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I think that's too broad of a statement.
If a specific cross section (size) tire is mounted on the correct width rim, it shouldn't "bulge" out in the center as per your statement above when it is designed to run max pressure of 50psi (for example) and you run it at say 40psi vs the 33psi that's on your sticker. Now take that same scenario and mount it on a 6" wide rim instead of a 8" wide rim and you'll have a different story.

But there are many other factors, such as road surfaces, driving styles, vehicle condition, loads, etc. Everyone needs to understand that stickers are only suggestions and don't apply to all conditions, makes and models of vehicles, etc. Monitor your own situation and requirements and adjust as necessary.
Maybe "tires" are different where you are - but where I live, they wear in the tread centre if over pressure or on the tread shoulders if under pressure - they have done for all of my 50 years driving.
 

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Well, my tires do wear different than your tyres, but since we are having this debate in a technical section, why don't we keep it technical and factual?

Sticker\Placard pressures are determined by the designers based on certain conditions, to be used as a suggested best guess scenario that allows safe operation of the vehicle by a driver who doesn't have the necessary skill\comprehension to make their own adjustments and decisions based on what they are experiencing and what their top priorities are.

Every single pressure between the sticker and the max on the tire is acceptable and will have an impact on everything from wear, to handling, to cornering, to braking, to comfort, to MPGs, etc. Fine "tuning" by the driver based on conditions and priorities is acceptable but not expected. Most people like to get in, turn a key and drive. They can't be bothered to adjust their pressure if their vehicle is floating all over the place, the steering is squishy, or the ride is bumpy, etc. You just go to your mechanic and you whine about your issue.

If your mechanic is worth anything, they will make adjustments based on your complaints and what you're trying to improve upon, and not just set your pressure to the sticker values.

Now if both you and your mechanic aren't up to speed on how inflation pressures impact these dynamics, you can certainly set them to the sticker and go about your life without typing novels trying to discuss the specifics.
 
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Most people like to get in, turn a key and drive.
Do not forget the "it needs gas to run?" question in the morning when the car does not start. My lovely wife is a perfect example of it. She would take fill up subscription service if there was one (note to self: idea for IPO).

As far as tires are concerned, I personally try to stick to the pressures recommended by the car manufacturer and their recommended tire types. With heavier vehicles, all my experiments with non-standard tires ended up with excessive wear & tear, even though I was keeping pressure at recommended levels. The rubber mix and internal tire structure might have something to do with it, especially on faster cornering. I have seen a few interesting video showing tire cross section and what goes into the design of such. It is pretty fascinating.
 

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Tire pressure and rotation is key. I have 149,000 on my '15 TDI TReg, on 2nd set of tires. Factory went about 75K, I put best Michelins on and probably have half life left. Tire pressure checked daily on dashboard, and that matches air chuck, usually change up/down every other week depending on average outside start of day temp. Rotate front to rear and vice-versa every 6,000 mi. Mostly highway driving, very little towing, 67mph standard highway speed, long term mpg 30.1.
 

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Just a data point, but I have had 4 sets of tires on my 2016 which is now at 93,000 miles. I maintain two sets of tires/wheels so it's hard to get exact mileage on each tire, but I'd estimate I got 20,000 miles on my OEM Pirellis and 15,000 miles on my current summer set of Michelin Premier Tour HP; that set is down to the wear bars and will be replaced before my next swtichover in the spring. I corner hard, nd have never achieved 30 mpg (24 - 27 is typical for me). On the other hand, I have only towed for bout 5% of the car's life and am still running the original brakes, so I can't be that hard on the car.

I think a lot of it comes down to road surface. I only get 25,000 miles out of a set of summer tires on our Accord Sport and similar wear on our Jetta. I avoid any tire that has a wear rating in excess of 450; that's just my personal preference. Our 1-ton trucks that have E-load rated tires and have compounds designed to live forever rather than provide grip, run 65,000 to 75,000 miles.

If stopping distance and cornering grip are less important to you, there are a fair number of tires out there with 500 - 600 treadwear ratings out there that you might want to look into.
 

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Well, my tires do wear different than your tyres, but since we are having this debate in a technical section, why don't we keep it technical and factual?

Sticker\Placard pressures are determined by the designers based on certain conditions, to be used as a suggested best guess scenario that allows safe operation of the vehicle by a driver who doesn't have the necessary skill\comprehension to make their own adjustments and decisions based on what they are experiencing and what their top priorities are.

Every single pressure between the sticker and the max on the tire is acceptable and will have an impact on everything from wear, to handling, to cornering, to braking, to comfort, to MPGs, etc. Fine "tuning" by the driver based on conditions and priorities is acceptable but not expected. Most people like to get in, turn a key and drive. They can't be bothered to adjust their pressure if their vehicle is floating all over the place, the steering is squishy, or the ride is bumpy, etc. You just go to your mechanic and you whine about your issue.

If your mechanic is worth anything, they will make adjustments based on your complaints and what you're trying to improve upon, and not just set your pressure to the sticker values.

