Based on the lack of answers I have to assume that either nobody tried aftermarket fluids, or everybody who did that died in a horrible accident because of the aftermarket fluids, and is thus unable to tell me/us about his experience with them anymore. JK

Anyway, I'm going to bite the bullet and go with an all-aftermarket fluid change for the transmission, for the transfer case and also both differentials. So, if you won't hear from me anymore, you know that the same thing happened to me than to everyone else who tried the aftermarket stuff.

These will be the fluids I will be using:

Transmission: Mobil 1 ATF 3309 - meeting or exceeding G 055 025 A2 specs, according to manufacturer's datasheet
Transfer case: Ravenol Transfer Fluid TF-0870 - meeting or exceeding G 055 515 A2 specs, according to manufacturer's datasheet
Differentials: Fuchs Titan Sintopoid SAE 75W90 - meeting or exceeding G 052 145 A2 specs, according to manufacturer's datasheet

Dealer wanted ~$1000 for these fluids, but with the aftermarket alternatives I can get supposedly the same stuff for around $300 or less.

If anyone's interested I've also enquired at Liqui Moly whether their LM 4433/4434 "High Performance Gear Oil GL4+ SAE 75W-90" meets the "G 052 145 A2" specs - despite being not listed as such on the product's data sheet -, and they told me that it indeed does meet it. So, theoretically that fluid is also officially confirmed to be appropriate - but I've already ordered the Fuchs oil by the time they got back to me with this information, so, that's why I went with that anyway.

Anyway, if my car blows up because of the aftermarket fluids, it was nice meeting and knowing ya all....

PS: One more thing I want to leave here for clarification is, because there seems to be a lot of confusion about it in similar threads here, that the OEM VW lubricants "G 052 145 A1" and "G 052 145 A2" do not seem to be different specs oils and one superseding the other, just different bottles of the same product. The one with "A2" ending is a 1.0 liter / 33.81 oz bottle, and the "A1" is a 0.5 liter / 16.9 oz bottle. There's also a variant of this fluid with the "S2" suffix, which is a 1 liter bottle (and there does not seem to be a 0.5 liter bottle with an "S1" suffix), but it's doubtful that even that would be really different from the fluids in the "A1" and "A2" suffixed bottles, because aftermarket fluids that are supposedly substitutes for the "A1"/"A2" specs are also listed as substitutes for the "S2" variant. So, there's either no difference, or the "S2" formulation is backwards compatible with the A1/A2 specs.

PS2: The Mobil 1 ATF 3309 bottle exactly matches in shape and form the original VW "G 055 025 A2" bottle, which only differs in color of the bottle and the cup - which makes me think that the VW OEM fluid with this numbers is actually the Mobil fluid. The Febi 32590 bottle also looks almost identical to the original VW "G 052 145 A2" bottle, which also makes me think that the VW OEM fluid with this number is actually febi's product. Just my two cents.

 

IMHO, who cares if the OEM fluids are expensive? Thing about how long until you do this again! Do you really care about the cost difference if you're going to do it again in 5-10 years? (especially since you went 200k without changing). I would strictly advise against using anything but OEM in your trans especially at your milage...... I used to have a Dodge RAM, and I did something similar to what you're talking about.... I serviced everything at a high odometer reading with the best ROYAL PURPLE & RED LINE synthetics I could buy..... I immediately started having transmission issues and ended up dumping $$$ worth of new fluid and putting OEM crap back in it.... then I drove it for another 10 years without any other issues.

Given that the Touareg transmission is so much more advanced, I would not deviate from the OEM fluid in it at all based on the info you've provided.

Just my opinion.

 

Well, this is exactly the thing / here is my thinking:

For one, I do not plant to keep this vehicle for another 10 years - so, I will not get my return on any really long term investment. Even if I would keep it, I would regularly replace these fluids, so they wouldn't have to last another 125.000 miles or so. In reality I only drive the car around 3000 miles a year - so, I will be probably putting another 10.000 miles in total into it max. before I get rid of it. Maybe even less.

And the other thing is: just because the car is getting 11 years old this year, anything and everything can break in it, even "on its own". And if it does, again, I see no benefit in having the very expensive OEM fluids in it while this is happening. Also, even if it happens to some related component down the road, nobody will be able to tell it was because of the fluid anyway. At least I don't think that when you're using these high quality fluids you could really see a failure in such a short time and/or in such a violent manner that it could be directly linked to the fluid change as the sole reason for it.

