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[QUOTE = "Winfried, Post: 2090361, Mitglied: 229615"]
[QUOTE = "ToolmanJohn, Beitrag: 2088345, Mitglied: 57593"]
Holen Sie sich sich eine blaue OX Gewichtsverteilungskupplung mit 750-Pfund-Stangen. Sway- und Level-Trailer-Problem festgestellt. Es ist so einfach zu sehen und zu schließen und zu vereinfachen, den Anhänger in der Mitte zu widersetzen, zu unterscheiden, war das Zugfahrzeug tut. Es ist nicht reaktiv, es ist proaktiv. Es gibt andere Systeme, aber ich habe meine Andersen. Und ich kann damit verbunden gehört. Nicht alle WD-Systeme betreffen eine Sicherung.

Stellen Sie sicher sicher, dass Ihre Anhängerreifen ST (Special Trailer) sind und einen bestimmten Kaltdruck haben !!! Wenn die Trailer-Stufe maximal 50 psi beträgt, machen Sie es SO !!! Mein eigener Besitzer ist zweiachsig, er hat ein sehr stabiles Verhalten, selbst bei 10% Zungengewicht von 500 Pfund, war ist ist. Aber die Reifen sind 15 Zoll, Lastbereich E, 80 psi kalt. Sehr steife Seitensicht. Fügen Sie Sie möchten 5 psi zum Kaltdruck Ihre Treg REAR-Reifen gehört. Wenn das heißt 39 psi sind (wie bei mir), dann auf 44 psi aufpumpen.

War die Beschleunigung angeht, ist es das, war es wirklich ist. 0-65 sind keine 9 Sekunden, aber es kommt zu kommen, es muss nicht schnell sein, wenn es gehörtleppt wird. Nein, danke.

Warum hast du dein anderes WD verkauft, hat es nicht funktioniert?
Get a Blue OX weight distribution hitch (adjustable shank height), with 750 pound bars. Sway and level trailer problem solved. It is SO easy to hook up and release, and simply tries to force the trailer to be on center, regardless of what the tow vehicle is doing. It is not reactive, it's pro active. There are other systems, but I sold my Andersen WD hitch and went to the Blue OX, because of how easy to use (connect and disconnect is just plain easy). And I can back up with it connected. Not all WD systems allow backing up.

Further, make CERTAIN that your trailer tires are ST (Special Trailer), and at MAXIMUM cold pressures!!! If the trailer tier is 50 psi MAX, make it SO!!! My own trailer is dual axle, it has very stable behavior, even at 10% tongue weight of 500 pounds, which is typical. But the tires are 15 inch, load range E, 80 psi cold. Very stiff side walls. Also add 5 psi to your Treg REAR tires cold pressure. If that's normally 39 psi (like mine) then inflate to 44 psi.

As far as acceleration, it is what it is, for real. 0-65 is not 9 seconds, but it sure gets there anyway, it doesn't need to be speedy when towing no thanks.

why did you sell your other WD, didn't it work?
 

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Any brand WD hitch with sway control is better than none. I only bought my Blue Ox after a lot of research. It is massively adjustable for different tow vehicle hitch heights. I will never need a different shank. 11 holes spaced 1-1/4 inch apart, and can be flipped over, that's a ton of adjustability. The Andersen WD unit I had was NOT easy to install and disconnect. I sold it to a fellow who had a very light small camper, the Andersen works great on those. Regardless of what trailer makers are putting in the tires (Nitrogen or Air) I always use plain old atmosphere to top off. It's worked for ages in all kinds of tires. RACE CARS are when nitrogen improves safety. So I would never spring for the additional cost of nitrogen when it will never provide the benefits while on the road. (Disclaimer: My trailer tires came with Nitrogen and green cap too- Whoop-dee-doo.....).

Yes, most of us have been through the experience of Pirelli Scorpions. Their great when new, then wear out fast a suck for noise and vibration. I really have not thought about the Copper tires (XL load rated etc) I had put on several years ago. They ride nice. I have been satisfied with them.

As far as trailer tires, the reviews and opinions are unreal online. Most folks hate Chinese brands, calling them China bombs. Quite a few have decided that Goodyear Endurance trailer tires are the best, but they are a new model tire, and expensive. My trailer came with 4 WestLake (Chinese made) tires, load range E (80 psi cold). Have had no issues and they still look good after 3 years, and approx 15,000 miles. Maybe next year, I will try the Endurance. One of the worst catastrophic failures is tire delamination of the tread on trailer tires, It can wreck/obliterate a trailer fender, trailer wall, brake component wiring. It is far more devastating to a traditional stick and wood constructed trailer. I have seen some miserable pictures of highway blowouts that caused $$$$ in damage from a sub $100 trailer tire. Ouch.
What is your trailer length/weight? I have a 24' (27.9 tongue to bumper) trailer on order. It's 5400# empty, 6900 GVW. I have already bought the Andersen 3350, but am in the 30 day return window for it. Given the size of my trailer, and based on your post alone, I'm thinking I should go for the BXW0750 instead. Any chance of having a chat on the phone?
 

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What is your trailer length/weight? I have a 24' (27.9 tongue to bumper) trailer on order. It's 5400# empty, 6900 GVW. I have already bought the Andersen 3350, but am in the 30 day return window for it. Given the size of my trailer, and based on your post alone, I'm thinking I should go for the BXW0750 instead. Any chance of having a chat on the phone?
hello, thank you for your interest. I have a trail cruiser with me
26´ length bumper to hitch. it weighs 4000 pd when empty. the hitch dry weight is 300 pd (loaded and with the Husky 32216 Center Line TS 500 pd). the GVWR is 5870 pd. the husky is very heavy and puts a lot of force on the vehicle. I'm a little skeptical about that. so far i had an ecoboost F150, it didn't matter. I sold that and bought the treg. the treg is more suitable for everyday use. There was always something wrong with the truck and it was always several hundred dollars for the repair.
 

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With WD hitch and sway bar included. Came out to exactly 280 kilos or wait for it.......616 lbs.
You're probably including about 65-75 lbs for the WD & SB stuff.... so your TW is more than likely ~ 525-550 for the TT.
Just for reference, I run 750 lbs bars in the above setup (I have not measured TW), and you can see my stance (or lack of squat). Even if you're only running a 500 lb system, I would expect it to work fine as long as you adjust it properly.
 

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You're probably including about 65-75 lbs for the WD & SB stuff.... so your TW is more than likely ~ 525-550 for the TT.
Just for reference, I run 750 lbs bars in the above setup (I have not measured TW), and you can see my stance (or lack of squat). Even if you're only running a 500 lb system, I would expect it to work fine as long as you adjust it properly.
I actually weighed it with the hitch and bars sitting on the tongue. Eaze Lift with 800lb bars. It all works beautifully. A very slight nose down attitude. I've towed it approx 21000 km in the last year. All landscapes imaginable. Possibly off to Yukon in a few weeks. Should be fun.
 
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