Now if both you and your mechanic aren't up to speed on how inflation pressures impact these dynamics, you can certainly set them to the sticker and go about your life without typing novels trying to discuss the specifics.
I can't find any learned technical websites which support your insistence on running higher pressures than recommended - perhaps you'd like to suggest a few.
 

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Google is your friend if you want to do research.
I'm also OK if you believe I just make all that $hit up since you've been driving for longer than I've been alive so you're not going to come around now...... I've accepted your opinion (as being just that) at this point based on our exchange.

I myself have driven enough different vehicles, in enough scenarios, under various conditions, at a range of 0-276 kph to know that what I've stated above is correct, and the manufacturer's pressure sticker is not the bible.
 

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Reading material from people who spell "tire" the way you do.... so you know it's legit :)
Thanks - it contains the following statements, I'll let you draw your own conclusions :-

"Over-inflation causes the tyre to be more susceptible to impact damage and in extreme cases may result in rim deformation or even a tyre burst. It can also cause irregular wear"

"Cold inflation pressures must always comply with the vehicle or tyre manufacturer's recommendations for the vehicle, type of tyre and the intended service. It is not recommended for performance and safety reason to operate with pressures different from those specified by the tyre and/or vehicle manufacturers"
 

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I think I had close to 40,000 on the GY LS that were OEM on my '15 TDI. They were at 3/32 then. I replaced with the Verde+ which I estimate to have about 50,000 miles on them and are showing a hair under 4/32.
 

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There are loads of tire/tyre threads on all the car forums with nearly as many different opinions as there are posts!

But one of the key pieces of information that is most often missing is the actual tread depths.

Without this you can't really judge what's what.

Tire/tyre performance falls off a cliff at about 50% worn. That means that as most road biased tires/tyres start with 8 or maybe 9 mm and AT's a millimetre or two more the time to bin them is not when the wear bars show but at 4 or 5 mm. This particularly applies to all weathers/winters/ATs if you are using them for their primary purpose.

In fairness I should add that I think Michelin are running adverts that claim their tire/tyre performance remains consistent down to 3 mm but which model or models I know not.

But back to my original point, telling people how many miles/kms any particular tire/tyre has done is pretty pointless without sharing the tread depth measurements as well!
 

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Volkswagen set such low PSI recommendations on the Touareg because they wanted to induce understeer so the 'average driver' idiot doesn't find themselves in a compromising situation. Just upping the pressures from 38 front/41 rear induced significantly better handling on my Touareg.


Ironically, I JUST NOW looked up what Porsche recommends for 19" tires 2012 year Cayennes, and look at this :cool:
241114




Also, its CRITICAL to rotate your tires on these heavy rides often. Every single time I get an oil change I rotate the tires.
 
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I found the setpoints for the tire pressures in the MFD, with the rear set to the door sticker @ 46 psi. Sidewall says max pressure 44, so I lowered the pressure and reset the setpoint in the dash via VCDS. I do want to rotate them just to have a starting point/reference as the vehicle is new to me. I have not measured the tread depth, but I did look at the date code - mid-2016. I'll grab a tread depth gauge in the near future and see where I'm at in that respect. There is some very minor checking just out from the wheel. Not even enough to notice unless looking closely (like I was) let alone be concerned about yet. I was just curious while I was out playing around underneath, checking things out.

I did notice the actual pressures displayed when the weather suddenly got about 25 degrees F colder and the low tire alert was lit in the speedo. I haven't been able to find the actual pressures in the MFD other than that, though. The manual didn't help in locating this info. Any assistance with where to look would be most appreciated.

The tire mounted now is the Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus . I have no idea how many miles are on these tires, but with a starting tread depth of 12/32, I would venture to say there is easily half tread left. I do not like high treadwear ratings for a tire I'll use year-round, though, as the tires age faster than they are wearing out. I have used Kumho and General tires on my TrailBlazer EXT with great results. Current tire on the TB is the Kuhmo Crugen HT51. It is a similar weight vehicle at about 5,200 lbs. This tire says it is severe snow service rated. OK, I'll buy that - when they are new and the edges are sharp. Not now, 4 years later! I will look at these brands when it comes time to replace the Bridgestones. I haven't found a second set of wheels yet, and I love me some snow tires. I may end up with an ebay set if I can find some. I don't relish the thought of a winter on half-worn, 4 y/o all seasons with a treadwear rating of 800 but posts here suggest this beast is good in the snow if the round, black things are still holding air, so we'll see.
 

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I had the Kuhmo crugen hp71 on the egg... I got exactly 1 year and about 15k miles and they were at the wear bars. luckily discount tire honored the crazy mileage rating and I got a credit of 300 bucks on my yoko geo go55, its been another year and 15k miles. and these still look great, they are somehow quieter and handle well in wet condition... no snow here :) I do rotate 5-10k but both my eggs wear very even, rotating or not. and I use psi ratings on the door..
 

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@izedaman , interesting stats on the HP71's. I have had the HT51's on my TB for 17,215 miles. They were bought in June of '17. Treadwear is 740, which is fine since they are my summer tire. I would guess there is still at least half of the tread left. I saw a listing for the HP71's treadwear rating at 640, which should give a little longer life than you experienced, I would think.
 
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