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Discussion Starter #1
Another fault on my V10-
work done: replaced both batteries, changed front air-springs (both sides).

After the car came back from the mechanic, drove fine the first day; did not drive for two days. On the third day, pre-start voltage was 12.7V and the "Fault Running Gear" returned.
While driving, sudden loss of power, connected vag-com, both turbo controllers were showing fault 18360 and 18361 (at addresses 1 and 11). Cleared faults, ran fine but after some time, faults returned. Three times. Came home, parked.

Note: mechanic said he removed the *front* battery first. Told him he should have done the rear but he showed me relevant info in ELSA which said to remove rear first.

Detailed inspection reveals
1. Mechanic (at dealership no less!) managed to remove front right air-spring without taking out wiper arms. As a result:
2. ECU was sitting very lose (one rubber holder on left side missing) and all the wiring was also sitting lose (not in it's clips, the big sockets were lose too).
3. Some other fault codes, many are "normal"--i.e. due to known issues like the door handle buttons being faulty and rear parking aid sensor wiring knocked out (due to reversing in a lamp post), no TV tuner but some are suspicious. Copy-paste of the fault codes below (sorry for not posting auto-scan as still using third-party cable with registered Ross-Tech VCDS-Lite).

FAULTS FROM TURBO CHARGER CONTROL UNIT (can be cleared but return while driving, rather often)
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Sunday, 07 February 2016, 14:04:31:6918
Control Module Part Number: 070 906 016 AA
Component and/or Version: V10 5,0L EDCG000AGM?5358
Software Coding: 0010575
Work Shop Code: WSC 31414
VCID: 4FD1EB399EC5
1 Fault Found:
18360 - Turbocharger Control Module 1: Defective
P1952 - 000 - -


VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Sunday, 07 February 2016, 14:05:02:6918
Control Module Part Number: 070 906 016 AA
Component and/or Version: V10 5,0L EDCG000AGS?5358
Software Coding: 0010575
Work Shop Code: WSC 31414
VCID: 4FD1EB399EC5
1 Fault Found:
18361 - Turbocharger Control Module 2: Defective
P1953 - 000 - -


OTHER FAULTS (before clearing)
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Sunday, 07 February 2016, 12:39:30:6918
Control Module Part Number: 7L0 959 933 E
Component and/or Version: 1E HSG 0201
Software Coding: 0000081
Work Shop Code: WSC 00367
VCID: 3E0FA6FD296F
Additional Info: 7L0959701B Tuersteuergeraet FS 0201 7L0959702B Tuersteuergeraet BF 0201
Additional Info: 7L0959703B Tuersteuergeraet HL 0201 7L0959704B Tuersteuergeraet HR 02017L0907719 Neigun7L6951171 A Innenraumsensor 0019
6 Faults Found:
00927 - Terminal 30 (Right)
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
01516 - Terminal 30; Left
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
00926 - Terminal 30
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
00485 - Drivers Outside Door Handle Central Locking Button (E369)
007 - Short to Ground
00486 - Front Passengers Outside Door Handle Central Locking Button (E370)
007 - Short to Ground

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Sunday, 07 February 2016, 12:42:01:6918
Control Module Part Number: 7L6 907 553 B
Component and/or Version: LUFTFDR.-CDC- 3C1P1 3650
Software Coding: 0015520
Work Shop Code: WSC 03885
VCID: 3803B0E50B4B
2 Faults Found:
01437 - Control Position not Learned
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
01770 - Temperature Sensor for Level Control Pump/Compressor (G290)
010 - Open or Short to Plus

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Sunday, 07 February 2016, 12:44:28:6918
Control Module Part Number: 7L6 920 880 N
Component and/or Version: KOMBIINSTRUMENT RB4 2935
Software Coding: 0007111
Work Shop Code: WSC 00367
VCID: 42F7D20D5D97
Combiinstrument RB4
1 Fault Found:
00457 - Control Module for Network (J519)
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Sunday, 07 February 2016, 12:45:22:6918
Control Module Part Number: 3D0 909 135 L
Component and/or Version: Kessy 6400
Software Coding: 0147688
Work Shop Code: WSC 31414
VCID: 2E2F96BDF90F
Additional Info: XXXXXXXXXXX ELV XXXX
Additional Info: Geraet 00000

Kessy
2 Faults Found:
00003 - Control Module
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit
00457 - Control Module for Network (J519)