That said I've researched this topic extensively now, and based on what I've read, I do not expect anything to break here obviously. Of course I've read some horror stories about transmission fluid changes at high mileage going very wrong, but I believe these to be the result of people having used the wrong fluids (meaning not only aftermarket ones, but of totally wrong specs) and/or not following proper procedures, and not because of the high mileage fluid change per se. Also, if this high-mileage-fluid-flush-breaks-the-transmission thing happens to me, it will happen also with OEM fluids, and it will be the more a waste of money if I will/would have used those instead of the affordable, but still very high quality aftermarket fluids.

And again, we're talking about a ~$700 difference here in cost, which I think is a lot for a simple fluid change, and for which (and some) you can get a full transmission from a break.


Then again, we'll see. But honestly, with fluids that are claimed by their manufacturers to meet OEM specs, and appear to be in some cases actually be the very same products that the dealership sells you, just with a different sticker label on them and for 3x the price.... I will be very surprised if there will be anything going wrong, because of these fluids.

 

Sure... but if it was me, and I used it that little, and planned on not keeping it for a long time, I wouldn't even bother.... You will not get a return on your investment, even if you use aftermarket fluids.... if your gear is on it's last legs are is ready to bust anyways, I very much doubt that fresh fluids will "save it" over the next 10k or whatever.

I say drive it for a few more years without touching it....

 

Sure... but if it was me, and I used it that little, and planned on not keeping it for a long time, I wouldn't even bother.... You will not get a return on your investment, even if you use aftermarket fluids.... if your gear is on it's last legs are is ready to bust anyways, I very much doubt that fresh fluids will "save it" over the next 10k or whatever.

Following that logic I might also avoid changing regular engine oil in it, because as long as the engine doesn't seize, I will not get my return on investment. Will I?

I'm not doing this to "repair" the car or the transmission, but as part of the regular and preventive maintenance. Which, as it says, is done to prevent problems down the road, and which you don't know exactly when or whether will hit you - but the more you put the maintenance procedure off, the higher risk you're running to actually encounter them, with no (or very expensive) recourse.

Anyway, as said, I don't think damaging the transmission with these fluids and the change per se is an actually something I have to expect realistically, or any more, than the "breakage" of any part of the car at any time. On the other side: keeping to drive the car with 10 year old fluids with 125.000 miles in them is definitely not a lesser risk to its health either.

We'll see.

Was nice to know you all!

 

I always used to say stick with OEM [and still do for the 850 ml bottle needed for the transfer box] but one of the highly experienced Oz Treggers who actually fixes the cars for a living uses aftermarket fluids so, as long as the specs are correct, carry on.


Good point well made though on whether it's worth your while if the car isn't a long term/many miles keeper.

 

Sometimes I wonder about you Bruh.... but anyways.....
If you want to get all technical, nothing we do to a vehicle is an "investment"

If you want to do proper PM, use the OEM fluids..... there's a reason why a bunch of experts decided on those fluids and not the aftermarket ones you're looking at. If the dealer prices are not what you want to pay, then find another supplier. Technically, specs are specs, and if your alternate brands claim to meet them, and you TRUST that they do, then save yourself the coin (and us the aggravation of trying to reason with you) and go for it.

At the end of the day, I personally give ZERO FLUIDS about your POS and if it blows up today, tomorrow, or 10k miles from now.... trust me!
Don't ask for input or advise if you don't want any!

P.S. I still wouldn't touch the transmission.... just sayin!

 

If you want to get all technical, nothing we do to a vehicle is an "investment" If you want to do proper PM, use the OEM fluids..... there's a reason why a bunch of experts decided on those fluids .

Correct. But the fluids I'm using meet the OEM specs. That's the whole point. I'm not using just ANY aftermarket fluid, but those that were specifically designed to be exactly like those experts decided them to be. I'm just not buying them from VW.

VW does the same thing. VW does not manufacture any of these fluids. VW buys it from the very same vendors I'm buying them from. All he does on top of that is stocking them and "upcharging" up to 300% on them. Nothing more, nothing less.

Don't ask for input or advise if you don't want any!

For one I did not ask for theories and hearsays (because as said, I've been researching those myself extensively for weeks now), but for input from those who did actually use aftermarket fluids. Even that a week ago. I didn't get any. Now, I'm not so much looking for input anymore (albeit still welcome), because I've made the decision and actually already bought the stuff I will be using. I only wrote what I wrote for others to possibly learn and profit from - regardless of what the outcome will be.

