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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Thank you everyone especailly Schootsie for the detailed information on the teardown. Where did you recieve your information if you don't mind me asking (PM is ok).

Sorry for all of the bad spelling on here lately. I never go back and read my threads anymore.

Also thank you for the information on those repair manual services. I have contacted a few of the buyers of the Touereg DVD to see if it is worth their time and money. I might just purchase a weeks access to that program as steep as the price is. Sadly though with moving and starting to fly at a new unit I doubt I doubt I am going to have a full week or even evening to work on it soon so it would be a waste I would think. It is going to be a half weekend here and there and a couple hours here and there type of project for the next couple months I presume.

Attached are some photos. The Cam drive gear is shown in the back and those black plates on eitherside of the gears are the arms that goe down allowing it to move as it expands. That Cam drive was a paint to get off and I still ned to remove one banjo bolt from it in order to pull it out of there. I wish I would have known that as I would have removed it first. It is going to take me 30 minutes just to try and get it removed I'm sure and I bet I will also drop that copper washer into no mans land. Also the Cam drive on the passenger side I still have not been able to get off. There are only 2 6mm hex bolts holding it in but one is so close to the firewall that I can't get to it. I will have to get creative.

I can feel the nut on the back that I need to remove. I'm guessing it is around a 22mm as that seems to be the standard on large metric nuts. Hopefully I can get back there with my ratchet and socket. If anything at least the socket and then I can go out and purchase the correct size wrench. I'm sure with it being in the car I'm going to have to get out the torch and vice and bend the wrench so I can get back there and still have clearance and torque (looks like is is on there good) to get it loosed and out.

So I guess it looks like I have about 5 more pain in the ass bolts to get out and finally "OFF WITH HER HEADS"
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #22 ·
Not the most successful day. I took off a few more plugs and coolant hoses to clear things out of the way. Removed the other Cam Driver on the back of the head. There is an oil cooler line that goes to the turbo that is directly over the nut to take that gear out. I tried to remove it but it requires a wrench on the other side to keep it from spinning and it just wasn't happening. I was able to pry it out of the way enough to get an adjustable wrench on there (it is a 35 or 36mm) but with all of my might I could not budge it. But considering it is on there with 110ftlbs plus 90 degrees it is more than I could pull with my 10 inch wrench.

I'm either going to have to find a way to bend a long 35mm wrench to make it long enough I can fit it out of the way of the firewall or I'm going to have to remove the engine plain and simple. Mainly I'm worried if that bolt is to long to come out the back before hitting the firewall.

I packed up all the parts and labeled them and threw them in the back of the car. I will try one last time to get those heads off before I leave but it is time to start packing up the garage and getting ready for the move.
 
Not finishing this job now is going to make it rough to get everything back together ! Just go to northern tool or get on craigslist and buy an engine lift... probably make your life a lot easier.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
I have access to a lift on post and as long as the new post is the same as here I can rent a two lift bay by the month for about 200 a month. I hate hanging out down at work that much but it may end up being what happens if I can not get these heads off at home.

Like I said I'm soooooo close and I think it will come out the back if I can just get it lose. I think if I buy a long wrench and heat it up and bend it so I can get in the open portion of the bay I will be able to losen it up and I'm good to go after that.
 
Ref the engine lift - all the pix I have seen of a V10 engine removed shows the car up in the air and the engine being dropped on a special frame.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Ref the engine lift - all the pix I have seen of a V10 engine removed shows the car up in the air and the engine being dropped on a special frame.
Yep I have an engine lift and stand but agree that it would be easier to remove the diff and K-member and drop it out the bottom.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Can anyone get the exact size of that bolt that holds the cam gears on the back of the head? I think it is 35 or 36mm. I won't be able to work on it for a couple weeks as we move but I want to get the right tool for it. If it does not work I will need to line up dropping the engine.

Thanks guys.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Bump for the size of the nut that is the spindle for the drive gears off of the cam. I still need to order the wrench so I can custom bend it and try to torque that puppy off. It should be either 35 or 36mm. If I get these heads off it is a victory for every V10 TDI in the future that is going to need to do cam replacements. If they are anything like the 1.9L TDI (which they are almost exactly the same) there is going to be many many more cams getting replaced in the near future and I think this route is going to beat dropping the engine. I think if I had to do this again and I had all of the right tools and someone provided a reuild top end kit like they do for the 1.9L this could be done over a long weekend by little more than a 2 bannana mechanic.

I need all the help I can get on this one. If it is like I think and I can reach the turbos when the heads are off I will be deleting the cats and upgrading the turbos at the same time. Consider it a test bed for all of you out there that want a little more out of your VW V10.

