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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
I am the original owner of an 06 V10 with 60k miles and still lover it. Correct 60k

Right now it has what seems to be a tandem pump leak and also oil in the passenger side intercooler. Turbos were already replaced at 38k miles.

Car runs fine, no power loss etc.

I probably need the engine out to not only replace the tandem pump but to inspect the turbos and probably have them remanufactured at that time.

The questions I have.....

1) Is it worth it to consider upgrading the turbos or is the tuning thing a nightmare nevermind the stresses on the vehicle components afterwards.

2) Is it worth considering replacing the turbos with new ones instead of having the existing ones remanufactured?

3) When the engine is down what else can I fix that is known to break at some point.

4) Parts source for tandem pump and whatever else would be appreciated.

My v10 is mint inside and I really enjoy having it, but not quite sure if spending more than 10 grand on it is worth it. My figure is 10 grand, but that can change pending what opinions I read.

Thanks guys!
 

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Hi,
snip
The questions I have.....

1) Is it worth it to consider upgrading the turbos or is the tuning thing a nightmare nevermind the stresses on the vehicle components afterwards.

2) Is it worth considering replacing the turbos with new ones instead of having the existing ones remanufactured?

3) When the engine is down what else can I fix that is known to break at some point.

4) Parts source for tandem pump and whatever else would be appreciated.

snip

Thanks guys!
Q1) From all the discussions I have heard there is simply no room to put in bigger turbos. One of the choke points is the exhaust flow into the turbo and back out (at a larger diameter). NO SPACE!
Q2 Whatever the source was (re-man or new) for the turbo replacements at 38K mi (not km?- you are from Canada?) you better do the other choice. That clearly didn't work out well. My preference would be re-man but mine were also replaced - under warranty - with new and the dealer wouldn't think of re-manufactured ones. Oil in the charge air plumbing on the passenger side mearly means there is some oil coming out the front bearing. Oil flow by that bearing is essential for the bearing to be properly lubricated and some pass more oil than others.
For the tandem pump the oil leak is probably all from the seal between the pump body and the head. There is normally no need to replace the pump at all to fix that. However, if you are doing it yourself and either the fuel plow/pressure is messed up or the vacuum is questionable I have read on this forum that some have replaced parts inside this pump themselves. Not at all sure where they got the parts (Europe?).
Q3) When the engine was out on mine (see warranty replacement of turbos/tandem pump leak above) I had the technician replace as many coolant hoses as practicable. The theory was that whenever a hose has to be disconnected to drop the engine (after 10 years of service) it is MUCH more likely to leak if the old hose is reused. Some have also advocated replacing the rubber coupling driving the alternator. If you are doing it yourself a very good idea and MUCH easier with the motor out.
Hope this helps.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info, much appreciated.

I don't need to replace the turbos as there is no power loss. I just figured that if I'm taking the engine down I can just as well take them off and have them remanufactured at that time.

I may just keep driving it and see if the tandem pump oil leak gets worse and then decide.
 

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The oil leak from the tandem pump will NOT get better by itself! And it will get worse sooner rather than later.
As far as replacing/rebuilding the turbos goes ... If you DO remove the engine for other reasons, I would make the r/r decision based on the amount of 'play' at the compressor wheel of the turbine. With the front of the compressor stage removed to access the nut on the compressor wheel - put your finger on the nut and push radially. Any movement you can feel indicates wear in the front bearing and is cause to repair. Axial movement however is not nearly as important and quite a bit can be tolerated without loss of function.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I know the leak won't get better. It's just a bad time of the year to not have a awd vehicle for an extended period of time. I just want to try to get to the spring before getting the work done.

I'll keep a close eye on how much it leaks out and keep an eye on the oil level which is a little tangly as well as the last time it was at the dealer they broke the tip of the dipstick off. I only have 1/4 inch plastic left on the dipstick. Presumably the broken off piece is stuck inside the tube
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was wondering whether someone could help me with parts numbers and vendors for 2006 V10 TDI

1) A/C drive coupling and pulley
2) Alternator coupling and pulley
 

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The tandem pump can be repaired w/o dropping the engine but VW will not do it. If you do eventually drop the engine be sure to replace the dpf pressure sensors G450/G451 and probably the oxygen sensors as well.
 

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Considering with just a chip tune you can overpower the transmission I don't see the need for bigger turbos on a V10.

-J
 
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