That said I have no problem you voicing your opinion, regardless of admittedly having no actual experience in the field (with aftermarket fluids). I'm just presenting you with my very own (counter)arguments on what you think are arguments against using said fluids. Am I allowed to?

P.S. I still wouldn't touch the transmission.... just sayin!

Your objection is noted. Thank you.

 

Hi Everyone!

I've been reading up on this topic extensively for days now, but unfortunately didn't find any definitive answers. I'm planning on getting my transmission, transfer case, and (non-locking) rear and front differential fluids changed on my '08 2.5 with the 09D auto transmission. The original OEM fluids for these are:

Transmission fluid: G 055 025 A2
Transfer case fluid: G 055 515 A2
Differential fluids: G 052 145 A2 (supposedly superseded by G 052 145 S2)

My understanding is that the following replacement fluids meet the appropriate specs:

G 055 025 A2 (transm.) - Mobil 1 ATF 3309, Liqui Moly Top Tec ATF 1200, Febi ATF 29934 (1L) / 101161 (5L)
G 055 515 A2 (transfc.) - Ravenol Transfer Fluid TF-0870
G 052 145 A2 (diffs) - essentially all high quality 75W-90 gear oils with API GL-4+ certification, like RAVENOL VSG SAE 75W-90, Liqui Moly 4433 - High Performance Gear Oil GL4+ SAE 75W-90, Febi 32590 - SAE 75W-90 GL-5

However, I did not find any definitive info on how people who decided to go with these non-OEM fluids fared with them.

So, my question is: Did you use any of the above mentioned (or any other) alternative fluids, and what were your mid- or long-term experiences with them? Is it safe to use them instead of the insanely expensive OEM fluids? I'm not looking for a direct comparison between OEM or non-OEM fluids (even though if you have any info, it's welcome), but whether non-OEM fluids caused any noteworthy problems for you.

My car has 125.000 miles / 200.000 kms, and afaik none of these fluids have ever been changed in it. It does not seem to show any symptoms that could be directly related to these components (like wheels do not skip, transmission does not slip, not even in sub-zero temps) and am planning to replace the fluids only as a preventive measure.

Any information welcome, and thanks!

I recommend using OEM fluids for Transfer case and diffs. As far as trans. I used Fuchs 4400. It's safe and was installed by the dealer since it was too cold at the time of the change. I am changing it again as it's been in for about 40K miles for Fuchs 4400 or Motul Multi-ATF. Now, I hate when people state: "I have had no issues" when describing using a specific oil. There is more to it than that. You want to find the oil that matches VW spec oils or just use OEM because in all reality they are very good and not made by VW anyway. Most likely they are made by one of the choices you see here.

That said, no issues Filter is clean, pan is clean and oil is very clean. Even before switching to Fuchs 4400. I will change mine in 2 weeks. No real way of saying there is an issue unless I get it tested. But I am not planning on that as I find it a waste of money. These oils conform to factory spec. Shifting and so forth has been perfect. I suggest changing every 30-40K miles for longlife. Mine has 131K miles on it. But all fluids changed around 100K

Since this is an Aisin trans, both fuchs 4400 and Motul cover the specs for the trans. I would not hesitate using it.

Rear diff I recommend OEM first but go ahead and use : 145 A2 (diffs) - essentially all high quality 75W-90 gear oils with API GL-4+ certification, like, Liqui Moly 4433 - High Performance Gear Oil GL4+ SAE 75W-90, Febi 32590 - SAE 75W-90 GL-5

or Motul Gear 300 SL.

 

.

Thanks for the insight alfissimo! One more thing: What was your mileage when you changed the fluids first?

 

Almost 2 years ago now, I changed my front/rear diff fluids as well as my transfer box fluid. I did lots of research and ultimately used Royal Purple 75w90 gear oil for the diffs and OEM oil (part# G052145S2) for the transfer box. The Touareg had 125,000 km (~78,000 miles) on it at the time. Those fluids had not been changed before then.

I'm still driving the Touareg every day, and I've put 23,000 kms (~14,000 miles) on it since then. My mileage has been mostly city, but with a few long highway treks including towing a U-Haul 6x12 cargo trailer (packed to the brim) through the Rocky Mountains. I've also done a little bit of unskilled off-roading using 4-low and diff locks.

I've had no issues whatsoever with the diffs/transfer case since the fluid change (or before). I've also had my mechanic look at various driveline components thermally because I had a consistent "shhh" noise and there were no notable hot spots. The noise turned out to be a rotor backing plate that was contacting the backside of one of my brake rotors.

