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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum, but have been lurking for a few years. I finally got my first Touareg, 3 months ago and it has been serving me well so far.

Today after when I got in it, I noticed it had a code, it said Lean at idle on bank 3, so I cleared the code to see if it would come back; after I cleared it, the it started to idle rough, and then a threw a bunch of codes, misfire on every cylinder, and it idles lower than normal. So I cut it off and let it sit to see if that would change anything, it did the same thing.

It whistles now once the rpms reach above 2000, or when ever I'm slowing down, and also tells me there is an intake leak.

Anyone know what the issue might be? I'm not sure, and this worries me a lot:cry:

My brother who is a mechanic says he thinks it's from an exhaust leak.

Also it is a 2003 3.2l vr6
 

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Whistle sound is usually the PCV rubber diaphragm is ripped.
 

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Yup, sounds just like a duff PCV. Easy to change on the early V6. Get the part from the VW dealer. Others have skimped getting ebay parts only to find they were crap!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ordered one off of ECS tuning just a few hours ago, since my nearest vw dealer is about 60 miles away. But if ECS can't ship it out with in the next few days, I'll make a trip to the dealership and get one.
 

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Won't your dealer post it to you?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I actually didn't think about that.
But ECS tuning's PCV is OEM, and comes with the tube as well, for only $137 shipped. So I'm not worried about it.
Also, if you don't mind helping me out with one more thing, I was wondering about my timing chain, I have 118k on my Treg, and I don't think it has ever been done; it sounds fine, and the timing is within specifications. Should I go ahead and do it soon?
 

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You don't normally need to change timing chains in the same way you would change a timing belt as the latter degrade through both use and over time.

The 3.2 V6 timing chain change is an engine out job as it is pretty inaccessible at the rear of the engine.

Some 3.2s have had unusual timing chain wear problems, usually starting with a bit of a rattle and then, when the chain has stretched too far, failure to start. From memory, this is due to a batch of poorly manufactured chains where the link tooling was worn and out of spec.

I think that by using VCDS you can actually measure the stretch on a chain but we'll need a VCDS expert to tell us all about that!

In the meantime, do - please - make sure you change the engine oil and filter every 10,000 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first and, whilst the chain is quiet, I wouldn't worry about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ah okay thanks, I appreciate the info. So it's pretty much the same maintenance as the old 2.8l vr6. I wasn't quite sure, since this my first 3.2 vr, and I kept reading mixed sayings on what to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Another weird issue came up today. I had to go to work today, and on my way back tonight, I had a weird vibration when I have it some throttle; which made me think that my propshaft bearing mount went out.

But what was weird about it, I stopped some where and turned off the car to inspect the mount, it seemed fine, then when I turned it on and drove away, the problem disappeared. Can any one tell what is up with that?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I think I'll replace the bearing mount any way, since it has about 118k on it.

Does anyone have any dimensions for the bearing mount by any chance? Because it would help me out a lot if I don't have to go try and get measurements my self.
My brother works at a fabrication shop and has access to a mill, lathe, and other metal working tools, so he said he would make me one if I got the dimensions.
 

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It's not a mount but a bearing with moulded rubber inside a steel case.

Go and read some of the threads and you will see what you need to get plus some of the alternative fixes
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ah okay! Thanks noobytoogy.
I've been reading through the drive shaft bearing thread, and I'm thinking of making something similar to the ESP bearing support.

You wouldn't know the diameter of the bearing by any chance? I keep seeing that it is 30mm, I would like to get confirmation on that.
If not, I'll just see if I can take measurements with my calipers tomorrow.

And by the way, thank you, you have been a lot of help to me.
 

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Lube the bearing and see if that helps. My bearing went dry and even after doing the DIY hose/xiptie fix, I still had vibrations. Replaced it with a shaft from Driveshaft Doctors in Denver, CO and all is still well 2K miles later.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Lube the bearing and see if that helps. My bearing went dry and even after doing the DIY hose/xiptie fix, I still had vibrations. Replaced it with a shaft from Driveshaft Doctors in Denver, CO and all is still well 2K miles later.
Alright, I'll try that as well. I'm going to go ahead and do the hydraulic hose fix, until I can get some dimensions for my brother; because when I looked at it last night, the drive shaft had over a 1/4" of play to it. And when I checked it at 111k miles it had almost no play at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well... I went under to do the hose fix, and the bearing is gone. I guess it wasn't the mount, but the bearing; because when I spun it, it was rough, and rattled like a bad skateboard bearing.
So I guess I'm buying an upgraded shaft and all.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Alright, question. Any one have a suggestion on getting the propshaft out with out having to drop the subframe? I tried hitting it with a rubber mallet, but it didn't release from the rear diff.
 

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It's probably just "frozen" on there. Pounding it with a rubber mallet and even a metal sledge didn't do a thing. Instead, I ended up using the driveshaft like a big lever and just forcing it to break loose. When you do this, the sheetmetal seal around the rear connection (VW joint?) will get buggered up, but it WILL come off.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It's probably just "frozen" on there. Pounding it with a rubber mallet and even a metal sledge didn't do a thing. Instead, I ended up using the driveshaft like a big lever and just forcing it to break loose. When you do this, the sheetmetal seal around the rear connection (VW joint?) will get buggered up, but it WILL come off.
Thanks, I'll try that right now.
 
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