CAN Gateway
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Sunday, 07 February 2016, 12:47:20:6918
Control Module Part Number: 6N0 909 901
Component and/or Version: Gateway K<>CAN 0101
Software Coding: 0000006
Work Shop Code: WSC 00321
VCID: F093C8C5A3BB
1 Fault Found:
00467 - TV Tuner (R78)
004 - No Signal/Communication

HVAC
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Sunday, 07 February 2016, 12:50:37:6918
Control Module Part Number: 7L6 907 040 D
Component and/or Version: CLIMAtronic R/L X 2714
Software Coding: 0001020
Work Shop Code: WSC 31414
VCID: 31158DC1E831
2 Faults Found:
02193 - Supply Voltage for Regulator for Fresh Air Blower
010 - Open or Short to Plus
01592 - Air Quality Sensor (G238)
014 - Defective

Sound System
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Sunday, 07 February 2016, 12:51:51:6918
Control Module Part Number: 7L6 035 466
Component and/or Version: 12K-AUDIOVERST 0108
Software Coding: 0000000
Work Shop Code: WSC 00000
VCID: F195CDC1A8B1
1 Fault Found:
00422 - Right Rear DSP Midrange Speaker (R106)
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent

Park Assist
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Sunday, 07 February 2016, 12:52:21:6918
Control Module Part Number: 7L0 919 283 E
Component and/or Version: 0D Einparkhilfe 0907
Software Coding: 0000000
Work Shop Code: WSC 00000
VCID: 3803B0E50B4B
3 Faults Found:
01545 - Sensor for Parking Aid; Rear Left (G203)
009 - Open or Short to Ground
01547 - Sensor for Parking Aid; Rear Mid-Right (G205)
006 - Short to Plus - Intermittent
00437 - Right Rear Inner Parking Aid Sensor (G335)
006 - Short to Plus

Other information which might help:
1. With old batteries, if the voltage dipped below 12.5, turbocharger control module #2 fault (at address line 11) would come but once cleared, would not return if battery didn't dip below 12.5, and certainly not while driving.

2. The chances of control modules being faulty are slim as they worked fine before and always both suddenly fail.

3. I was suspecting lose connection in ECU as it's all lying lose under the plenum cover but only right-hand side (master) ECU is like this, so the fault should only come for controller #1, not #2 as well simultaneously.

4. Air suspension "Control Position Not Learnt" fault went away after changing batteries and struts and calibrating but came back on third day (didn't drive for two days). I didn't calibrate with VCDS but raised to max and lowered to min levels and drove for a while, fault didn't go away. Makes me think of a lose battery/ electric supply connection than anything else as suspension works fine and raises and lowers perfectly.

5. The terminal 30 warnings (and the fact mechanic removed front battery first) makes me suspicious also.

Will ask him to fix all the silly ECU stuff he's done and also check all fuses and connections (esp. battery connection under the seat and associated fuses, relays, etc.). Also will ask him to grease the turbo link rods and check them with the car running.

Any suggestion: both (educated) guesses and personal experience would me much appreciated.
 

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Has this guy ever seen a v10 Touareg?
 

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Had something similar on my V10,i tried everything,all relevant fuses,checked the wiring diagrams etc. With you saying that the ECU was loose,check the two earth points on the bulkhead behind the ECU,this was the problem on mine. If the mechanic has been interfering around that area its a definite possiblilty. I loosened the earth points on mine when i was changing the suspension top mounts,i removed the wiper motor and forgot about the earth points.
 

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What about battery drain? If faulty door switches report a door unlocked, the Kessy will not go niteynite. Faulty Kessy is also common on 2004.
Bentley clearly states 2004 battery dis order is front, rear. Reconnect rear, front.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Three other V10s in townapparently happy with service at this place.

Earth points worth considering indeed, thanks.

You think battery drain could affect even when car's being driven? Initially I thought so but not while being driven?
 

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You said everything was good til you let it sit for two days. Your two shorted door handles could certainly be at fault.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Trouble continues:
1. I got a C-TECH 4.3 charger. Plug into car each night. Starts from step 3 to 7 in about 3 hours, but after restart back to 3 (half an hour before goingto step 4).
2. Turbocharger control module fault (module 2 most often but sometimes together with module 1).
Happens: a) everytime I start the car after letting it sit for more than 30 minutes (but goes away if I stop-start or start within 10-15 minutes after stopping)
B) most of the times when I've cleared it and had no fault while driving, reappears after I stop, cut ff engine.
C) last night, hooked to charge maintainer, step 7, VCDS, cleared fault, checked all other modules (Ctech down to level 3, voltage 13.5 on meter in instrument panel), came back to Engine 2 and fault was there. Cleared, exited, returned, fault was back over and over.
D) rarely during driving in city, not yet on highway.

