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..... and because I know NO ONE CARES, make sure you adjust your brake controllers properly people.... as in, do actual brake tests and adjustments, prior to needing it.....

Why you ask? Well, as a fairly cocky enthusiast, I skipped spending the extra few minutes to do that on my setup. This past weekend, I was towing my RV to winter storage and had to jump on the binders when some [email protected]$$ decided to stop in the left lane of traffic in order to hit up a coffee shop. This caused me to have to brake much harder and more aggressive than I normally would while towing, and the trailer started chirping and locking up prior to the Touareg loosing traction.

Other than my chick barking at me for being a maniac and some other similar nonsense, my situation was fairly uneventful and I just dialed down the controller one notch while she was loosing her mind on me...... but it could've been a lot more hairy had this happened on a wet surface, or around a curve, etc......
 

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For the above trip of 7312.9 miles
362.341 gallons
$1077.4 for fuel
Average fuel cost $2.9665 / gallon
20.182 MPG (pencil and paper) and agreed pretty well with the car computer.
$6.785 miles per dollar
My Jetta Sportwagen 2.0 TDI got about 25 MPG towing and my 2016 Town and Country about 16.5 MPG towing.
I think the Touareg did pretty good.
I added about 2 gallon of DEF about half way, but probably did not need to do that.
The Touareg is the best and most comfortable tow vehicle I have had the pleasure of using towing the heavy 16' Scamp at around 3000 lbs.

 

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Just purchased a NOBO 19.6 dual axle. Dry it's just under 4,200 lbs. Been reading up on towing with the TDi. Looks like it should be a breeze to tow. Might be over kill, but I got a Blue Ox weight distribution hitch w/sway control and a Tekonsha Prodigy P2 brake controller. I read not to crank down to much with the WDH...not sure how accurate the info I read about the T3 hitches being to weak for a WDH. I just want a nice, level as possible, smooth, sway free ride for my first long distance trip of about 900 mi one way. Will post pics of it hitched up when it comes in.
 

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Just purchased a NOBO 19.6 dual axle. Dry it's just under 4,200 lbs. Been reading up on towing with the TDi. Looks like it should be a breeze to tow. Might be over kill, but I got a Blue Ox weight distribution hitch w/sway control and a Tekonsha Prodigy P2 brake controller. I read not to crank down to much with the WDH...not sure how accurate the info I read about the T3 hitches being to weak for a WDH. I just want a nice, level as possible, smooth, sway free ride for my first long distance trip of about 900 mi one way. Will post pics of it hitched up when it comes in.
Almost the same trailer weight and setup I am using. My little ATC toy hauler (2 axle) is 4464 pounds empty (7700 gross limit). Typical loaded tow weight for me is 5500-5700 pounds. using a Blue OX WD system w/1000 pound bars, Tekonsha P3 controller. I have found that you should have some rear sag, do NOT try and remove all your sag. Follow the instructions for the blue ox, and set the tow ball an inch higher than the level trailer coupler. Once you have the height set on the adjustable shank, never have to touch it again. I bought my Blue Ox from eTrailer, they recommended the 1000 pound spring bars because my tongue weight could approach 800 pounds in the right (wrong) conditions (full black tank, full gray tank, but unlikely as hell for me).

I am considering buying 800 pound bars. I feel the 1000 pound bars are too stiff. I use 8-9 links for the spring bars, tried 7 links (perfect level trailer but too stiff) but sometimes braking I feel the bars may be too stiff. I get shudder from the rear. Regardless of spring bar link settings. But when I tow for short transport distances once a twice a year (storage) I don't use the bars, and I get no shudder. Weird.

EDIT: I just see on the Blue OX website they no longer have 800 pound bars? Only 750...Huh..

Also contemplating a custom shank for the WD hitch ball. The Blue Ox is kind of long. It could be 4 inches shorter. My lift gate would make contact with the trailer jack, but I think it would be even more stable bringing the tongue weight closer to the rear axle.
 

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Almost the same trailer weight and setup I am using. My little ATC toy hauler (2 axle) is 4464 pounds empty (7700 gross limit). Typical loaded tow weight for me is 5500-5700 pounds. using a Blue OX WD system w/1000 pound bars, Tekonsha P3 controller. I have found that you should have some rear sag, do NOT try and remove all your sag. Follow the instructions for the blue ox, and set the tow ball an inch higher than the level trailer coupler. Once you have the height set on the adjustable shank, never have to touch it again. I bought my Blue Ox from eTrailer, they recommended the 1000 pound spring bars because my tongue weight could approach 800 pounds in the right (wrong) conditions (full black tank, full gray tank, but unlikely as hell for me).

I am considering buying 800 pound bars. I feel the 1000 pound bars are too stiff. I use 8-9 links for the spring bars, tried 7 links (perfect level trailer but too stiff) but sometimes braking I feel the bars may be too stiff. I get shudder from the rear. Regardless of spring bar link settings. But when I tow for short transport distances once a twice a year (storage) I don't use the bars, and I get no shudder. Weird.

