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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to figure out what turbo actuators will work with my 2004 Touareg V10 TDI engine code BKW.

Bought it thinking it may need the engine pulled for new turbos due to codes and no boost. Found bank 2/left side actuator unplugged, plugged it in and now i have half boost. Bank 1/right side sets a turbo controller missing messages code, and produces no boost on that side. I took the actuator apart, looks good inside, and the motor spins easily if i apply 12v to it. Plugged it into the left side, and it still won't work. So I'm certain the controller is dead and it's not a wiring issue.

Now I'm on the hunt for a replacement bank1/right side actuator. As I understand it, they must be coded as left or right (bank 1 or bank 2). On my bank 2/left actuator (working side), the numbers are 730314 6nw-009-228, yet on the bank 1/right actuator (non-working side) its 712120 6nw-008-412 G145.

My question is, what actuators will work for my bank 1/right side? does the Garrett number matter, as long as its coded for a V10 TDI bank 1/right side? Could I use a 730314 on the right side as long as its coded for right side?
 

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Trying to figure out what turbo actuators will work with my 2004 Touareg V10 TDI engine code BKW.

Bought it thinking it may need the engine pulled for new turbos due to codes and no boost. Found bank 2/left side actuator unplugged, plugged it in and now i have half boost. Bank 1/right side sets a turbo controller missing messages code, and produces no boost on that side. I took the actuator apart, looks good inside, and the motor spins easily if i apply 12v to it. Plugged it into the left side, and it still won't work. So I'm certain the controller is dead and it's not a wiring issue.

Now I'm on the hunt for a replacement bank1/right side actuator. As I understand it, they must be coded as left or right (bank 1 or bank 2). On my bank 2/left actuator (working side), the numbers are 730314 6nw-009-228, yet on the bank 1/right actuator (non-working side) its 712120 6nw-008-412 G145.

My question is, what actuators will work for my bank 1/right side? does the Garrett number matter, as long as its coded for a V10 TDI bank 1/right side? Could I use a 730314 on the right side as long as its coded for right side?



I believe that the controllers are the same from side to side.
BUT when they are fitted that becomes their location they cannot be refitted in the opposite side.
I also believe that they can be swapped from engine to engine provided it is the same location/side they came from.


I believe if you purchase an expensive coder of some kind you may be able to recode to swap sides.


Plenty of turbo's for sale out of Europe


regards
Drag
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I also believe that they can be swapped from engine to engine provided it is the same location/side they came from.

regards
Drag
That's what I figured. Just purchased a right side actuator from a 2004 V10 TDI. Hopefully this gets it sorted out. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Finally got my actuator from Germany after a month. Seller stated it was in good working condition, and for the right side. Plugged it in, and still got codes for missing messages and no operation during output tests. Opened it up and found the drive gear broken. :mad:

Swapped the circuit board onto my good gearbox assembly and plugged it back in. Still got a missing messages code. :mad:

Found another one from sale in California, but it's $500. :(
 

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Finally got my actuator from Germany after a month. Seller stated it was in good working condition, and for the right side. Plugged it in, and still got codes for missing messages and no operation during output tests. Opened it up and found the drive gear broken. :mad:

Swapped the circuit board onto my good gearbox assembly and plugged it back in. Still got a missing messages code. :mad:

Found another one from sale in California, but it's $500. :(
How much is a new one? EST tuning maybe.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
How much is a new one? EST tuning maybe.
The only way you can buy a new actuator is by purchasing a new turbo assembly. Garrett/Hella don't sell the actuators separately.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
UPDATE - FIXED!

Haven't had much time to tinker on the Touareg, been mucking with my MK1 16VG60 for the past bit. After trying 3 different actuators and having no success, still receiving "missing messages" codes for bank 1, I busted out my multi meter and found that the CAN-HI wire on at the bank 1 connector had high resistance. Followed the wiring to the splices under the plenum fuse box and found it all green. :confused: Repaired the splice, ran output tests and.... BOTH ACTUATORS MOVED! :dance: BUT - i still had a "missing messages" code for bank 1. WTF?! After some more diag I confirmed that I had received 3 bank 2 actuators, despite the sellers assuring me they were from bank 1. :mad:

Long story short, I plugged in the original actuator that came with it, cleared codes, ran tests and every works peachy keen! :) Took it for a good drive and holy crap! I've had several 400hp Audis, but the torque of the V10 TDI is absurd!

Poor splices seem to be an issue on these trucks, I've never heard of any other VW/Audi having so many issues that are due to bad factory splices. :(
 

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The plenum fills with water. Have you removed the bladder valves at each end. Nice touch but no match for the debris that collects there.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The plenum fills with water. Have you removed the bladder valves at each end. Nice touch but no match for the debris that collects there.
Plenum drains are clear, zero water in there. The plenum fuse box is pretty well sealed so I doubt there was water in there. Either way, all fixed now. Still getting used to the torque of the V10. :D
 

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UPDATE - FIXED!

