Everything can be redone if the drive to do it is there. They are just machines. We build them!
V10 no start when hot
So I'm almost able to drive my 2006 V10 after a year, but I cannot get the engine to start after the coolant gets up to temp. When the engine is cold, or slightly warm, I can kill it and it will start right back up. When it's up to temp, if I kill it and immediately try to restart, it just cranks. I'm reaching the end of my ideas to figure this out. Here is what I've done so far to try to change this:
Fresh fuel
Removed and cleaned fuel pumps/filters, new fuel filter
Hardwired fuel pump to run continuously
Added jumper cables to another running engine to add starting power
Released pressure in coolant system
Opened PCV to atmosphere
Removed coolant temp connector
Removed coolant return temp connector
Opened ECU to check for corrosion: appears all intact, no areas of damage or corrosion
Checked all fuses and relays
Currently, cam position sensor is still reading "signal out of range", so signal return wire has been removed from ECU wire harness. This leaves "no signal" fault.
Also, Steering Angle sensor is not working despite all wires being intact and voltages present, leading to steering and steering wheel electronics faults.
Batteries and related grounds are in good condition, with batteries being kept on a charger/tender.
I'm also posting before and after scans of the hot no-start, as well as video of it cranking while hot.
If I can solve this, I'll finally be able to drive this beast on a regular basis.
Fresh fuel
Removed and cleaned fuel pumps/filters, new fuel filter
Hardwired fuel pump to run continuously
Added jumper cables to another running engine to add starting power
Released pressure in coolant system
Opened PCV to atmosphere
Removed coolant temp connector
Removed coolant return temp connector
Opened ECU to check for corrosion: appears all intact, no areas of damage or corrosion
Checked all fuses and relays
Currently, cam position sensor is still reading "signal out of range", so signal return wire has been removed from ECU wire harness. This leaves "no signal" fault.
Also, Steering Angle sensor is not working despite all wires being intact and voltages present, leading to steering and steering wheel electronics faults.
Batteries and related grounds are in good condition, with batteries being kept on a charger/tender.
I'm also posting before and after scans of the hot no-start, as well as video of it cranking while hot.
If I can solve this, I'll finally be able to drive this beast on a regular basis.
41 - 60 of 66 Posts
So, voltage drop…..12.6v at the positive jumper bolt, and 10.6v at the starter connection. I am shopping now to make my own replacement.
I’m trying to measure the diameter of the cable, and my best guess is that this is 1/0 gauge. Does anyone know for sure?
I’m trying to measure the diameter of the cable, and my best guess is that this is 1/0 gauge. Does anyone know for sure?
Make sure you isolate the correct problem component/connector .... It could be the power cable, its connectors, the grounding between the starter casing/mounting bolts, block, the engine ground strap, battery terminal connectors, etc.
Thank you. I did resistance testing from each battery to the starter. All resistance and voltage are good until I check from the jumper positive bolt to the starter. Going to replace the cable from the jumper to the starter.
Progress is good.... especially when the parts cannon is still empty. 
On a separate note, I was sitting in the drivers seat, door open and car off, working on the center console. Out of nowhere there a loud “pop” and the left front suspension dropped all the way down. Air spring popped. 2 new ones for the front ordered.
Wait a second.... are you talking about the jumper post?Going to replace the cable from the jumper to the starter.
(like where you hookup jumper cables when the batteries are dead)
Positive jumper post is where the main positive power cable connects to the main positive lug on the starter (jumper post is the nut which holds the starter cable lug). Positive from battery goes to other terminal on jumper box, gets tightened down with the B+ from the generator. So…..starter positive, generator B+, and battery positive are all connected at the jumper post.
From what I understand, terminal 50 supplies the power to the solenoid relay which engages the starter. I don’t think the full power to the starter goes through terminal 50.Isn't the power supplied off the Terminal 50 Voltage Supply Relay?
Something like C20 in the E-box?
View attachment 254202
I am hoping you find something that I have missed so I don’t have to replace that cable.
I think I follow what you are saying now.
Have you tried to first undo that connection (B) besides the post to clean\sand down every lug\eyelet\surface to see if you can get an improvement? Same goes for the connection on the starter which I believe you said you've replaced.... so I can only assume that one was cleaned right?
Have you tried to first undo that connection (B) besides the post to clean\sand down every lug\eyelet\surface to see if you can get an improvement? Same goes for the connection on the starter which I believe you said you've replaced.... so I can only assume that one was cleaned right?
It sounds like to took voltage measurements based on what you said above. Did you actually do voltage drop test while cranking? Here's a good example of how a crappy connection can cause issues.
I actually did this right before I took the picture. I took a first picture:I think I follow what you are saying now.
Have you tried to first undo that connection (B) besides the post to clean\sand down every lug\eyelet\surface to see if you can get an improvement? Same goes for the connection on the starter which I believe you said you've replaced.... so I can only assume that one was cleaned right?
then saw how nasty it looked and cleaned it up:
Improved a little but still no start when hot. I did clean the end and post on the starter when I installed it. I did not do a voltage drop during cranking, just watched the voltmeter on the instrument cluster. Voltage there stays at about 10 while cranking. I’ll check it at the starter next chance I get.
Voltage drop test as per last video with a DVOM. This will narrow down the connection\cable\circuit that's the issue (positive\negative).
But if you say it only becomes an issue when HOT, it's probably something else.
Have you logged your cranking speed and voltage during a COLD start and a HOT start to see if anything jumps out?
But if you say it only becomes an issue when HOT, it's probably something else.
Have you logged your cranking speed and voltage during a COLD start and a HOT start to see if anything jumps out?
What other codes do you still have lingering? Post another full autoscan.
So it Cranks and No start, or it doesn't even CRANK?Improved a little but still no start when hot.
Have you considered asking the team at Ross-tech for help?
FWIW
FWIW
41 - 60 of 66 Posts
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