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so I have a 80 millamp draw while the v-10 is shut down at night and am wondering if this is too much of a draw for the batteries?
V10 Battery Information
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Personally, for what they cost (but not VW dealer prices!), I would always change both at the same time anyway.
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So now 2 or so years on the front battery is dying again? thankfully the self jump start system works. if the $440 battery only last 2 years, maybe a cheaper battery is better value?
what I can't get my head around is if the rear battery is the starter how come when the front battery is flat the engine won't crank over?
I fitted a C-Tek battery monitor to the front battery starting at 40% charge, the jump large volt ups are when I put an external charger on.
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As I understand it the front ancillaries battery helps the rear starting battery start the car by operating several of the start functions.
When the starting battery is dead the ancillary battery shuts down a number of the ancillary functions so it can start the car on its own.
Reading your post seems to indicate if the front battery is kaput the rear battery can't do the job on its own.
Regardless of what I think, it's all explained in the VW Touareg Self Study Programme 298.
When the starting battery is dead the ancillary battery shuts down a number of the ancillary functions so it can start the car on its own.
Reading your post seems to indicate if the front battery is kaput the rear battery can't do the job on its own.
Regardless of what I think, it's all explained in the VW Touareg Self Study Programme 298.
Old thread, but probably still useful for some. Replaced both batteries in V10 about 5 years ago. When I took out the battery under passenger seat, the bucket where it sits in was half full of battery acid! Now I regularly check voltage - front battery via terminals under bonnet. Question: back battery 12.9 V with engine off, 13.7 with engine running. Front 12.13/13.12. Any comments as to front battery replacement? Drag, I would especially appreciate your comments. And please no comments from anyone in replacing one or both batteries - that has been covered extensively on the forum. Cheers, Werner
The 12.13 is showing the battery is reaching the end. The gold standard is a replacement.
If you have a battery minder and about a week, you could put it on the desulfation mode and see if you regain capacity. I do this when I have the time. It is very gentle on the battery.
If the front is a flooded cell and you have a CTEK, you could try the recondition mode. CTEK is the gold standard of battery chargers.
If you have a battery minder and about a week, you could put it on the desulfation mode and see if you regain capacity. I do this when I have the time. It is very gentle on the battery.
If the front is a flooded cell and you have a CTEK, you could try the recondition mode. CTEK is the gold standard of battery chargers.
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Hi Werner
Love conversations about V10's interesting stuff with the smart twin battery setup but not sure what your question is.
As a some what related comment know a R50 that was having low charging issues that had the alternator drive pulley changed18 months ago.
Turned out to be the cable from the alternator to the jump start connections under the bonnet couldn't carry the current needed any more.
regards
Drag
I read it as a 5 year old front battery that has a resting voltage of 12.13. The rear battery is being charged from the same alternator and has a resting voltage of 12.9 volts.
The rear battery is being fully charged, so I doubt we have an alternator charging problem.
There is the small possibility that there is a high resistance connection somewhere between where the wiring splits from the front and rear battery. In that case, we only really have the small amount of wiring from the distribution block under the front seat to the positive side of the battery and the small amount of wiring that is specific to the negative battery cable.
Since wannabe stated that the original front battery tray got flooded with acid, there is a fair chance that the battery cable and the battery terminals inside the battery box could be damaged.
Still, change front battery. At 5 years old, it is due. Also, inspect those battery cables and look for any signs of damage. If they pass visual, put the vehicle back in service.
If problems continue, change both the positive and negative cable that go inside that front battery box.
The rear battery is being fully charged, so I doubt we have an alternator charging problem.
There is the small possibility that there is a high resistance connection somewhere between where the wiring splits from the front and rear battery. In that case, we only really have the small amount of wiring from the distribution block under the front seat to the positive side of the battery and the small amount of wiring that is specific to the negative battery cable.
Since wannabe stated that the original front battery tray got flooded with acid, there is a fair chance that the battery cable and the battery terminals inside the battery box could be damaged.
