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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting P310E code and suspect the EGR cooler is somewhat plugged and needs replacement. Has anyone done this before and have any tips? We replaced the pressure sensor because the dealership thought that was the issue (wasn't). Since I just replaced the EGR valve 6 months ago because it was carboned up, I figure the cooler is also full of carbon and setting off the pressure switch.

The dealer has quoted me about $1200 CDN for the part and 10-12 hrs labour at $104/hr CDN. I've replaced the EGR valve before myself and figured I could tackle the cooler as well.

Questions and concerns:
-I likely have to remove the high pressure fuel line that joins the two fuel rails, will it be under high pressure when vehicle is off? Will I have to do anything special to purge the lines after?
-will I have to purge the coolant lines after reconnecting the cooler?

Any help?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Going ahead with Replacement

I've decided to go ahead with replacing the EGR Cooler. Parts arrived today and I was surprised to see that the assembly includes a new EGR valve. I guess I'll have a good spare since I just replaced mine 6 months ago.
 

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Looks like fun. Are you going to strip and clean the old cooler to retain as a spare? Being blocked with carbon shouldn't be too difficult to clear with the right solvent.

Stuart...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes that's the plan. You'll notice that the cooler portion doesn't split from the bypass valve body like some other VW models, making it a bit harder to clean, but still worth a shot. I'll also be keeping my EGR valve since it's so new. I'll likely use a sea foam to clean it all out. It did a great job on my intake. I'll post photos as I go along this weekend. Cheers
 

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That looks like fun! Be curious to hear how it goes. Is it located behind the motor,drivers side in between the firewall and engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It sits in the "v" of the engine between the intake manifolds and unfortunately below a numbers of tubes, hoses and cables. Here's a photo of it with the EGR valve removed.

Auto part Engine Vehicle Fuel line Car
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So I'm to the point where everything is disconnected, and I have things out of the way. For some reason the coolant connection on the very bottom just won't let go. It's a simple boss with an o-ring seal that plugs into a bored hole in the top of the engine. It wiggles around a lot but won't allow me to lift it up and out. I've spent the last two hrs trying but can't get it to pop free!!! Urgh. Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Finally got it. It was catching on the turbo and the oil filter housing. I don't recommend this job! I have about a million hoses and bolts to replace as things go back together. I've taken lots of pics though.

Here it is with the EGR cooler removed. Looks like I ripped the heart out.



Engine Auto part Vehicle Car Automotive engine part
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It's all back together now and the test drive seems okay. The permanent code P310E is still there but even if fixed it won't clear until a number of drive cycles. It was definitely challenging. I have a bunch of photos so I'll make a DIY sometime. Fingers crossed that my issue stays away!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Still issues

So after changing out the EGR cooler completely, I still have the MIL light. I took it back to the dealership and they investigated for a few hours and determined that I have a vacuum valve leaking. It's located at the firewall side of the drivers side bank (CAD version). It was a super easy valve to change, and after changing it I actually found that the MIL light is more frequent now and returns sooner after deleting it.

It makes me wonder if the electrical connector or the vacuum lines may be the actual problem....any thoughts out there? I need help and don't seem to be getting solutions through the dealership or myself.

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Did I replace the wrong EGR cooler?

I found this diagram online (http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/)..I didn't realize that there are two EGR coolers...a primary and a secondary. Crap! Which one is considered the auxiliary EGR cooler?

I have changed the parts circled in green.
1-vacuum valve
2-EGR cooler (secondary)
3-vacuum valve

I still have this MIL P310E and I can't seem to find the issue! Help!
 

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Just discovered your post. I was gonna let you know that there are two of them. Discovered the hard way after car went into limp home mode while towing my trailer. Real convenient.... not. The dealer replaced one of them to then have the other fail after a couple weeks/months. They've been fine since. Fortunately done under warranty. Have had both catalytic convertors replaced as well! Again under warranty. Wish you luck.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
confirmed the issue

after another trip to the dealer, they still couldn't figure out why I was getting a code even after talking to the VW tech line.

I did a more thorough inspection today and removed the turbo heat shield so that I could see down between the firewall and the back of the engine. I removed the vacuum valve closest to the suspect egr cooler for more access. I ended up finding that the arm that actuated the bypass valve on the cooler was off of the pin, and the pin appeared damaged. Now I know what I need to replace...059131512Q I sure wish they had found that problem before I already spent $1500 and tons of my time....

In the photos I managed to get the actuator arm back onto the pin, but there is nothing to hold it on...but I don't think that matters, as it seems like the bypass valve internal to the egr cooler is f'd, since it doesn't simply move about its axis, but also has a lot of play...likely what caused the actuator arm to come off. The two googled images just give you a better idea of what the part looks like.

Anyone have any shop instructions on how to replace this upstream EGR cooler 059131512Q?

Removal- the coolant and exhaust lines are accessible (very tight though), and two (one near actuator, one near exhaust flanges) of the three mounting bolts are accessible....but how do I get that lower one??

Also, is there any tidy way of draining the coolant? When I did the secondary EGR cooler in the beginning of this thread I made a huge mess on my garage floor. Any help would be appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That looks like fun! Be curious to hear how it goes. Is it located behind the motor,drivers side in between the firewall and engine?
Wish I had paid more attention to your post earlier...then perhaps I would have found the other EGR cooler instead of replacing the one that had nothing wrong with it....
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Looks like fun. Are you going to strip and clean the old cooler to retain as a spare? Being blocked with carbon shouldn't be too difficult to clear with the right solvent.

Stuart...
Yes, now that I know the part I removed had nothing wrong with it, I'm going to clean it up as best I can and keep it stored as a spare...along with the EGR valve. Thanks!
 

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I'm getting P310E code and suspect the EGR cooler is somewhat plugged and needs replacement. Has anyone done this before and have any tips? We replaced the pressure sensor because the dealership thought that was the issue (wasn't). Since I just replaced the EGR valve 6 months ago because it was carboned up, I figure the cooler is also full of carbon and setting off the pressure switch.

The dealer has quoted me about $1200 CDN for the part and 10-12 hrs labour at $104/hr CDN. I've replaced the EGR valve before myself and figured I could tackle the cooler as well.

Questions and concerns:
-I likely have to remove the high pressure fuel line that joins the two fuel rails, will it be under high pressure when vehicle is off? Will I have to do anything special to purge the lines after?
-will I have to purge the coolant lines after reconnecting the cooler?

Any help?
It seems that the only option is replacing the egr cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
There are two egr coolers. Check the valve and linkage operator by hand on both to make sure they move well.

The fuel lines aren't under pressure and actually mine were empty when I took them apart. They must drain back when the engine shuts off.

Coolant will leak everywhere, and I recommend draining as much as possible before hand. Refill after.

In both cases I just turned the ignition off without placing my foot on the brake. This turns on various pumps (except hi press pump), which seemed to purge the lines well. No issues afterwards.
 

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New to the forum, but I purchased a used TDI Touareg for my wife last year. I'm getting the occasional MIL/CEL with the same code you are listing. I'm interested to see the procedure for removing/replacing the EGR's. Also has anyone completely removed these? Obviously it would require a tune to get rid of any MIL/CEL. At this point I'm just wondering is it worth the cost and hassle to replace or remove and be done with the EGR system.
 
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