EDIT: I just see on the Blue OX website they no longer have 800 pound bars? Only 750...Huh..

Also contemplating a custom shank for the WD hitch ball. The Blue Ox is kind of long. It could be 4 inches shorter. My lift gate would make contact with the trailer jack, but I think it would be even more stable bringing the tongue weight closer to the rear axle.
Very similar setup. I actually was contemplating getting the toy hauler version. I just got rid of my "toy", a Tiger 1200, but plan on getting another (Tenere 700 or 850GS). I wanted to stick with a NOBO, but the floor plan was not something we liked. And as I'll be temporarily living in this NOBO, I opted for the better floor plan layout.

I got the 550lb bars for mine, so I won't be tempted to push it over the 10% or so TW. I definitely won't be towing it wet either. Whatever I load into it, I plan on keeping the payload under 1k lbs, more likely half of that. Don't want to push the limit of the bars. If I see that my standard loadout/payload grows a bit, I'll purchase the 750lb bars.

Thanks for the info. I'll review the Blue OX setup and e-trailer install and set up video again to get it right. Would be nice to have something custom to get the TW closer to the rear axle.
 

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Here's mine. Just got delivered today and set up as much as I could in the rain and cold. Didn't hook up the WDH bars. The RV place installed the brackets for me. Picked up a 7 pin adapter and set up my brake controller. I just needed to tow it 1.5 mi down the road to storage before the HOA Nazi's cite me for a violation (even though I'm within my time frame...they still suck and will write you up).
 

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Almost the same trailer weight and setup I am using. My little ATC toy hauler (2 axle) is 4464 pounds empty (7700 gross limit). Typical loaded tow weight for me is 5500-5700 pounds. using a Blue OX WD system w/1000 pound bars, Tekonsha P3 controller. I have found that you should have some rear sag, do NOT try and remove all your sag. Follow the instructions for the blue ox, and set the tow ball an inch higher than the level trailer coupler. Once you have the height set on the adjustable shank, never have to touch it again. I bought my Blue Ox from eTrailer, they recommended the 1000 pound spring bars because my tongue weight could approach 800 pounds in the right (wrong) conditions (full black tank, full gray tank, but unlikely as hell for me).

I am considering buying 800 pound bars. I feel the 1000 pound bars are too stiff. I use 8-9 links for the spring bars, tried 7 links (perfect level trailer but too stiff) but sometimes braking I feel the bars may be too stiff. I get shudder from the rear. Regardless of spring bar link settings. But when I tow for short transport distances once a twice a year (storage) I don't use the bars, and I get no shudder. Weird.

EDIT: I just see on the Blue OX website they no longer have 800 pound bars? Only 750...Huh..

Also contemplating a custom shank for the WD hitch ball. The Blue Ox is kind of long. It could be 4 inches shorter. My lift gate would make contact with the trailer jack, but I think it would be even more stable bringing the tongue weight closer to the rear axle.
Meant to ask, how is it towing on long distances? What's your avg speed when towing w/5500 lbs? I know that independent rear ends have a tendency to sway, curious to know if the WDH takes care of that prob at HWY speeds. Thanks.
 

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No sway. I've never experienced it, without sway control, or with way control. The only movement of my trailer comes from outside influences such as CROSS WIND, passing semis, getting passed by semis. I get the prominent push that comes from those situations, and I am ready for it. First I get sucked towards the other vehicle, then I get pushed away. I don't mind except in construction areas on the highway where the crews have thoughtfully placed concrete barriers on the edge of the shoulder, turning the lane into exactly 10 feet of lane. I slow down in there. A lot of anxiety when both sides of the trailer are only a foot or so from contact.

Independent rear suspension is superior in all ways to a traditional solid axle suspension as long as the dampers are good. The Touareg in particular is not designed as a soft suspension soccer-mom-mobile. It won't be the cause of trailer sway. The max cold psi of the Touareg (+5 psi front and rear) should be observed. My settings are 38 psi front, and 43 psi rear for towing. Make certain to get the trailer tires to their cold PSI maximum as well. My trailer is dual axle, tires are ST255 75 R15 and load range E, 80 PSI max. They have a rigid sidewall, to say the least, they are designed for carrying load. My older small camper trailer was 50 psi cold, single axle. Also had no problems with sway. WD hitches are best at settling trailer bounce (porpoising), and that's why I use it. A nice solid connected feel during tow trip. If you have a trailer that sways without a sway control, then change what you can to eliminate it first (tongue weight, trailer load out, tire pressures, worn components).