On a side note I had to help a freind the other day get this started up. addicted56's Channel - YouTube
It had been sitting on an old farm for over 7 years and maybe longer. It took us 20 minutes just to chop the trees and weeds out of the way to start. Then we had to pull battery cables off of another car as thieves had cut them off for scrap metal. The engine was frozen but we pulled the injectors and sprayed some PB blaster in the cylinders. 20 minutes later we were able to break it free, cleared the cylinders and jumpstarted her. There is nothing like hearing an old IDI diesel start up after that long..that and it is always fun to see the huge plume of black smoke come out.
 
Nice work on getting that thing started!
 
Can anyone get the exact size of that bolt that holds the cam gears on the back of the head? I think it is 35 or 36mm. I won't be able to work on it for a couple weeks as we move but I want to get the right tool for it. If it does not work I will need to line up dropping the engine.

Thanks guys.

call a VW mechanic ... have them look on line in their manual ...
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Well we are finally moved and MOSTLY moved in. Back to the project. I've been speaking with V10FUN on here and yesterday he got me the right size for the spindle I need to take out for the cam. I ordered some tools that should help me get it out today and I should have them before next weekend.

As noted there are two oil cooler lines that go DIRECTLY over the spindle. And most amazingly it is held on by a nut on the back side so it takes two hands to get it apart. We will see what miracle I can work here. But pending I can get by those it looks like I SHOULD be able to get that spindle out.

My reccomendation...take the engine out. But I'm already this far so we will see what I can do.

I'll have more next weekend.
 
My reccomendation...take the engine out. But I'm already this far so we will see what I can do.
I can't help but admire your resilience in the face of adversity and bloody-minded determination!
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
I HATE this engine!!!!!!

I need to e-mail all of the photos I took with my phone and will post them. Looks like I will be dropping the engine. I won't go into depth but there is a small 5mm hex bolt that is upside down on the back of the block. It connects thru the block to the head.

Never heard of it myself either. It has no structural integrity, yet it is there.Does not hold any brackets, yet it is there. And it appears it is not able to be removed without removing the transmission.

I HATE VW!!!! WHY WOULD THEY DO THIS.

EDIT:
Picture via V10FUN...thanks for the pic. I would have never known it was there (and didn't until I tried to take off the head and the back side would not let lose.) It is that greenish looking one on the bottom right of the photo (the shiny parts are what I beleive where the transmission bellhousing was attached.)
Auto part Fuel line Engine Automotive engine part Carburetor
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
I needed a little extra torque.
Auto part Vehicle Car Engine Automotive exterior


This is the hood a little higher and out of the way. Found out my drivers side shock was not working when I released the passengers side and it fell on my head!!!
Vehicle Car Engine Auto part Hood


Besided the extra leverage never used the long wrench. The 1/2" drive 36mm open end worked great.
Bumper Automotive exterior Vehicle door Auto part Hood


Here is the 36mm bolt that allows the two gears to move as they expand at different rates.
Auto part Engine Automotive engine part Vehicle

Here is the unique water pump housings. They help equalize water temps thru both heads utilizing the one pump and housing. Actually came out very easy.
Blue Water Electric blue Auto part Pipe


Good news of the day...I reached a new record on my MPG with our MB 08 E320 Bluetech diesel. My best before was 38.5 MPG. Today with the cold weather and no need for AC I bested 41.1. It is extremely accurate and has always been right on with my calculations after fill up. I should have just bought my wife a GL450 for twice as much and called it a day.
Speedometer Measuring instrument Auto part Car Vehicle
 
keep the faith! sucks that you got this far and still need to drop the engine :(
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Thank you for the information. That is invaluable. Funny that it doesn't mention that small hex bolt.

I'm going to do some more contemplating and fiddling today but I think it might be headed to a mechanic that has dropped a few of these engines already.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Well the Touareg left for a shop yesterday. Starting a new job and finishing progression for the UH-60 I won't have time to do it myself even though I have access to a two post lift and shop.

It is two hours away but I'm hoping I can at least come "help" or view it a few times along the way. I know it is not the business of most shops and it is a liability but I love working on my own cars and know what is going on.

I still have yet to find someone to rebuild our turbos in country. I'm not willing to pay 2200 for a hybrid out of country. I guess after talking to Blosche turbo the problem is they are legally not allowed to touch the Variable Vane Turbos becuase of their contract with Garrett. That and they don't have the equipment. Now if someone knows if ours are not variabule guide vane type and have another type of internal regulator they can actually do them even though they are electronically controlled.

Ohh and I did purchase that CHEAP owners manual as suggested by someone else. The thing is AWESOME and I no longer have to ask our freind from Queensland to send me repair manual specifications and instruction sheets.
 
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