Still, change front battery. At 5 years old, it is due. Also, inspect those battery cables and look for any signs of damage. If they pass visual, put the vehicle back in service.
If problems continue, change both the positive and negative cable that go inside that front battery box.
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Hi folks, I have read this tonight and it’s an interesting read. My R50 sits idle for many weeks at a time between starts and last week we were heading off with the caravan down south. So it had sat two weeks prior with no running prior but opened the tailgate periodically in between leading to minor power consumption. Then just before going away I had 3 short trips to do so 3 starts with no charge up opportunity in between. On the 4th start up it failed to start, not a surprise in retrospect.
I tried the turn key anticlockwise and not a cracker. So I thought both batteries dead. Multimeter checked the terminals under bonnet - 11.4V.
So, I had to race around and got some jumper leads, Blood Pressure was going high, SWMBO was looking over saying “I told you so, this R50 will be trouble”!!!
Anyway, I got the jumpers and the Golf jump started it straight away. Phew.
My question is this. Are the two clip on terminals for jump starting under the bonnet (hood) connected to the front (under seat battery) or rear battery? If a battery charger is left connected to these terminals will it eventually charge both or one (which one) battery?
I will get the car down to Battery World to put the CCA tester on each battery directly to confirm health condition of each battery. When I bought the car ~10 months ago, I asked the dealer to check true battery health and they replaced one battery (under seat battery I recall) but now I am not so sure what they did.
Pete.
I tried the turn key anticlockwise and not a cracker. So I thought both batteries dead. Multimeter checked the terminals under bonnet - 11.4V.
So, I had to race around and got some jumper leads, Blood Pressure was going high, SWMBO was looking over saying “I told you so, this R50 will be trouble”!!!
Anyway, I got the jumpers and the Golf jump started it straight away. Phew.
My question is this. Are the two clip on terminals for jump starting under the bonnet (hood) connected to the front (under seat battery) or rear battery? If a battery charger is left connected to these terminals will it eventually charge both or one (which one) battery?
I will get the car down to Battery World to put the CCA tester on each battery directly to confirm health condition of each battery. When I bought the car ~10 months ago, I asked the dealer to check true battery health and they replaced one battery (under seat battery I recall) but now I am not so sure what they did.
Pete.
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Is it normal to need a new front battery (aux) in 2 and 1/2 years and 50,000 miles ?
I ask this as my keyless entry has stopped working and at an idle upon starting if i have my cabin lights on they sorta pulse and when i rev up the rpms the lights get brighter ?
I ask this as my keyless entry has stopped working and at an idle upon starting if i have my cabin lights on they sorta pulse and when i rev up the rpms the lights get brighter ?
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579 Posts
Can someone tell me the location of the generator wire under the seat? I need to isolate and test it to see if it is causing any drain on the battery.
Try to find TSB 27 07 11 October 2, 2007 2016076 on testing for ”Excessive Static Current Draw”
it warns against disconnecting battery, battery cables or fuses. They want you to use a current clamp on the negative battery cable. Also it says to measure sleep state current “after vehicle is left untouched for TWO HOURS.” Keep clear of all door handles to avoid wakeup message. And of course you must lock the doors after closing them. Then wait two hours. Nominal sleep current is 40 mA.
it warns against disconnecting battery, battery cables or fuses. They want you to use a current clamp on the negative battery cable. Also it says to measure sleep state current “after vehicle is left untouched for TWO HOURS.” Keep clear of all door handles to avoid wakeup message. And of course you must lock the doors after closing them. Then wait two hours. Nominal sleep current is 40 mA.
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Thanks, but I already know this stuff. I want to test the draw from the generator, if it is at all the culprit. I want to eliminate it from the equation by testing it after the system is asleep 😴. I am not getting any electrical fault codes like the ever dreaded handle antenna issue, except one below. So, hence my request about the generator charging wire under the seat.
01117 - Generator Terminal DF Load Signal
008 - Implausible Signal
01117 - Generator Terminal DF Load Signal
008 - Implausible Signal
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