I believe its an electric fault. Any ideas? What more to check?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update on turbo problem. Solved!
Problem--broken ECU mounting brackets
Solution--ECU 1 had only one side mounting missing--replaced with a bendy strip of metal with notches cut in the middle: holds ECU in place.
ECU 2 was harder: it is mounted vertically down the plenum chamber and both side mountings were missing. Crafty use of RTV silicon solved the problem. The first time, a thin layer on left side of the ECU between the mount and the ECU: worked except on the nastiest bumps; second time: applied between plenum wall and ECU wiring socket: disaster. Cut that dollop of silicon out, found out mounting bracket itself is lose, couldn't tighten without taking wiper and a number of other things apart so applied silicon between the mounting bracket and the plenum wall and went for a drive 30 minutes later for silicon to retain some flexibility. Worked. Went off-roading, on the way out, no problem, on the way back: slightly faster over nasty bumps, turbo cut out once but after resetting did not cut out again.

Waiting for mountings to be delivered to solve the problem entirely.

Question what happens to the ECU when the car goes over bumps? As far as I know, the ECU is solid-state (has no moving parts). Does the wiring (socket) lose connection? looking at the socket, I'd doubt that very much: the way it is constructed, fitted and locked, one would not expect anything to go wrong yet when I silicon-ed the socket to the plenum wall, perhaps due to vibrations, it'd often cut out, sometimes on start-up (possibly due to engine vibrations at start).

Thanks for all your answers and hope this may not happen to anyone (dealership breaking ECU mountings)
 

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2005 mk1 Touareg V10 tdi in black
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* PLEASE READ *

Hello all,

I have a 2005 Touareg V10 tdi with the AYH engine. It has developed the dreaded turbo issue at speed under load on an incline when warmed up. Bank 2 turbo actuator is tripping code 18361 P1953 - Turbocharger Control Module 2: Defective

Am writing this as the Ross-Tech page for the above code doesn't mention my finding as a possible cause/solution.

My intake plenums are really clogged and am in the process of cleaning them. If the intake is filthy then the pcv, egr, and turbo and their pipes will be too.

I have 'temporarily" disconnected the crankcase breather tubes that go from the valve covers upwards to the pcv and have left everything else alone for now. Long story short, the power is amazing!

No more issues with turbo cutting out and no bank 2 fault code in the week of daily driving since.

If you have this fault code or similar symptoms it might be worth checking/cleaning/replacing your PCVs before pulling the turbo or actuator.

Phil
 

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I had these P1953 and P1952 codes on my 2006 Touareg V10 shortly after I purchased it in 2014. A bit of research and I traced the faults to the electronic actuators on respective turbos.

What was disheartening was that, online, owners reported subsequent failures after the turbo(s) were replaced. Once you experience the failure, there's a likelihood that you'll get it again and with greater frequency. At first it's not distracting because you can reset the system by cycling the key on-and-off. The only reason I dealt with it so long was that my 'egg was out of warranty and the cost to replace the turbos was more than $7000.

Eventually, I found what appears to be a permanent fix for this problem but it's time consuming and requires modification of the turbo actuators and replacing them. NOTE: Replacing them can be done without removing the engine ... doing so took me 10.5 hours under the car (still less than the 30+ quoted me by a dealer).

ALSO: A preventative measure (that works for me) is to find an experienced mechanic who can clean and lubricate the turbo actuator linkages periodically (in my case at 10K miles oil changes). Since I replaced the actuators in 2016, I have only experienced a turbo failure once and that was when an oil change was coming due.

Good Luck!
 

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Hi Surfcitymike,

Thanks for your post and the info.

I've been trying everything I can think of (cleaning intake manifold, intake valves, egr and asv), checking for vacuum/ boost leaks) in the hope that it's not the actuator as the computer tells me.

Have pretty much resigned myself that my initial findings and subsequent efforts haven't completely resolved the issue and the turbo actuator will need to be pulled and repaired.

There is a website advertising repair of the actuator unit (guessing circuit board fault) but require the vehicle for daily use.

