I searched the wiring diagram for “109” no relay came up, just footwell flap motor.Agree cranking RPM appears way too low.
There was also a famous failure in the early TDI days (unsure if it impacted v10)... Trying to remember the farm component name. Ah yes, relay 109. Does the v10 have one?
Professor, you keep getting the codes 012545 and 012546 intake flap valve motor problems, you don’t suppose they are stuck closed when hot? Or perhaps the ECM needs to know they are open before it fires the injectors. Random thoughts, not to well organized! Best of luck ProfI searched the wiring diagram for “109” no relay came up, just footwell flap motor.
I just went through this whole thread again as there's a lot of flaky info in it.That sounds like the classic Crankshaft position sensor failure
What am I missing?scan said:012295 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
P3007 - 000 - No Signal
Very unlikely as the intake flaps are mainly used for regulating intake\exhaust pressure difference required for proper EGR function.Professor, you keep getting the codes 012545 and 012546 intake flap valve motor problems, you don’t suppose they are stuck closed when hot? Or perhaps the ECM needs to know they are open before it fires the injectors. Random thoughts, not to well organized! Best of luck Prof
I get where you are coming from. From what I can see, they are open. I’ve tried to push them to close and the motor is active and holding them open.Professor, you keep getting the codes 012545 and 012546 intake flap valve motor problems, you don’t suppose they are stuck closed when hot? Or perhaps the ECM needs to know they are open before it fires the injectors. Random thoughts, not to well organized! Best of luck Prof
The power supply replay is a thing on small 4 banger TDIs.... not for this beast!There was also a famous failure in the early TDI days (unsure if it impacted v10)... Trying to remember the darn component name. Ah yes, relay 109. Does the v10 have one?
I wasn't sure. Was shooting in the dark.The power supply replay is a thing on small 4 banger TDIs.... not for this beast!
You should work on your reading comprehension then.I just went through this whole thread again as there's a lot of flaky info in it.
I don't even know how both you and the OP have gone to the Crank sensor, when the codes are for the CAMSHAFT
What am I missing?
So I postulated about a possible issue right near the beginning of this whole thread, well before the OP had even tried to log his RPM. All the information that was available from a VCDS scan with time stamped codes.So what's he getting his hot rpm readings from? The same failed hot sensor?
Sorry Savage, I didn’t recall reading this last post. I did replace the starter. New (used) starter seemed stronger and spun faster on the bench so I put it in. Ive had better starts, but still won’t start when fully hot. I wish I would have remembered this. Gotta check the voltage drop at the starter B+ connection next.Before a new starter, look into the cable/wiring. Voltage drop test the system. Some bad connections will heat up and fail or become flaky after initial use (aka initial start)
It’s too bad the main starter + wire isn’t made anymore. If it needs replaced, buy a used one and hope for the best? Or is it possible to make a new one and use all the old brackets?20+ year old wires tend to rott and need replacing or at the very least connectors/terminals need cleaning up. You'd be shocked how often voltage drop is a thing.
