He needs to start posting full scans, or they won't be much help either, but def a good suggestion.
Yes, only an issue when hot. Once I drive, and the engine is warmed it cranks slower, sounds like a couple of cylinders are trying to fire, but won’t fully catch and start. I also get a little white smoke from the tailpipes during that.Voltage drop test as per last video with a DVOM. This will narrow down the connection\cable\circuit that's the issue (positive\negative).
But if you say it only becomes an issue when HOT, it's probably something else.
Have you logged your cranking speed and voltage during a COLD start and a HOT start to see if anything jumps out?
Injector numbers are close mostly at -0.5ish, one is at 1.4ish. Different but within the -2 to 2 that they should be. Cylinders were deglazed and pistons all were cleaned and new rings gapped and installed. It does have full power when running.Try pulling the plug off the temp sensors to see if it defaults to cold start map again and re-initiates the glow plugs.
Or at the very least, see if the glow plugs are being activated when it doesn't want to start.... it's starting to sound like you've got leaky injectors. Have you checked your deviations to see if they are fairly close to eachother? It is full of power otherwise when running? Or could you have a hurt motor that's low on compression on some cylinders?
I believe these values are the reference values when you hover over the measuring block numbers.Those values are way more liberal than anything I've heard about as good.... did you get those from an official document?