[Imuhagh]

V10 turbo problem continues: left side control module was almost permanently frozen until I cleaned both MAP sensors. Both turbos worked for one evening and no smoke but lots of oil in boost hoses. After cleaning back to normal and but started to smoke next day and turbo problem intermittently until 2nd day and it's now stuck closed. I took some measuring block values (didn't have time to log it when driving yet. These are readings. Couldn't open MAF sensor to clean. Going to get MAF and MAP cleaned, intercooler drained and pcv cleaned this weekend. Any suggestions?

By the way oil was due to long idle at VW (half tank of fuel spent idling) and faulty flexi fuel sensor.

History: problem started when battery was low. Control module only cut out when battery under 12.5v. New batteries, bad mechanic, left car idle with faulty flesi fuel sensor and white smoke (unburnt diesel smell) for half a tank. Since then turbo control #2 mostly out and #1 intermittently. #2 control fault clears but returns even when engine not running leading me to think it might be electrical/ sensor related.

Other (constant) fault: Kessy but I have car hooked to CTEK 4.3 charge maintainer most of the time (and every night)

Left side (no fault in turbo control module)
Atmospheric pressure 765 mbar (2,400m)

At idle (609 rpm) actual boost 754.8, specified 765, mass air flow 325 mg/ st

At rpm 2,300 (car parked) specified boost 918 mbar, actual boost 703.8 mbar, mass airflow 305 mg/ st

At rpm 3,717, specified boost 1040 mbar, actual boost 673.2 mass air flow 300 mg/ st

Right side (turbo control module showing faulty)

At idle 609 rpm actual boost 765.0, mass air flow 320 mg/st

At rpm 2,772 specified boost 969 mbar, actual boost 714 mbar, air flow 315 mg/ st

At rpm 4,032 specified boost 999.6 mbar, actual boost 734.4 mbar, mass air flow 320 mg/ st.

Also: any suggestions for oil catch cans? Will put a hose from PCV to atmosphere, plugging air intake side hose soon but afraid of getting unfiltered air in crankcase

 

[lgibson]

Make sure actuator rods are lubed. Reach with a dab of grease (VW prescribes Hot Bolt Paste) on a welding rod. Are intake hoses leaking turbo pressure?

 

[Imuhagh]

Actuators greased and moving well. No leaks on intake: not even the oil that's in hoses and intercooler seeping out

 

[Imuhagh]

Latest: seemed like an electric fault, also with charging of new batteries. Found an ex-VW mechanic/ electrician. A fuse on a smaller cable from rear battery and its holder were badly rusted. Cleaned rust, better for a while, back to normal next day. Going back soon. Fuse was good: littelfuse 250 Amp. Not sure what this does or if rusty connections can be a problem. Checked all relays: good. Mechanic says ECU sometimes takes power from rear battery

 

[lgibson]

As mentioned, rear battery is used in starting process. Sounds like you have found the problem but perhaps not yet fixed? Log your voltage drop during startup. About 2" in you will see the low point. 9.5V seems to be acceptable. Anything lower not so much.

 

[Imuhagh]

Sorry for the delay, had numerous small problems to deal with.
1. Voltage drop--no noticable drop within first 2" of start up, stayed above 11V.
2. Turbo cutting out--solved. ECU 2 mounting brackets were broken, ECU knocked around with shocks causing turbo cut. Fixed temporarily by attaching ECU to mounting bracket with RTV silicon (turbo would only cut out on extremem bumps/ off-roading) and now got new mouting brackets, problem solved!
3. Still waiting to fix my Kessy before deciding on other electric faults--all happening under dashboard: ventilator fan speed low, constantly gives "open or short to ground" warning and at times, a couple of other ones. At times telephone mute cuts off, and sometimes Terminal 15 (ignition switch) voltage drops below 12 even when batteries are above 12.5.
Otherwise running smooth and beautiful. Thanks for all the support.