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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,
Its been a while since I was on, last I reported my car was bringing up a fault P1018 Bank 2 Intake runner lower limit not reached. I had a chat with RossTech and they said do some engine output tests (Ignition on only).
I noted a very slight bit of play in the linkages from the motors to the swirl flap shaft so ordered the parts and fit them.
The car's drivability never changed, when I do the output tests I intermittently get the motor to not work--so I think I have a bad connector somewhere--never mind the default setting is fully open so no damage can occur.
2 days ago I drove the car to work nice and chilled, when I got to work my car suddenly lost all power and struggled to drive around.
I went to work, when I came out I started the car, it struggled to start then coughed into life. It ticks over fine but as soon as I put my foot down to go it takes 10-15 seconds to splutter up to 1500rpm then another 8 seconds to get to about 3500 where the car starts to take off normalish.

Today I stripped the upper intake manifold off to check the swirl flaps (Worried they might have disintegrated) they were loose and operating fine with no sticking (In fact the bearings had a good 1mm of play). Bank 1 was slightly coked up--very minor, bank 2 was oily---not loads but it was wet.

Gone through with VAG com and it had 2 faults:

004120 - Intake Manifold Runner (Bank 2)
P1018 - 001 - Lower limit not reached
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 5
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 123883 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.06.20
Time: 14:46:11

000257 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0101 - 001 - Implausible Signal
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01110001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 124045 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.08.03
Time: 16:48:03

The intake runner fault is the one i'm chasing which I think is a connector issue also it occurred long before the loss of power fault occurred.
The MAF fault was logged when I finished work--the fault started before I started work. No errors were logged when the fault occurred.

I' at a bit of a loss as to what to look for. I reset the DTC fault codes and the MAF fault has gone----yet the car is gutless. Has anyone else had this?

Graham

Has anyone else had this
 

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Graham, my first thoughts were the same as yours, being the inlet runner flaps. After that it starts to be come a bit of a mystery. However the P1018 error sounds the same as I go when I snapped one of my swirl flap to Actuator link rods. The bad connection thought may be worth further investigation.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17426/P1018/004120

Sorry I can't help further.

Stuart..
 

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Regarding, P1018 Bank 2 Intake runner lower limit not reached

This may be worth looking at...Post #6

EGR and intake manifold cleaning 3.0 V6 TDI

However these all point towards a choked manifold, which is not your issue...

???? Stuart..
 

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I had the exact same error on the ross- tech scan " Lower limit not reached, Intake Manifold Runner. I replaced the links and the end connections onto the swirl flaps. The end connectors on to the swirl flaps were badly worn @ 60K km? The right hand bank no issues to replace the left was a PITA.

The mass flow meter could be faulty that will reduce power, I had one fail in another vehicle and the car went into limp home mode.
 

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I replaced the links and the end connections onto the swirl flaps.
W
I guess that this solved the problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I replaced the link arms and the swirl flaps were free and operational. VAG com only shows my swirl flap issue and as the motors are currently operating I think there is an electrical issue which is a feedback issue.
The system does not seem "dumb" and must have a feedback signal from the motor.
I think the feedback from the motor has failed so the car does not know the accurate position of the swirl flaps.
Still this does not account for my low power fault as the car for safety reasons defaults you to open guaranteeing air flow into the engine :(
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Next steps are fuel filter and air system check followed by a sequential check of the actuators including the turbo actuator.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Unfortunately not, I was about 1/4 way into a fresh tank----could be water build up--I have been away 5 weeks before hand????
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have been in the UK for 5 weeks before hand due to a funeral. When I got back I have done a 60k drive and a few 40 k drives before the fault occurred ---- could water build up have filled the fuel filter to the point it brings up an error---but there is no error code???
I'm almost at a loss.
Graham
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, things are strange and definitely electrical. Today I started the engine---- cough cough splutter it ran.
I have thought and thought why could it be fine one minute then bad the next.
So I plugged in the laptop and with the ignition on only done a full sequential output test of every actuator.
All of them performed (touch could see most and hear others.)
After the test, I started the car and she runs like a dream.
So now I'm thinking I have an actuator which is struggling to operate. The laptop stroked this actuator rapidly and 'got it working '.
I'll see how things go.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Doing some more studying---the EGR is a means of getting air/gas into the engine and it bypasses the MAF. So when the car started the other day at work and I got the MAF issue--if the valve was de-energised and supposed to be closed, yet was stuck open the car would have registered low-implausible air flow and an error. If the EGR valve is 'Dumb' and gives no feedback on its position then the car would never know there was a fault and would trigger other alarms such as MAF errors, I suspect the EGR valve is a simple open/close system and not a variable system.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi Guys, salvaging an old thread here--the fault came back on bank 2 then 4 days later bank 1 about 3 weeks ago, the car drove fine with just the engine warning light on. I changed the linkages and the fault returned within 20km of driving.
I bought a swirl flap overhaul kit consisting of bearings, flaps seals, crank and linkage. The job turned out to be a fair bit easier than I was expecting, when you look at all the junk, pipes and equipment over the engine, but it turned out fairly straight forward. The right hand one is hardest due to one lonely coolant pipe from the block and bolted with one of the bolts that hold the swirl flap manifold down.
I also changed the HP pump belt whilst I was in there.