So I guess I would recommend the fluids that I went with - at least so far.

Hope this helps!

 

Just an interesting side note I just accidentally stumble upon, but might be relevant to the "aftermarket vs oem oil" discussion:

https://www.fuchs.com/uk/en/company...s/news-entry/320-tps-selects-fuchs-lubricants-uk-for-all-new-quantum-oil-range/

According to this Fuchs (Germany) will be (well, in retrospect is, from 2017/2018 on), and supposedly has been also in the past, a "first fill provider to the factory" to VW, in the UK anyway. The previous oil company supplying lubricants to VW UK was Castrol.

Now, VW has no Touareg assembly line in the UK, so, in this regard this might be irrelevant per se, but the above fact still might give us a clue (if not a confirmation) on whether Castrol or Fuchs might have internal/insider knowledge of any possible special formulations used in VW lubricants, and could produce equivalent if not better "aftermarket" replacement products for them - provided, they're not selling the exact same product to VW anyway than to the general public.

Obviously this doesn't mean that any let's say Fuchs or Castrol 75W90 gear oil will be equivalent to the factory fill used in Touareg differentials, but I'm pretty confident that if Fuchs or Castrol claim on one of their product labels that it meets a particular VW spec that's supposedly used and required in that differential for fluid replacements, then in fact Fuchs and Castrol is most likely selling to you the very same product that VW would also sell to you as OEM, albeit at a very different price.

Just my to cents.

 

I also only use FUCHS TITAN GT1 PRO C-3 SAE 5W-30 XTL Oil in my 3.0L TDI. CATA.
Fuchs 4400 in trans (may use Motul Multi-ATF)
OEM front, rear diff and transfer case.

 

Another possibly useful addition. The Porsche Cayenne (which has essentially the same transmission, axles and transfer case as the Touareg, albeit the exact part numbers slightly differing) official Technical Manual has a "Additional maintenance every 240,000 km/160,000 mls or every 16 years" chapter (which Touareg Technical Manuals don't have, as their maintenance schedule ends at 180,000 kms max), which lists - amongst a few others - the following tasks to be carried out at said mileage:

All-wheel final drive: replace oil Þ Page 114 'Changing oil for all-wheel final drive'
Rear final drive: replace oil Þ Page 104 'Changing oil for rear final drive'
Transfer box: replace oil Þ Page 99 'Changing oil for transfer box'
Manual transmission: replace oil
Tiptronic transmission: change ATF Þ Page 90 'Replacing ATF'
and ATF filter Þ Page 107 'Removing and installing ATF filter'


So, I guess there we have our actual answer on the question when transmission/transfer box/differential fluid changes are due. This also means that up to 240.000 kms / 160.000 miles it should be pretty safe to open these boxes and replace their fluids without having to worry about the "too old to change" problem. Which, as already stated, and based on my extensive research in this topic, I believe to be more something people or even maybe mechanics tend to blame as a convenient culprit for when in reality they mess up the fluid change procedure and/or use the wrong fluid, and the transmission starts acting up afterwards, without that (ie. the fluid having been "too old" to change) actually being the real reason for the problems encountered.

But even if I'm totally wrong about this, and there's indeed a reasonable mileage/age after the trans fluid shouldn't be flushed, because of reasons, even then that critical mileage has to be obviously way beyond 240.000 kms / 160.000 miles, at least in the case of the Cayennes and Touaregs.

 

Another possibly useful addition. The Porsche Cayenne (which has essentially the same transmission, axles and transfer case as the Touareg, albeit the exact part numbers slightly differing) official Technical Manual has a "Additional maintenance every 240,000 km/160,000 mls or every 16 years" chapter (which Touareg Technical Manuals don't have, as their maintenance schedule ends at 180,000 kms max), which lists - amongst a few others - the following tasks to be carried out at said mileage:

All-wheel final drive: replace oil Þ Page 114 'Changing oil for all-wheel final drive'
Rear final drive: replace oil Þ Page 104 'Changing oil for rear final drive'
Transfer box: replace oil Þ Page 99 'Changing oil for transfer box'
Manual transmission: replace oil
Tiptronic transmission: change ATF Þ Page 90 'Replacing ATF'
and ATF filter Þ Page 107 'Removing and installing ATF filter'

That is interesting indeed.
What is the highest milage Touareg around these forums? Does anyone keep\maintain theirs into the 200k+ range?
It seems that most users only seem to drive them into the 100k range before unloading them. As they are a premium vehicle, I intend to crack 200k before considering a change.

