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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!

I have a problem with my air suspension. Currently the FR (front right) air strut is low, probably sitting on the damper. When I turn on the engine I can hear the air compressor constantly filling up the tank (it did it constantly on/off in the period of 5-10min when the engine was running). Engine running and no change in FR strut (all doors are closed), but it seems that the left side front and rear went higher (they already seemed to be at okey height, so I don't know why it does that). And the right front and rear do not change. When turn engine off left side front and rear go down.

So I enabled jack mode and took the wheel off to see if theres anything obvious. I checked the ride height level sensor and wiggled the connector slightly and it came right out. So i cleaned it and plugged it in (was a thight fit, so I added a bit of silicone grease on the rubber washer and got it secured nicely by the tabs). After that turned on engine, but no change.

I hooked up VCDS and has two fault codes:

02250 - Function Deactivation; Valve Duty Cycle
001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

01400 - Suspension Level Control
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

Cleared the faults started the engine, put it in drive and drove about 50m until a ''Stop Running Gear Fault'' came up. Now checked the fault codes once again and both showed up again.
I looked at the monitoring data of the 1. compressor relay, 2. air pressure tank and 3. compressor temperature(went over 220C at some point). The average pressure was about 12 bar's and it hit 14 bar's at some point I believe, but its truning on constantly like its never filling up. When I shut the engine off it dropped to about 8,5 bar's quickly and then slowly decreased after every 10sec about 0,3 bar's.


Just to add the FR residual pressure valve has been changed about a year ago by the dealer and when the old one was removed they told me that the threads in the shock were stripped out previously and that's the cause of the leak and say'd that I need a new strut. After consulting with them they offered to use some kind of würth product (as I understood, basically epoxy) to put it in. They estimated it to last about 5 years then the strut would have to be replaced once it starts leaking.
Now after that everything was fine until about a few months later I noticed that the RL valve might have started to leak as well (it was a small leak so I didn't pay attention).


Any help is welcome
Thanks,
Karl
 

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Multiple v10tdi owner
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Soapy water sprayed on the fittings to check for leaks. Then if that does not work you may want to consider a used strut off eBay. They are cheap enough just not worth spending for a new unit. They rarely go bad. I have used struts on my car and it is just fine. Got all four for less than $400.

That said you can take a art the strut and replace the o rings as that is most likely a source for leaks. To me it’s not worth the time to take a chance it may not be the issue and you are doing the install a second time.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Okey, I sprayed the FR air shock valve with soapy water, the one that the dealer had glued in with ''epoxy'' and it is leaking. It's leaking slowly when engine is off, probably due to small amount of air in shock anyway, because it's on damper. But when engine turned on it started leaking faster, so could the leak be so bad that it never fills up the shock?
I had a look at the solenoid valve also located next to the compressor, but it seemed to be fine.

So what would your suggestions be? should I take the shock out and try to remove as much of that epoxy I can and then take it to a machine shop who would thread in bigger threads and maybe make a adapter to use the valve.

Found this air shock locally: http://www.airboss.ee/et/a/vw-touareg-esisilla-parem-ohkpadi any good?
 

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Just start the car, jack the suspension so the wheels are touching the ground but the suspension is not compressed and the compressor will fill the airbag then lower the car. This is what I did when replacing the air bags.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just start the car, jack the suspension so the wheels are touching the ground but the suspension is not compressed and the compressor will fill the airbag then lower the car. This is what I did when replacing the air bags.
Okey, i removed the air strut a few days ago actually and waited till the parts arrive. Now when the parts got here i proceeded to remove the nut on the top of the strut (the last one). I took my vise grips and put a rag between it, no luck just keeps spinning. Then i found a piece of rubber, used that no luck either. Then i bought 18mm wrench (the offset one, attached picture below). It did not fit perfectly so i grinded it down a bit with the dremel. After all that i tried to use a small 7mm wrench, seems that it would start stripping the strut shaft.