So, it took about 3-4 hrs to do both manifolds. Here is how i done it.

You need VCDS to clear the fault codes, basic fitting tools, and a hose spring clamp removal tool. Tons of degreaser and if you have a compressor it helps blow out all the crud. (If you’re really game use a dishwasher on a hot wash—though i cannot be held accountable for any wife related injuries)
Put a charger on your battery whilst you do the job—you’ll need it for priming the fuel system.

1.) Remove the engine cover (Just yank it straight up)
2.) Remove the intake Y piece (TAKE NOTE OF WHAT BOLT GOES WHERE--There are 3 black bolt sizes-- I use a paint marker to colour code them) (Pic)
3.) Remove the intake pipe between the filter box and the turbo inlet
4.) Unclip and unbolt both swirl flap motors (3 bolts in each) and their linkage arms--the left is a pain due to a bracket which needs slackening and swinging right.
5.) Unbolt the wiring loom clamps (Plastic balls the engine cover pops onto) and free the harness--1 or 2 connectors will need disconnecting to give room.
6.) The small vacuum valve at the front of bank 1 the engine which is mounted on a rubber slide needs electrically disconnecting then popping off its metal mount then laying over. (Pic)
7.) Unscrew the HP fuel lines off the pump, the left hand fuel rail and the transfer line across to the right bank. (Pic)
8.) Unclip the vacuum lines from any holders and the coolant lines which go to the EGR system (They are super brittle—take care—I snapped 1)
9.) Unbolt the swirl flap housings—the bolts are all the same length.
10.) Starting with the left bank carefully rotate the housing slightly anticlockwise about 30 degrees end extract it to the front—(TAKE CARE OF THE GLOW PLUG LINES—THEY’RE BRITTLE)
11.) With the right bank repeat the above method rotating it anticlockwise to get around the coolant pipe which is a pain.
12.) Now clean everything up—spend a good hour scraping & scrubbing, swap your new toys (swirl flaps) across.
13.) Reassembly is the reversal of removal. The bolts need torqueing up—don’t overtighten them they are only brass pegs molded into plastic and can pull out easy.
14.) !!!!!!CRITICAL STEP!!!!!! Once its assembled disconnect your fuel pressure regulator on the left bank fuel runner (CRITICAL)
15.) Triple check all connections are in place and secured—clean the engine bay of tools and equipment.
16.) Crank the engine for 15 seconds—it will not start as the fuel pressure regulator is disconnected and pressure cannot be developed. Your heater coil light will flash as well as the check engine light.
17.) Wait 1-2 minutes to allow the starter to cool down.
18.) Repeat steps 16 & 17 two more times.
19.) Reconnect the fuel pressure regulator.
20.) Start the engine—it takes a bit longer than normal at first but soon returns to its happy fault free self.
21.) Use VCDS to save your fault codes then reset them.
Enjoy.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It wont let me add the other pictures :/
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Friday 17th November ,16:23:12:63161
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 17.1.3.0 (x64)
Data version: 20170320 DS267.7
Ross-Tech: Home


VIN: WVGZZZ7LZ8D029158 License Plate: 304RPS


Address 01: Engine Labels: 059-907-401-ASB.clb
Control Module Part Number: 7L0 907 401 D HW: 7L0 907 401 D
Component and/or Version: 3.0L V6TDI G000AG 0030
Software Coding: 0011775
Work Shop Code: WSC 31414 790 00001
VCID: 2C5D110C8CFD8E2606-5142
4 Faults Found:

012597 - Intake Manifold Runner Control
P3135 - 001 - Lower Stop not Reached - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 37
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 158109 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.10.31
Time: 16:44:21