So back to fluids.... hurry up and change them and report back with results\experiences. I'd rather not stress about potentially needing to do mine at 75-80k if I can safely postpone it until 100-120k instead. :grin2:

 

I don't plan on unloading mine for example. I will keep it for another 100K if possible. But this is a true statement above.

Most unload theirs around 5 yrs or 100K miles.

 

I used OEM fluids for diffs and transfer case with Mobil 3309 for the transmission. Have drained and filled the transmission a number of times now and shifting super smooth.

 

Another relevant articles with a lot of useful information, including typical failure reasons of the transmission, albeit in Russian. Translations are a little bit rough, but readable.

https://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?u=https://www.drive2.ru/l/3856417&tl=en
https://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?u=https://www.drive2.ru/l/4186932&tl=en

In case you're wondering what "razdatke" is which Google fails to translate: it's the transfer case/box.

The guy also has blog posts on some other issues he encountered with his Touareg, all similarly detailed, so, it might be worth to look at those, too, if interested.

 

TurboABA I recently had my 2009 Touareg transmission fluid and filter changed by factory trained VW technician and we used the Meyle filter and gasket kit along with new drain and fill plug washers. I had him install Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic which if it meets your specs is the best ATF on the market. There are many of the local VW owners using this fluid with no problems reported by anyone so far. Some vehicles have 60 to 80K kilometers since changes were done.
More on topic of your particular post this is the first transmission service this Touareg ever had and it had 416,000km when the service was done, fluid was slightly dark but not burnt and the filter was clean as could be (which it should be unless there is an issue inside the transmission)
I've been using Valvoline MaxLIfe ATF in vehicles since it came on the market and so far have never had any trouble.

 

More on topic of your particular post this is the first transmission service this Touareg ever had and it had 416,000km when the service was done, fluid was slightly dark but not burnt and the filter was clean as could be (which it should be unless there is an issue inside the transmission)

I must've missed this post. So your unite went 400k on the OEM fluid? :surprise:

 

"Best transmission oil on the market", "no problems reported by anyone so far", "meyle filter" "fluid slightly dark" "never had any trouble"

These are all phrases that bother me when folks believe in a product so much they can't even see past the bottle. They mean nothing. "so far never had any problems", well Ok. So I suppose it's good? This is a very subjective comment not backed up by anything such as science or even an oil analysis. This oil is probably fine but I doubt anything anymore special than anything else out there. I don't recommend oils. But I do recommend using OEM parts. Oils turn dark after use. I have used OEM fluid, Fuchs 4400 and Motul Multi-ATF in this transmission. I also change every 40K miles. Anything with the spec for this Aisin transmission will be fine. Vavoline may be a full synthetic but I highly doubt it's the best on the Market. That's a big claim for high mileage ATF fluid.

I noticed nothing different between all 3 oils, OEM, Fuchs to Motul. OEM is probably made by Fuchs anyway. Motul has a better oil overall, 100% Ester synthetic including it's additive package. Vavoline is most likely only 70% max synthetic. If I were to use a ATF off the shelf, it would be Mobil 1.

Folks, this oil will be fine but I would not be dumping your OEM (fuchs or other) for it. Also use OEM parts. Meyle is not a high quality parts company. I only use OEM parts on this car. Higher cost but higher quality compared to aftermarket unless the aftermarket is the OEM part such as TRW or Lemforder (German made parts).

 

alfissimo As a licensed automotive service technician of 38 years with many of those in BMW, Mercedes & Maserati dealers all I have to say is everyone is entitled to their opinion. I use Mobil 1 in my engine but my personal experience with Valvoline MaxLife ATF is that is is as good as Mobil if not better. Like I said just my opinion. My subjectivity comes from years of experience with the product in many applications, I'm clearly able to "see past the bottle" sir.
I also spent a number of my years at an OEM Japanese manufacturer head office testing garage and be careful how confident you are on your OEM references as these can be different based on the manufacturing location , especially fluids and filters. Many OEM automotive companies will source these near their factories to reduce cost and they are sourced based on specifications that meet or exceed OEM. (same as the aftermarket parts)
There are parts on any vehicle that I would absolutely not use anything but OEM, however filters, fluids, brakes and tires are not in that group.
Bottom line is 'To each their own'

 

Every is entitled to their opinion for sure.