Haven't had much time to tinker on the Touareg, been mucking with my MK1 16VG60 for the past bit. After trying 3 different actuators and having no success, still receiving "missing messages" codes for bank 1, I busted out my multi meter and found that the CAN-HI wire on at the bank 1 connector had high resistance. Followed the wiring to the splices under the plenum fuse box and found it all green. :confused: Repaired the splice, ran output tests and.... BOTH ACTUATORS MOVED! :dance: BUT - i still had a "missing messages" code for bank 1. WTF?! After some more diag I confirmed that I had received 3 bank 2 actuators, despite the sellers assuring me they were from bank 1. :mad:

Long story short, I plugged in the original actuator that came with it, cleared codes, ran tests and every works peachy keen! :) Took it for a good drive and holy crap! I've had several 400hp Audis, but the torque of the V10 TDI is absurd!

Poor splices seem to be an issue on these trucks, I've never heard of any other VW/Audi having so many issues that are due to bad factory splices. :(
Where did you get the wiring diagrams for tests like this?
I've downloaded what I think is everything I could from Erwin, but it still lacks good wiring detail.

I'm chasing an intermittent turbo actuator fault and want to check some of these things.

Any help much appreciated.

Paul.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I use VESIS/ElsaWin for wiring diagrams. What year is yours? I believe they're all wired the same, but here's the diagrams for a 2004.

The wiring from each side comes up the front of the engine, over the V of the block, into the rain tray/plenum, under the left rain tray fuse box, then back to the ECUs on the right side of the plenum. I found a bad splice under the fuse box. Break out your multimeter and check resistance between each turbo actuator connecter and the respective pin on the respective ECU connector. You can also check continuity between the two actuator plugs. Check between pin 3 on each connector for CAN-hi, and pin 5 for CAN-low.
 

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Thank you for that. Where would I find VESIS/ElsaWin?

I'm having some intermittent comms between rear diff lock and transfer case and instrument cluster. Also getting occasional implausible signal from one of the turbo actuators. (cant remember which one right now) which causes the turbo cutout but with no CEL.
The turbo 'cutout' only seems to happen when I've been driving for close to 2 hrs, and its only happened when I've been towing our camper trailer. As usual a key off restart resets it, some times it will happen again, sometimes not.
I've not had it happen without the trailer and I've done a few long trips. Perhaps the additional load does something, I don't know.

I'm going to pull up the carpet, and check out this location you've mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The splice isn’t under carpet, it’s in the rain tray, underneath the fuse box that’s in the plenum at the bottom of windshield.
 

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Sorry I wrote that badly.
I meant pull up carpet and check those splices, then also check the one you've mentioned under the engine bay fuse box.
 

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Thank you for that. Where would I find VESIS/ElsaWin?

I'm having some intermittent comms between rear diff lock and transfer case and instrument cluster. Also getting occasional implausible signal from one of the turbo actuators. (cant remember which one right now) which causes the turbo cutout but with no CEL.
The turbo 'cutout' only seems to happen when I've been driving for close to 2 hrs, and its only happened when I've been towing our camper trailer. As usual a key off restart resets it, some times it will happen again, sometimes not.
I've not had it happen without the trailer and I've done a few long trips. Perhaps the additional load does something, I don't know.

I'm going to pull up the carpet, and check out this location you've mentioned.
How may km on the car ?
IMHO a strong chance it is the vanes in the turbo encountering resistance which then translates back to the servo motor.
This happens only when the trailer is on, as the vanes and the servos need to move to the extremes of their specified range due to the additional load of the camper.
This is the range that is not constantly used and build up occurs within that area.
The servo (controller ) sees resistance (electrical load) and basically trips out.
That is why a simple restart fixes it as until you do the same thing again. Until then everything seems good to the servo.


regards
Drag
 

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Good evening Drag i am having the same problem as PJMax mine has 210k KM and has been doing it since i got it at 168k. when i deleted the primary cats i removed the arms and sprayed oven cleaner in the back of the turbo and moved the arms to there full movement numaras times, this made no difference also mine gets full throttle lots of times without the trailer and i have no problems. give it aprox 2 hrs towing and it looses power until i cycle the ignition. i was thinking a over temp problem with the turbo but after a ignition cycle i could drive aprox 1 hr and on the way home 3 or 4 hrs no problem. i can not work it out. thanks for any input Vaughan.
 

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Hi Drag,
Thanks for your input.

My car has 207k and has pretty much done it since I've owned it from 173k.
Just as Vaughan, mine doesn't get driven like Miss Daisy every day, it gets the occasional squirt. (Who can resist the torque?)

I thought the same about the vanes jamming up, but I've done the range test in vcds and the servo moves quickly and seems to get to the end points no problem, so I'm not sure.
There is a slight rotational play in the servo if I try to move it with fingers, not sure if that is normal or a sign of worn bits.
I haven't disconnected the linkage to check for free movement though.

I will try to remember to post my log tonight.
 
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