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Discussion Starter #1
What could be the cause of a coolant breach?
I have a 2007 V10 with 99k on the clock and coolant in the oil.

Do I start looking for a new block and if so where? I not keen on throwing the car away because of this. There must be a fix or at least I hope so.
 

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What could be the cause of a coolant breach?
I have a 2007 V10 with 99k on the clock and coolant in the oil.

Do I start looking for a new block and if so where? I not keen on throwing the car away because of this. There must be a fix or at least I hope so.
Hey a few suggestions other than a (unlikely)cracked block.
- Have you checked the coolant pump ? Serious potential for a coolant into the oil leak as the pump is fitted inside the engine somewhat. Documented history with the R5/transporter engine that runs near an identical coolant pump. This would be my first check!!
- Oil cooler leak ??


Regards
Drag
 

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I agree with Drag on this one, cracked block is unlikely. There are a lot of ways that coolant could enter the oil system, water pump or heat exchanger on the oil filter housing would be the most likely ways.
 

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I agree with Drag on this one, cracked block is unlikely. There are a lot of ways that coolant could enter the oil system, water pump or heat exchanger on the oil filter housing would be the most likely ways.

Hey is that saying you don't agree with me on lots of other things ??


lol


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Drag
 

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Hey is that saying you don't agree with me on lots of other things ??


lol


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Drag
Ha! No, I regard you as the Jedi Master when it comes to V10's! I am no longer scared to drop the Engine on mine (twice) because of all the info and advice!
 

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Ha! No, I regard you as the Jedi Master when it comes to V10's! I am no longer scared to drop the Engine on mine (twice) because of all the info and advice!

Gee right back at you.
I see by your signature you removed your upsized turbo's?
Also I sent you a message a while back about your colt cams I was interested if you timed them to the std VW method and spec or another method?


Reason I ask this I have some V10 cams being made locally and just want to compare some ideas on cam timing due to the slightly different lobe and timing on the new cams.


Regards
Drag
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks
We will check the coolant pump as we did check the oil cooler and it checks out ok
I will report back

Van
 

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Gee right back at you.
I see by your signature you removed your upsized turbo's?
Also I sent you a message a while back about your colt cams I was interested if you timed them to the std VW method and spec or another method?


Reason I ask this I have some V10 cams being made locally and just want to compare some ideas on cam timing due to the slightly different lobe and timing on the new cams.


Regards
Drag

Hi Drag, yes I removed the bigger turbos. The car ran fine for the first 3000 miles, then started having issues. The turbo lag became greater and then it started going into limp mode. The R/H Side Turbo would not spool as well as the L/H, even after trying multiple different actuators on it. It finally got to the point where I could clear the codes, turn the car off, then back on, stomp the pedal to the floor and it would run ok - until it dropped back down to idle, then it would immediately go into limp mode when trying to accelerate again. So 4497 miles and five months after all the work I put into it, I had to pull the engine again and replace the turbos with stock units. I've now got 200+ miles on it since then and it runs like it was new. Hopefully I can go a while before it needs anything major again.
Sorry I didn't get back to you about how I timed the cams. I did use the VW method of timing them using a dial indicator on the Injector Arm. I set them to the stock specification, and I was very precise with it. I think side to side was around .001" different, and the car runs and idles great. I'm curious how your cams will work out, I imagine that you could play around with the timing a little bit for some interesting results?


Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter #9
We are going to replace the coolant pump and seals. Is it best to drop the motor or to pull the front end off?

Van
 

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I would pull the front end apart. You'll have to drain the coolant and evacuate the A/C, but you wouldn't have to get the car re-aligned. It's quite easy to have the front end taken apart in just a couple of hours with two people. Make sure that you take lots of pictures to document how it goes together. Each time I've done it I messed up some part of the installation and had to backtrack a bit. The coolant pump is underneath the harmonic balancer, so you'll have to take that off and a few other hard coolant lines and electrical connections.

The water pump is underneath the cover that has the VW Symbol and the P/N's on it in this picture. The thing above it is where the Thermostat Housing bolts into the Oil Filter Housing, and that is where the heat exchanger for the oil/coolant is located also.
 

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I'll be doing this job in about 2 weeks time. If you have gone ahead with the work, do you have any tips?

In that picture (page 1) they are using gear/cam locking tools. Is this required as part of the job?

Cheers.
 

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I'll be doing this job in about 2 weeks time. If you have gone ahead with the work, do you have any tips?

In that picture (page 1) they are using gear/cam locking tools. Is this required as part of the job?

Cheers.
The timing tools that you see in the photo was from when I had my engine torn down to install new cams. They are not required for the R&R of the water pump or the Oil Filter Housing. As far as tips - Just follow the manual, and replace all gaskets/seals/bolts that the manual calls out for and all should be just fine.

Let me know if you have any questions along the way, I'd be happy to answer them.
 
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