I get a solid 12 mpg (calculated) on my trips to Vermont and back (12.5 mpg coming back), one way is 240 miles. My speed is whatever the limit is, so 65 mph in most cases. The I-91 corridor is very hilly from MASS to northern VT. I leave the cruise set at 65 mpg for the duration, except for two climbs that the Touareg can do, but I don't want 4th gear at 65 mph, I slow to 55 for those two hills.

I have towed to Canada this past September fr an Enduro event. It's a very different tow trip from my Vermont trips. From CT-MA through norther NY to the Ontario Canada border, there are NOT a lot of steep grades, they are very gentle in comparison to MA-VT. Speed again at 65 mph where permitted. My fuel average was better at 13.8 mpg for the trip (430 miles one way). I only topped off once in northern NY on the way. Great to have a 26.4 gallon tank, I wish the AdBlue tank was more diesel range, that would be cool. Last year (2018) I did the same exact trip without a trailer (motorcycle on a hitch rack) and I got 30 mpg each way. My mpg expectations when towing are half of regular highway fuel mileage or less. 7 years of towing campers have taught me this, and bears it out. If you tow, just suck it up and plan your fuel stops wisely. 240-300 miles MAX before needing fill up. The closest to empty I have ever been was me ignoring the low fuel warning and ending up needing 25.3 gallons. That was close. 4 years ago. Never pushed my luck like that again.
 

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No sway. I've never experienced it, without sway control, or with way control. The only movement of my trailer comes from outside influences such as CROSS WIND, passing semis, getting passed by semis. I get the prominent push that comes from those situations, and I am ready for it. First I get sucked towards the other vehicle, then I get pushed away. I don't mind except in construction areas on the highway where the crews have thoughtfully placed concrete barriers on the edge of the shoulder, turning the lane into exactly 10 feet of lane. I slow down in there. A lot of anxiety when both sides of the trailer are only a foot or so from contact.

Independent rear suspension is superior in all ways to a traditional solid axle suspension as long as the dampers are good. The Touareg in particular is not designed as a soft suspension soccer-mom-mobile. It won't be the cause of trailer sway. The max cold psi of the Touareg (+5 psi front and rear) should be observed. My settings are 38 psi front, and 43 psi rear for towing. Make certain to get the trailer tires to their cold PSI maximum as well. My trailer is dual axle, tires are ST255 75 R15 and load range E, 80 PSI max. They have a rigid sidewall, to say the least, they are designed for carrying load. My older small camper trailer was 50 psi cold, single axle. Also had no problems with sway. WD hitches are best at settling trailer bounce (porpoising), and that's why I use it. A nice solid connected feel during tow trip. If you have a trailer that sways without a sway control, then change what you can to eliminate it first (tongue weight, trailer load out, tire pressures, worn components).

I get a solid 12 mpg (calculated) on my trips to Vermont and back (12.5 mpg coming back), one way is 240 miles. My speed is whatever the limit is, so 65 mph in most cases. The I-91 corridor is very hilly from MASS to northern VT. I leave the cruise set at 65 mpg for the duration, except for two climbs that the Touareg can do, but I don't want 4th gear at 65 mph, I slow to 55 for those two hills.

I have towed to Canada this past September fr an Enduro event. It's a very different tow trip from my Vermont trips. From CT-MA through norther NY to the Ontario Canada border, there are NOT a lot of steep grades, they are very gentle in comparison to MA-VT. Speed again at 65 mph where permitted. My fuel average was better at 13.8 mpg for the trip (430 miles one way). I only topped off once in northern NY on the way. Great to have a 26.4 gallon tank, I wish the AdBlue tank was more diesel range, that would be cool. Last year (2018) I did the same exact trip without a trailer (motorcycle on a hitch rack) and I got 30 mpg each way. My mpg expectations when towing are half of regular highway fuel mileage or less. 7 years of towing campers have taught me this, and bears it out. If you tow, just suck it up and plan your fuel stops wisely. 240-300 miles MAX before needing fill up. The closest to empty I have ever been was me ignoring the low fuel warning and ending up needing 25.3 gallons. That was close. 4 years ago. Never pushed my luck like that again.
Awesome info. Looking forward to my trip from central TX to AZ. Good tips and info to keep in mind. I've towed utility trailers long distances but not a trailer with walls, like you mentioned, that can be pushed around by outside forces. This was my concern for the sway. And as you mentioned about porpusing, that's was another concern and one of the reasons I did go with a WDH. My trip is this weekend. Gonna hitch it all up properly in a couple of days, get the WDH all set up, get my weights and take it for a test run down the HWY. Thanks much!
 
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Hi, my rig 3.0 TDi with triple bunk. Tows beautifully, Redarc Tow Pro Elite braking controller. 16 l/100 km.
F18EBD93-B420-48D9-B45C-72D48DC83484.jpeg


Pete
 

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Yes, air suspension, I think maybe with the load of the van on the hitch and in the SCU restoring level it has gone up a bit to keep the level in order. I had it in Low range to shift it around a bit on the driveway.

Pete
 
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