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Hammered, propane heated and rapid cooled. It turns maybe 45 degrees pretty free then binds left or right.

I heated for 2 minutes still binds, grips slip.

Gonna dremel a notch for screw driver, maybe heat a while a get and put a birthday candle in it.

If that doesn’t work, going to dremel flush, center punch, 1/8 cobalt to 5/32 (4mm) cobalt and hammer in a t27 torx. Heat again, pb quench it, and get after it with long ratchet.

Ultimately back up to the 5mm cobalt bit and m6x1 tap will be here Thursday. Maybe I skip the torx and just drill. Ultimately some just have to be drill yeah? Better that then having to then drill through the torx 27 insert bit.

Got the torx idea from here same size bolt:



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There are screw extractors that are intended for extracting broken studs.... not TORX.
You probably did this to yourself with your heating\cooling butchery!

Don't cut a slot into it. Either weld a nut\T-bar onto it or grind two flat edges on it and use an Adjustable on it...... you can apply heat to it but don't "rapid cool it"..... you're just tempering it and making it hard and brittle with your cooling methods.

Soak it in penetrating fluid too before you start...... since you say it binds after a little, I would guess it's cross-threaded, so get ready to repair the threads once you get it out (read, tap\helicoil)
 

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Best way to remove is to heat till glowing and melt bees wax on the broken bolt then attempt to remove when hot...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There are screw extractors that are intended for extracting broken studs.... not TORX.

You probably did this to yourself with your heating\cooling butchery!



Don't cut a slot into it. Either weld a nut\T-bar onto it or grind two flat edges on it and use an Adjustable on it...... you can apply heat to it but don't "rapid cool it"..... you're just tempering it and making it hard and brittle with your cooling methods.



Soak it in penetrating fluid too before you start...... since you say it binds after a little, I would guess it's cross-threaded, so get ready to repair the threads once you get it out (read, tap\helicoil)


I’ve used pb blaster the whole time. It broke off being careful, not even using heat. I think it’s just so bad that anything besides drilling is moot, compared to other people with similar experiences.

Torx would be ideal because a screw extractor would be very hard to remove if it broke and then ide be totally screwed. I could then easily drill it out if it doesn’t turn.

Car isn’t in a location for a welder. I guess I could do that as well for an adjustable.

I would was told the rapid cool would break the bond that are hanging it up. But I stopped trying that, just heating, cooling a little with time and trying the grips, but it slips. The tap and 5mm bit will be here Thursday.

Yeah I’ve used pb blaster the many times before trying to go further.


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Discussion Starter #7
Best way to remove is to heat till glowing and melt bees wax on the broken bolt then attempt to remove when hot...


About how long does that take? I have propane. I went up to about 2 minutes and it didn’t do that at all on like maybe medium low. Should it be on a bit higher? I don’t wanna burn those rubber lines next to it. Will a bday candle work or do I gotta get a special bee’s was thing?

I was just warned while hot it could break further because he metal will be weaker.


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Best way to remove is to heat till glowing and melt bees wax on the broken bolt then attempt to remove when hot...


Also glowing the steel bolt red, I would be worried about the surrounding aluminum in the alum block. It’s hard to keep too much precision on just the bolt with the torch.


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Torx would be ideal because a screw extractor would be very hard to remove if it broke and then ide be totally screwed. I could then easily drill it out if it doesn’t turn.
This is the proper tool.
As long as you use it correctly and don't "bend it", the stud will break way before the extractor does.....

The stubbies are even stronger.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I’ve read to many threads where they broke off because they are hard as hell but at the same time brittle by trade off. I’ve already ordered the ultimate drill bit and tap. Stubbier looks nifty thought never saw those.


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About how long does that take? I have propane. I went up to about 2 minutes and it didn’t do that at all on like maybe medium low. Should it be on a bit higher? I don’t wanna burn those rubber lines next to it. Will a bday candle work or do I gotta get a special bee’s was thing?

I was just warned while hot it could break further because he metal will be weaker.


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That will be enough. It just has to be hot enough to get the wax into the threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Candle wax didn’t really work for me. Just a lotta heat for a long time and turning it back and forth with a sinched down vice grips (with mechanical force) and getting it to crack free while hot. Super pain! Still going strong after the job.


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