What would you suggest, i have no idea how to proceed
 

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Wrap the rubber around the rod and clamp with a large pair of vice grip players. Then hit the nut with an impact. Comes right off.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wrap the rubber around the rod and clamp with a large pair of vice grip players. Then hit the nut with an impact. Comes right off.
I don't have a impact, so i was thinking i would take it to a shop nearby, but they are closed in the weekends. There are no electric impacts available also, so i'd just have till Monday.
Talking about impact wrenches, are electric one good? battery vs 220V
 

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I don't have a impact, so i was thinking i would take it to a shop nearby, but they are closed in the weekends. There are no electric impacts available also, so i'd just have till Monday.
Talking about impact wrenches, are electric one good? battery vs 220V
I have both and always use the Milwaukee m18 1/2” impact. Works as good or better than air in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have both and always use the Milwaukee m18 1/2” impact. Works as good or better than air in my opinion.
Okey, so i got the nut loose and now am trying to put on the new bag, but i cant seem to make a seal with the lower seal. It seems that the new bag does not reach it
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The old bag has the inner metal sleeve more extended, probably due to it being in that position while on the vehicle. But the new bag is all the way down and therefor does not reach it. How did you complete this? Did you just leave it like that and then let the vehicle fill it up with air and then it maybe pushes it over the seal?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The damper on the right is different (new one). When i use the new damper then the inner sleeve is quite far away, i can even hear the inner sleeve banging againts the shock absorber shaft. When i use the old damper then it does not bang anymore, but when i peel back the dust bellows i can still see that it is not making an seal.
When using the old air bag it makes a seal with both.
The issue seems to be that the inner sleeve on the new air bag is so much more inside that it simply does not reach the seal.
Right now i'm out of ideas, because i dont want to put it all together and hope that the air will push it on before it starts leaking. It seems like 50/50 chance
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sorry for so many replies, but i think i got it (fingers crossed). So i pulled the inner sleeve out with my hand (basically the same amount as original one), then i hold the dust bellows in a way that i had the inner metal sleeve in my hand and slowly dropped it in. Took my hands away then wiggled it a bit and checked that its still on. Seems to be holding when its on there. So i will start assembeling it. Will see how it goes
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Got it installed and hopefully working leak free. The method i wanted to try in the previous reply did not work eventually. I was very frustrated after that thinking that i would have to take everything apart and try again. But as a last try i had in mind before taking it apart again was to basically lower the car all the way and have the jack just support it a little. After that turned on engine, disengaged jack mode abd after about like 20sec i heard 2 moderate pops and the air bag sidewalls were bulging (yess). I noted the height of all corners will check tomorrow if there are any differences. I bought two extra pressure valves also, because i new RL was leaking slowly.

Hope this helps someone else.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Okey, so i removed the RL air strut assembly also to replace both seals. Top seal was leaking, because the rubber seal was corroded. Then i removed the top absorber nut with a air impact and when i pulled back the dust bellows to remove the bag from the absorber i found out there was a small tare in the bellows and the inside was completely full of crap. Cleared it up and saw that the air bag inner sleeve that makes the seal with the absorber had been rusted together. I've tried all sorts of methods, but can't seem to break it loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
How about some penetrating oil or heating?
I've tried different penetrating oil's, rust removers with no success. I will try to use big pipe wrench with a rag to protect it. Maybe i can get it moving, but it seems pretty stuck on
 

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I am looking at all the rust and overall condition. I love fixing and repairing verses simply replacing parts, but I am thinking that some low mileage used shocks would have been much easier.

But, it seems that you have the front ones working. Hopefully you can do some more mechanical magic and get the back shocks fixed also.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Okey, i think it will not come out in one piece. I don't want to wait for a new air spring to arrive when i would order it, so i will get some good würth epoxy and glue it shut. As it's on the bench i can do a great job at sealing it not like the dealership did with the front RPV valve.
 
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KarlEstoni
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