He needs to start posting full scans, or they won't be much help either, but def a good suggestion.
V10 no start when hot
So I'm almost able to drive my 2006 V10 after a year, but I cannot get the engine to start after the coolant gets up to temp. When the engine is cold, or slightly warm, I can kill it and it will start right back up. When it's up to temp, if I kill it and immediately try to restart, it just cranks. I'm reaching the end of my ideas to figure this out. Here is what I've done so far to try to change this:
Fresh fuel
Removed and cleaned fuel pumps/filters, new fuel filter
Hardwired fuel pump to run continuously
Added jumper cables to another running engine to add starting power
Released pressure in coolant system
Opened PCV to atmosphere
Removed coolant temp connector
Removed coolant return temp connector
Opened ECU to check for corrosion: appears all intact, no areas of damage or corrosion
Checked all fuses and relays
Currently, cam position sensor is still reading "signal out of range", so signal return wire has been removed from ECU wire harness. This leaves "no signal" fault.
Also, Steering Angle sensor is not working despite all wires being intact and voltages present, leading to steering and steering wheel electronics faults.
Batteries and related grounds are in good condition, with batteries being kept on a charger/tender.
I'm also posting before and after scans of the hot no-start, as well as video of it cranking while hot.
If I can solve this, I'll finally be able to drive this beast on a regular basis.
Fresh fuel
Removed and cleaned fuel pumps/filters, new fuel filter
Hardwired fuel pump to run continuously
Added jumper cables to another running engine to add starting power
Released pressure in coolant system
Opened PCV to atmosphere
Removed coolant temp connector
Removed coolant return temp connector
Opened ECU to check for corrosion: appears all intact, no areas of damage or corrosion
Checked all fuses and relays
Currently, cam position sensor is still reading "signal out of range", so signal return wire has been removed from ECU wire harness. This leaves "no signal" fault.
Also, Steering Angle sensor is not working despite all wires being intact and voltages present, leading to steering and steering wheel electronics faults.
Batteries and related grounds are in good condition, with batteries being kept on a charger/tender.
I'm also posting before and after scans of the hot no-start, as well as video of it cranking while hot.
If I can solve this, I'll finally be able to drive this beast on a regular basis.
61 - 66 of 66 Posts
Yes, only an issue when hot. Once I drive, and the engine is warmed it cranks slower, sounds like a couple of cylinders are trying to fire, but won’t fully catch and start. I also get a little white smoke from the tailpipes during that.Voltage drop test as per last video with a DVOM. This will narrow down the connection\cable\circuit that's the issue (positive\negative).
But if you say it only becomes an issue when HOT, it's probably something else.
Have you logged your cranking speed and voltage during a COLD start and a HOT start to see if anything jumps out?
I’ll log crank speed and voltage on Monday, and post a new full auto scan. Thanks.
Try pulling the plug off the temp sensors to see if it defaults to cold start map again and re-initiates the glow plugs.
Or at the very least, see if the glow plugs are being activated when it doesn't want to start.... it's starting to sound like you've got leaky injectors. Have you checked your deviations to see if they are fairly close to eachother? It is full of power otherwise when running? Or could you have a hurt motor that's low on compression on some cylinders?
Or at the very least, see if the glow plugs are being activated when it doesn't want to start.... it's starting to sound like you've got leaky injectors. Have you checked your deviations to see if they are fairly close to eachother? It is full of power otherwise when running? Or could you have a hurt motor that's low on compression on some cylinders?
Injector numbers are close mostly at -0.5ish, one is at 1.4ish. Different but within the -2 to 2 that they should be. Cylinders were deglazed and pistons all were cleaned and new rings gapped and installed. It does have full power when running.Try pulling the plug off the temp sensors to see if it defaults to cold start map again and re-initiates the glow plugs.
Or at the very least, see if the glow plugs are being activated when it doesn't want to start.... it's starting to sound like you've got leaky injectors. Have you checked your deviations to see if they are fairly close to eachother? It is full of power otherwise when running? Or could you have a hurt motor that's low on compression on some cylinders?
Those values are way more liberal than anything I've heard about as good.... did you get those from an official document?
I believe these values are the reference values when you hover over the measuring block numbers.Those values are way more liberal than anything I've heard about as good.... did you get those from an official document?
61 - 66 of 66 Posts
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