I try to avoid oil conversations as much as I can. I just do not think stating "have had no issues yet" is something that can back up a product and gives folks a false idea of the product performance and quality. Sure it may be the best oil but these days most oils are "good" in the synthetic range with a well known brand and to the spec needed. it will do it's job.

I also have many years of experience with Alfa Romeo. I am very careful on OEM references. As noted, for example, OEM fluid is most likely FUCHS. A lot of OEM parts are not made by the Manufacturer of the vehicle. Most of us know this. I have sold parts for over 20 years. I do not use OEM filters from Alfa Romeo anymore due to the fact they are not made in China. OEM oil filters for the Touareg are MANN or MAHLE. I'd buy the filter in there box any day of the week without an issue. I'd also buy Pagid pads in their box. Tires? Well never thought of those as an OEM part. Fluids, well depends on the car. In some higher end Audi's for example, I will use OEM only. Period. In an Alfa Romeo, I will use what we know works well and has not caused any failures to our customers. I use Selenia oils mostly or Motul. Do I know what is the best on the market? NO! I am not sure anyone does. It's all opinion some based on experience some nothing but brand loyalty.

Choosing the proper oil is key. If you don't know, choose OEM but I hesitate to ever say an oil is the best on the market. That's a HUGE claim that cannot be backed up. Your experience vs. mine or anyone else's is also very subjective. We have no idea how good or bad a technician you are or I am for that matter. You may have this experience noted above but it may not give you the expertise of an engineer and chemist in the oil industry specific to engines and transmissions.

I don't claim to know what oil is the best nor the best oil for this Aisin transmission. The safe thing is always OEM or even ASIN ATF for this transmission. Again this is why I never recommend oils or get involved in oil conversations as much as possible.

To Each their own works. Buy what you can afford, make sure it has the proper spec and change it when needed. Use OEM parts unless you know the manufacturer and can purchase it in their box for less. If you don't know, choose OEM, always! No confusion or concern with issues.

 

I used Valvoline MaxLife MV ATF and an ATP filter kit.
40,000km later, still great!

 

Well VW do say the box is sealed for life!

Perhaps they are right and the rest of us that promote regular transmission fluid changes are wrong!

 

I hope I understood that correctly. I'm not sure that I would feel comfortable leaving the OEM fluid in there for lifetime, but I would certainly be OK leaving it for 160k if there are people who leave it for 400k and don't have any issues.

 

I changed a ladys mk4 jetta tdi at work with around 200 on the clock because the tranny shop said she needed a new trans. So i said let me try doing a fluid change before you junk the car because the ALH ran like a top. Did the fluid change and shes been running strong ever since. It shifts slowly into 3rd and 4th but at least it shifts whereas before 3rd was rough and 4th wouldnt shift. Amazing how black that trans fluid was that came out. Was damn near sludge.

 

I have used, with great results and success, Valvoline Max Life synthetic ATF in both our t-regs after valvebody rebuilds. It's cheapest at Walmart vs online -from what I've seen.
You'll never be able to drain out whats in the torque converter so after a couple days driving, it wouldn't hurt to drain again and refill at those prices.
This is what Ive done and have had no issues.

Contacted Valvoline as well and they've confirmed their ATF meet/exceeds OE standards.

fwiw

 

You'll never be able to drain out whats in the torque converter so after a couple days driving, it wouldn't hurt to drain again and refill at those prices.
This is what Ive done and have had no issues.


fwiw

Check this link. I'm doing the same thing soon.

https://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/...g.com/forums/f73/t3-transmission-flush-idea-with-wonderful-drawings-173138.html

I'll be using Ravenol for the tranny and OEM for the transfercase.

 

I actually ran Motul 8100X Specific this time. I wanted to see how it ran. Will probably go back to FUCHS as it is easier to obtain. No significant difference, I felt it may have ran a bit smoother but I could be making that up.

 

417,154 at the time of the service to be exact. This Touareg also has never had any chain work done and it is quiet as a mouse.

 

Miles's or KMs?

 

I will await the pending disaster you speak of. It is apparent from my short time on this this forum that experience and knowledge have very little value here. The fact that this engine slows absolutley none of the signs of chain failure tells me to go with what i know. I know well maintained engines are capable of high mileage. When I feel or hear or get indication the is a problem i will react not before.

 

I'm glad I found this thread, I've spent the day planning out my scheduled maintenance from 140k to 200k miles, as the manual stops at 130k miles. I've put the replacement of the fluid in the final drives, transfer case, and transmission in at 160k miles. I'll probably source all my fluids from idparts.com. Drive more, worry less.