Managed to buy a spare actuator from Ebay so the plan is to fit the spare while the original is being brought back to life.

Do you know if the spare will need coding to the vehicle before it will work? Am guessing so as pretty much everything else would need coding when replaced. Just hoping for a little good news.

Also if it does require coding and I keep the original one as a working spare (when repaired) will I have to code the ECU again if the original is to go back in?

Phil
 

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Having re-read this entire have realised that the ECU brackets/wiring may be at fault.

My Treg is a 2005 with 98,000 miles.

It too has two kessy faults (both driver side doors) AND the bank 2 turbo actuator fault only rears its ugly head when the engine is at full temperature, just like lmuhagh describes. When it's cold the power is awesome. When it gets warm, gives off the impression that it's being choked. Hence me having the joy of removing the carbon from bank 2's intake system.

Guess I'm going rooting for the ECU 's next.

If that doesn't solve the issue the its actuator removal time. :-(
 

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A few things:

The computer tells you where to look although often a code is caused by an associated sensor or system. In my case, the turbos failures (18360/P1952, 18361/P1953) were obviously due to the turbo assembly failure (turbo, actuator, linkage) because I have not experienced problems after the actuator(s) was replaced. Sadly it took 12+ years to figure that out and it's still hard to find an electronic actuator separate from the turbocharger, or a part number for the actuator alone.

re: "There is a website advertising repair of the actuator unit (guessing circuit board fault)..."

Don't bother, my experience suggests that lubricating the parts is the most important step unless there is physical damage (look for a stripped worm gear). I looked at these companies myself in the beginning but customer reports of subsequent failures by "repaired" units suggest that there's nothing wrong with the parts that were replaced.

Personally, I suspect the electric motor is barely strong enough to manipulate the linkage and turbo vanes so the computer interprets this as a failure and defaults the engine into "limp-mode" rather than risking damage to the engine due to over- or under-boosting either side. -- I have observed a similar failure on electric garage door openers. When garage door springs are not maintained/tensioned correctly, the door becomes heavy. Without a computer to detect that the door is too heavy and stop the motor, the garage door opener strips the gears trying to open the door.

re: "Managed to buy a spare actuator from Ebay … "

Did you confirm the "G" number? It is my understanding that the electronic part is common (except for coding) but the "G" number is specific to the Touareg engine code. For my 2006, the actuator is marked "G-22" for the BWF engine code. I don't know what the "g" number is for the early years AYH engine code although I suspect it is "G-145".

re: "Do you know if the spare will need coding to the vehicle before it will work?" -- The coding is specific to the "g" number and the side/bank of the engine. As long as you match those, they do not need to be coded/recalibrated which is reportedly pre-setting the "range of motion" (end points).

Replacing the actuator without engine removal is tedious … If it works, I'd just leave it in place and keep your original as a spare (after servicing it), that's what I have done.

re: "It too has two kessy faults … AND the bank 2 turbo actuator fault only rears its ugly head when the engine is at full temperature…"

Yeah, the KESSY is troublesome (e.g., I live with my door lock faults). The turbo actuator failure when warm is common … That's why I think a weak electronic actuator motor is the problem, the electronics were not designed for the heat and being next to the hot exhaust in a confined area doesn't help. FYI, I tried to find a more powerful electric motor that might fit into the electronic actuator but no joy (couldn't find one, only replace in kind).

Finally, the carbon deposits in the intakes are a PITA, I've removed and cleaned my flapper valves and EGR valves twice in 50K miles; however, the carbon deposits don't seem to have an impact on whether the turbo controllers fail, only difference for me has been barely detectable drawdown in power.

Swapping the actuator will likely solve your problem; however, if the problem persists, definitely check your turbocharger linkages (missing c-clip), electrical connections (poor splice, shorting out) and mounting brackets (not loose) before going for turbocharger replacement.

Good luck.
 

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A few things:

The computer tells you where to look although often a code is caused by an associated sensor or system. In my case, the turbos failures (18360/P1952, 18361/P1953) were obviously due to the turbo assembly failure (turbo, actuator, linkage) because I have not experienced problems after the actuator(s) was replaced. Sadly it took 12+ years to figure that out and it's still hard to find an electronic actuator separate from the turbocharger, or a part number for the actuator alone.

re: "There is a website advertising repair of the actuator unit (guessing circuit board fault)..."

