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I had the trailer loaded a bit tongue-heavy on the way up but I corrected it on the way back.
I looked at your pic a little closer... that looks like an older 2720 series, so considering the recent ones have a 400lb TW empty, I'd speculate yours is heavier. Add to that all you loaded into it, and I'll bet that you were close to the TW rated limit. You can get a cheap TW scale and verify your loading so that you don't have to do any guessing.

I've got one of these for that reason
 

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2010 TDI
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I looked at your pic a little closer... that looks like an older 2720 series, so considering the recent ones have a 400lb TW empty, I'd speculate yours is heavier. Add to that all you loaded into it, and I'll bet that you were close to the TW rated limit. You can get a cheap TW scale and verify your loading so that you don't have to do any guessing.

I've got one of these for that reason
2003 3124KB

I have a tongue weight hitch. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J5YMLD1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do you think the type in the link you posted is more accurate? I don't have one to compare it with. I guess I could do the board trick and use a bathroom scale.
 

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So what does it say you have for TW when squatting like that?
I had the trailer loaded a bit tongue-heavy on the way up but I corrected it on the way back. First time towing it with "everything" in it. 600# or so up, 500# on the way back.
The picture was on the way up.
 

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2016 Touareg TDI Executive white/terracotta
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Brake Fluid question:

For towing, do you guys run OEM brake fluid or do you opt for performance fluids ala Motul RBF600? I figure if those “performance fluids” are better for resisting boiling on the track, they’ll also help with towing! Especially in the mountains.

I just got my Touareg and have never towed anything before but am doing my research so I know all the things to consider before the time comes.
 

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OEM stuff is pretty good and I have never boiled it
 
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All and only OEM on a VW (except the blasted center main driveline bearing-to hell with that engineer!). Most important brake fluid point is having it flushed every two years or so when towing (probably excessive but generally we do all other fluids at same time). The fluid is hydrophilic so overtime will contaminated with water which can freeze at low temps and rupture line or boil at high temp. Just get it flushed with OEM and you will be fine.

As a rule you will be happier with your VW if you only use VW parts…I won’t get into how I learned that the hard way just do it and be happy lol.
 

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All and only OEM on a VW (except the blasted center main driveline bearing-to hell with that engineer!). Most important brake fluid point is having it flushed every two years or so when towing (probably excessive but generally we do all other fluids at same time). The fluid is hydrophilic so overtime will contaminated with water which can freeze at low temps and rupture line or boil at high temp. Just get it flushed with OEM and you will be fine.

As a rule you will be happier with your VW if you only use VW parts…I won’t get into how I learned that the hard way just do it and be happy lol.
Sounds good, not complaining
 

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I wouldn't be messing with the brake fluid, if you drain it you'll prob have to bleed the brakes.
huh? That is the goal. Just got this car, it’s a 2016 w/ 35K miles and it sat on a lot for 2.5ish years so I want to be sure every serviceable part is serviced and all fluids flushed before I continue putting miles on it. Also doing transmission, fuel filter, 4-wheel alignment, and general health check for suspension wear and leaks etc. hoping nothing noteworthy but prepared to spend some more to fix anything found. I want this car to last me into my 40’s (currently 28)
 

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huh? That is the goal. Just got this car, it’s a 2016 w/ 35K miles and it sat on a lot for 2.5ish years so I want to be sure every serviceable part is serviced and all fluids flushed before I continue putting miles on it. Also doing transmission, fuel filter, 4-wheel alignment, and general health check for suspension wear and leaks etc. hoping nothing noteworthy but prepared to spend some more to fix anything found. I want this car to last me into my 40’s (currently 28)
My mother and Grandmother always said " If it an't broke don't fix it" That's something that I find to be true. Sometimes you make problems where there isn't.

You're looking wayyyy into the future, you're still young. Anything can happen ( Like when you where rear ended Thank God it wasn't that bad)
I mean look at 2020, Did anyone ever think we'd be stuck inside for almost a year? People dying so heavily they had store the bodies in box trucks? Russia almost on the verge of starting another World War every single day. It's crazy times right now.

Live for today tomorrow isn't promised.
 

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I want this car to last me into my 40’s (currently 28)
I purchased my 2007 when I was 27 she was a basically new repo…now I am nearly 41 so yeah. I would add I hope to keep mine for many years to come. She is technically 15, but still drives like the day I purchased her. Been about 12 years since we paid her off which is nice too. Our 2008 V8 on the other hand has been a money pit and really it’s entire 10 years with us. We maintain both I am talking about non maintenance costs here…like 8k in the last 12 months!
 
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