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 819 /min
Torque: 66.3 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Voltage: 13.83 V
Duty Cycle: 88.8 %
Duty Cycle: 80.9 %
Duty Cycle: 80.9 %

004120 - Intake Manifold Runner (Bank 2)
P1018 - 001 - Lower limit not reached - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 5
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 158136 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.11.02
Time: 18:32:32

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 903 /min
Torque: 54.6 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Voltage: 12.39 V
Duty Cycle: 88.8 %
Duty Cycle: 88.8 %
Duty Cycle: 80.9 %


004501 - Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve (N276)
P1195 - 001 - Open or Short to Ground - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 158421 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Duty Cycle: 1.0 %
Voltage: 11.17 V
Pressure: 0.0 bar
Duty Cycle: 7.5 %


Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Address 01: DTCs cleared
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Address 01: Engine Labels: 059-907-401-ASB.clb
Control Module Part Number: 7L0 907 401 D HW: 7L0 907 401 D
Component and/or Version: 3.0L V6TDI G000AG 0030
Software Coding: 0011775
Work Shop Code: WSC 31414 790 00001
VCID: 2C5D110C8CFD8E2606-5124
1 Fault Found:

004501 - Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve (N276)
P1195 - 001 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 158421 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.11.16
Time: 12:44:31

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Duty Cycle: 1.0 %
Voltage: 12.46 V
Pressure: 0.0 bar
Duty Cycle: 0.4 %


Readiness: 0 0 0 1 1

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Address 01: DTCs cleared
 

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Fault Code 004120, P1018
Inlet manifold flaps.​
Dear All,
I have, once again, the fault 004120. About 50,000 miles ago I had same message and found worn linkage, a worn end stop on one manifold and replaced linkage including crank, one manifold, and replaced the flaps on the grounds that I did not want the engine ingesting them as the shaft was quite worn.
It now seems the aftermarket linkage is not worn but the crank on end of the flap shaft is very slack on the flap shaft allowing the linkage to push the crank too far and so trigger this error message.
On looking on internet I find I have quite a lot of options;
  • Replace both manifolds with aftermarket kit, anyone know if these are any good, at £80 the pair, these seem almost too cheap?
  • Just replace the cranks but I would guess that the flap shaft is also worn and is half this problem.
  • Fit brackets that limit the movement of the actuator arm, this would solve error message but do nothing for the worn bits.
  • Remove flaps altogether and fit above brackets and suffer some reduced fuel consumption. Does anyone have an idea how much fuel economy you lose?
Unfortunately I am down to one car so do not want to take it a part before I have the bits ready to put back together. I recall it is quite a lengthy undertaking removing and refitting the inlet manifolds.
Just to sense check the operation and bear in mind the cranks are very worn, does anyone know what position the flaps should be in when reassembled and in the power off position, I would hate to have these flaps 90 degree out.
Kind regards Lawrie.
 

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Fault Code 004120, P1018
Inlet manifold flaps.​
Dear All,
I have, once again, the fault 004120. About 50,000 miles ago I had same message and found worn linkage, a worn end stop on one manifold and replaced linkage including crank, one manifold, and replaced the flaps on the grounds that I did not want the engine ingesting them as the shaft was quite worn.
It now seems the aftermarket linkage is not worn but the crank on end of the flap shaft is very slack on the flap shaft allowing the linkage to push the crank too far and so trigger this error message.
On looking on internet I find I have quite a lot of options;
  • Replace both manifolds with aftermarket kit, anyone know if these are any good, at £80 the pair, these seem almost too cheap?
  • Just replace the cranks but I would guess that the flap shaft is also worn and is half this problem.
  • Fit brackets that limit the movement of the actuator arm, this would solve error message but do nothing for the worn bits.
  • Remove flaps altogether and fit above brackets and suffer some reduced fuel consumption. Does anyone have an idea how much fuel economy you lose?
Unfortunately I am down to one car so do not want to take it a part before I have the bits ready to put back together. I recall it is quite a lengthy undertaking removing and refitting the inlet manifolds.
Just to sense check the operation and bear in mind the cranks are very worn, does anyone know what position the flaps should be in when reassembled and in the power off position, I would hate to have these flaps 90 degree out.
Kind regards Lawrie.
They should be normally open. They are closed by the ecu at low revs for increased swirl by blocking off the short runner valve for each cylinder, but failsafe is all open.
 
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