Don't bother, my experience suggests that lubricating the parts is the most important step unless there is physical damage (look for a stripped worm gear). I looked at these companies myself in the beginning but customer reports of subsequent failures by "repaired" units suggest that there's nothing wrong with the parts that were replaced.

Personally, I suspect the electric motor is barely strong enough to manipulate the linkage and turbo vanes so the computer interprets this as a failure and defaults the engine into "limp-mode" rather than risking damage to the engine due to over- or under-boosting either side. -- I have observed a similar failure on electric garage door openers. When garage door springs are not maintained/tensioned correctly, the door becomes heavy. Without a computer to detect that the door is too heavy and stop the motor, the garage door opener strips the gears trying to open the door.

re: "Managed to buy a spare actuator from Ebay … "

Did you confirm the "G" number? It is my understanding that the electronic part is common (except for coding) but the "G" number is specific to the Touareg engine code. For my 2006, the actuator is marked "G-22" for the BWF engine code. I don't know what the "g" number is for the early years AYH engine code although I suspect it is "G-145".

re: "Do you know if the spare will need coding to the vehicle before it will work?" -- The coding is specific to the "g" number and the side/bank of the engine. As long as you match those, they do not need to be coded/recalibrated which is reportedly pre-setting the "range of motion" (end points).

Replacing the actuator without engine removal is tedious … If it works, I'd just leave it in place and keep your original as a spare (after servicing it), that's what I have done.

re: "It too has two kessy faults … AND the bank 2 turbo actuator fault only rears its ugly head when the engine is at full temperature…"

Yeah, the KESSY is troublesome (e.g., I live with my door lock faults). The turbo actuator failure when warm is common … That's why I think a weak electronic actuator motor is the problem, the electronics were not designed for the heat and being next to the hot exhaust in a confined area doesn't help. FYI, I tried to find a more powerful electric motor that might fit into the electronic actuator but no joy (couldn't find one, only replace in kind).

Finally, the carbon deposits in the intakes are a PITA, I've removed and cleaned my flapper valves and EGR valves twice in 50K miles; however, the carbon deposits don't seem to have an impact on whether the turbo controllers fail, only difference for me has been barely detectable drawdown in power.

Swapping the actuator will likely solve your problem; however, if the problem persists, definitely check your turbocharger linkages (missing c-clip), electrical connections (poor splice, shorting out) and mounting brackets (not loose) before going for turbocharger replacement.

Good luck.
I have a similar problem, going in to limp but only when towing and after about 2 hours at first i thought it was heat related but if i cycle the ignition without even stopping the car i can continue for about another hour before it happens again or sometimes it doesn't happen for the rest of the journey . strangely it never happens on the return trip, i think it is a overboost problem and i'm wondering if the boost parameters can be slightly increased so as not to interfere with normal driving (towing). I have done the intake clean, actuator lube, etc.
 

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Hi Surfcitymike,

Thanks for taking the time to respond to all those points. Didn't know about the G number. May have got lucky though as got one for the same engine code.

I get what you're saying about the goo in the intake not making much difference to noticable performance. Am thinking that the intake is the car equivalent to our bronchial tubes. I dont want any gunk lining my lungs nor doI want any upstream of the combustion chamber.

When I first looked into the ASV I couldn't see past the egr valve with my boroscope. It was truly clogged.

Mixing hot exhaust gases with ccv vapour is just asking for trouble in the long term as it will eventually shut down the engine's ability to breathe.

I managed to get to the bottom of the turbo actuator fault code. Turns out it was the anti shudder valve seized open. So when the computer told the ASVs to flap only bank 1 did as it was told. Creating the opposite of a collapsed lung of sorts. Two lungs breathing at different rates can't be good.

The extra air must have created an over boost condition which was interpreted as the actuator.

Long story short have freed up the ASV mechanism and now have full power. The downside is now have to fix a new problem with the air suspension. Lol
 

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Fixed the air ride level and replaced a dead ASV. But the limp mode is still with me. Its not as frequent but not completely gone.

Does anyone have a picture of the ECU 2 in its home please?
 

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This limp thing is strange, i was towing the other day for about 2 hours when i caught up to a truck i waited for a over taking lane when i went to pass it it went in to limp, i cycled the IGN caught the truck back up and passed it with no more problems for the rest of the trip and all the way home
 

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Vaughan,

I second that.

Think ECU 2 is loose based on other posts. Just can't see the damn thing lol
 
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