turbo services. Fully rebuilt modules tested ect.

Reinstalled motor with new turbos. Only to find that I am having a few different codes now. Most perplexing is the 19792 control module 2 missing messages.

I'll post a full scan when I am on my desktop.



 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
Canbus line to the turbos on my units are shared meaning there is not a line to each turbo to the canbus it's one line that splits to both turbos out of the harness. Has anyone has there harness apart to know if they have 2 separate leads from each turbo on the later modules? I have an 05/6 file on my 04 from previous testing.
 
#60 ·
I have '10 vr6 touareg.I know my is gasoline engine 3.6 but had similar problems.would start run for 10-15 sec then shut off if i started again would run 2-3 sec..if i would leave it for couple of hours would run for a minute or two.
My problem was high pressure sensor that is located near engine.I can look up the code.When I was looking at scanning,didn't show any codes or failure.
Maybe you should look up to it.I changed couple of mechanics untill I fount that problem somewhere on net solved.
Hope you make it work.
 
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